Well I was but only because I knew I was trying to tighten it much tighter than spec, simply to see if it would actually tighten up the gasket, which it did not. So continuing to tighten it was unnecessary.
CK5
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Atl-atl's K5 Blazer Four Wheel Camper "The Crawlin Cabin" documentation thread!
- Thread starter Atl-atl
- Start date
Alright, pulled the flywheel and all actually looks well in there. The added right stuff black definitely seemed to seal up the rear of the oil pan gasket. I took a super close look at the rear main seal to make sure all is well and it seems to be. Its one of the "reverse lip" styles where the seal actually faces towards the trans. Ive seen quit a few threads on various website where people are actually installing these backwards so the lip faces torwards the crank. Specifically on forced induction vehicles, Im guessing because they have higher crank case pressures. Speaking of which, I think after everything was buttoned up yesterday and I got a slight spray of oil, it must have been crank case pressure squeezed some oil out of the rear main but then it didnt leak anymore after that, including over night. So I think Im good to reassemble everything. I just need to figure out how to vent my crank case. Ive started researching but its really hard to find any info from people with aftermarket sheetmetal intake manifolds. Every google search leads to problems with the factory intake manifold and factory pvc system.
Blue arrow could be used for an inline pcv, Possibly to red arrow. IDK what red arrow for sure but I would expect it to be manifold vacuum port. Only other item need will freash filtered air into crank case. You could machine a hole in the valley plate, use a -an bulkhead connector some type of braided line to another connector on the filtered side of your air cleaner.
The MAP sensor is in the spot where your red arrow points, im running speed density not MAF. Im thinking about running an inline PCV valve where your blue arrow points and having the hose run into the dirty side of a catch can and then running hose from the clean side of the catch can to the vacuum port on the TB. Unfortunately my TB does not have a port for clean air so Im looking into how to get fresh air.
Although since Im running speed density I dont really have to put the clean air source into the intake tract, I could just run a small filter with a check valve off the passenger side valve cover right? Or will this still mess with my tune?
The passenger valve cover, is an acceptable location. Needs to filtered air. Check valve not necessarily needed, but if you did use one it would need to be very low opening pressure.
Question how would oil collected in catch can return to crank case ?
Another thought, where are you tapping the vacuum sorce for hvac and brake booster?
Question how would oil collected in catch can return to crank case ?
Another thought, where are you tapping the vacuum sorce for hvac and brake booster?
Im guessing check valve is not needed because the vacuum pulling at the driver valve cover would keep air/oil mist from coming back out the breather on passenger valve cover? I would simply dump the oil from the catch can. Im expecting it to not be a ton of oil that would require some kind of return line. In fact I dont think Ive ever seen a catch can setup with a return that dumps the oil back into the motor. Isnt it supposed to catch not only oil but also moisture and "gunk" so you dont want it going back to the oil pan anyway?
This pic shows the basic routing I would use. Only difference being the clean air supply would just be atmosphere in the engine bay, not from the intake tube.
Vacuum for HVAC and brake booster is coming straight off the intake manifold. There are 4 ports on the underside for hooking up anything you like.
So 1 of those under side ports could be used for the PCV vacuum. I would need to see how the internals of the catch can are arranged, to help with proper routing of in and out. Green looks good would need to be 1/2" ID or so for fresh air
I was planning to just put a small section of hose and breather filter onto the nipple coming off the passenger valve cover. That nipple is only about 1/4" inside diameter, which is the same size as where I would put the PCV valve on the drivers valve cover nipple. If thats not enough I can use one of the breathers that you screw into the oil fill port like the picture below.
you could use both of the passenger side as inlet, with a Y. That should allow enough air to enter the crank case. Is a balance act, you want to be able to supply surplus air entering so there is no hard vacuum on the crank case. If enough fresh filter aired isn't supplied the PCV vacuum will test all the seals and gaskets, the weakest will allow unfiltered air to pass into the crank case.
The oil fill cap filter would do the job. Not sure it would be my 1st choice. When the engine is shut off after running as it cools the crank case will vent from that filter, you will smell it. Out doors not so much in an enclosed garage you'll notice. Using the air filter inlet system for fresh crank case air contains the venting, between the air box and the intake manifold. Not as noticeable.
The oil fill cap filter would do the job. Not sure it would be my 1st choice. When the engine is shut off after running as it cools the crank case will vent from that filter, you will smell it. Out doors not so much in an enclosed garage you'll notice. Using the air filter inlet system for fresh crank case air contains the venting, between the air box and the intake manifold. Not as noticeable.
I grabbed a catch can, inline pcv valve and breather filter today and got it all set up. For now the fresh air is just going in through the 3/8" nipple on the passenger side valve cover. Hopefully this is sufficient(not sure how to tell other than another oil leak happening) otherwise Ill grab an oil filler filter assembly. As for smell, its not really a concern, the truck will live either parked at my shop or outside when its at the house because it doesnt fit in the garage. Truck runs but its still running rich, I think due to the lack of a tune. So its slowly fowling the plugs like it did before but it all seems to be working and not leaking. Next week the trans will go back in and Ill hopefully be able to get the truck to a tuner so I can finally drive it again!
Made a little bracket to mount the catch can. It came with its own mounting brackets and I just bent some aluminum to mount that to one of the bolts from my accessory brackets. Its just a cheap thing from Auto Zone but its pretty nice, internally baffled and has a 50 micron filter. The vacuum hose runs from the throttle body to the "OUT" of the catch can.
The little breather filter is just sitting there for now with 3/8" line running to the nipple coming off the passenger valve cover.
The PCV valve is in between the driver side valve cover nipple and the "IN" of the catch can.
Well, this update is not a good one. I got the truck idling pretty good, but it takes a while to start. When I try to drive it around the block the cat gets so hot it glows orange, it backfires and stumbles and wont take any throttle. The Fitech handheld told me there are P0204 and P0208 errors which is some kind of injector issue in cylinder 4 and 8. I gave up and took it to a shop. Luckily I found an authorized Fitech dealer/installer close by, they are super cool and of course they love the Blazer. They've had the truck for about a week and have been able to make some progress but they found quite a few issues mostly with the fitech system wiring harness. For starters, the O2 sensor pigtails were mislabeled L-R and the injector harness was mislabeled L-R. The injector harness was also installed incorrectly(by yours truly) front to back(its not labeled F-R so how could someone know?) so everything was firing incorrectly, this might explain the unburnt fuel in the cylinders after shutting off the engine. Once that was figured out they said the truck fires up and idles better but it still has issues and doesnt like to drive. They tested the injectors which are working correctly so now they think there is a problem with the wiring in the injector harness. They are in touch with Fitech about a number of these issues. Hopefully Fitech will cover some of the labor since it appears a lot of these issues are/were caused by the incorrectly labeled harness parts and potentially faulty harness. Im not happy about this but at least the truck is in good hands now.
Yikes, sounds like a bit of a nightmare scenario! I hope it gets sorted.
Tell them this forum loves this truck and they need to get this straightened out! We need happy updates on this rig.
If we have to pull this forum over and get out, there's going to be trouble...........
If we have to pull this forum over and get out, there's going to be trouble...........
Well the truck is finally running and driving great!! Ive had it back for about a week now and have put a ton of miles on it already. I hate to admit it but most of the issues were my own fault. Basically a bunch of the wiring was incorrect, as laid out in my previous post. The biggest issues being the mislabeled O2 sensors and injector harness. Turns out the injector harness is not part of the Fitech kit, its something that I sourced on my own. Typically this Fitech harness is installed on a stock intake manifold and injectors/harness...so yeah. The fact that the stock replacement harness was not labeled, front to back OR side to side, is ridiculous. Once that was figured out, the wiring was reinstalled correctly and new plugs were put in to replace the fouled ones(for the third time) everything came together. This was all figured out by the shop, not myself. They also did a good bit of tuning on the Fitech system. The truck is much happier being told its a 6.0 liter with 30lb injectors. Apparently having to input "incorrect" data is common with Fitech and its simply a matter of knowing how to adjust things to make it run well. Anyway, Im just happy its finally driving like it should! The shop also rerouted my PCV system, moved my brake booster vacuum line to a bigger port, changed a couple HVAC fittings and some other small stuff. Sometimes it pays to have experienced eyes give things a once-over. As soon as I got the truck back I swapped out the stock AC condenser for a modern one to work with the new compressor. I just need to make an appointment to get new lines made and have the system filled.
Im ecstatic.
Dont mind the wacky stock temp gauge, its not currently hooked up so I think its getting a random incorrect signal from the printed circuit on the back of the cluster. According to the Fitech handheld it runs at a steady 195 while cruising, 205 at idle(its hot here in Phoenix) and the fans kick on as they should. I need to get a variety of driving videos. Its so loud and its so powerful hahaha. Its insanely fast compared to the stock motor. The only thing slowing it down is the NV4500, not the easiest trans to shift quickly, especially with a 2 foot long shifter!
Im ecstatic.
Dont mind the wacky stock temp gauge, its not currently hooked up so I think its getting a random incorrect signal from the printed circuit on the back of the cluster. According to the Fitech handheld it runs at a steady 195 while cruising, 205 at idle(its hot here in Phoenix) and the fans kick on as they should. I need to get a variety of driving videos. Its so loud and its so powerful hahaha. Its insanely fast compared to the stock motor. The only thing slowing it down is the NV4500, not the easiest trans to shift quickly, especially with a 2 foot long shifter!
Glad you got your issues ironed out. Sounds great and getting some validation miles on it to find any more teething issues will only make it better.
As far as the shifting goes it’s still better than a 465! Though I’ve had my eye on a Core shifter for a 4500 for a while. He’s never got them in stock though. I’ve got a buddy with a Core shifter for a nv3500 in a TJ wrangler and it’s nice and tight and shorter throw too.
Check it out.
core-shifters.com
As far as the shifting goes it’s still better than a 465! Though I’ve had my eye on a Core shifter for a 4500 for a while. He’s never got them in stock though. I’ve got a buddy with a Core shifter for a nv3500 in a TJ wrangler and it’s nice and tight and shorter throw too.
Check it out.
Core Shifter w/ chrome stick for GM C/K 2500 & 3500 : 1995-2000 w/ HD 5 speed (NV4500)
*** Pics are of a similar shifter but the NV4500 shifter has no lower pivot bushing and the lower ball has flats on each side. *** Short throw shifter kit for OE replacement on 5 speed manual trans in: 1995-2000 Chevy & GMC C/K HD full-size trucks 1500 series w/ diesel only 2500 series w/ GVWR >...
core-shifters.com
Glad to hear you got it running good. You put a lot of work into it. Your truck looks really good too! I like the color.
Ok since the truck is running and driving I decided to start tackling some projects that Ive been putting off for years. Also hopefully to get things done in time for Overland Expo West which is coming up in a few weeks. I still need to pull the t-case and reseal it but Im still mad enough about it leaking in the first place that Im just letting is drip on the ground for a little while longer. 
First up is the rear bumper. Ive been meaning to replace the crooked, chrome stock bumper since the day I bought this truck for the first time back in 2020. Ive been itching to really put the new welder to work and last week I did just that. I had previously purchased a latch and hinge setup from 4XInnovations for this project and was glad I kept it because it worked perfectly. I used 1/4" plate for the frame plates and 3/16" everywhere else. I think it turned out great!
The tire carrier mount is 1/4" wall 2x3 and the base of the swing is 1/4" wall 2x4. The extra structure on the swing is intended to mount jerry cans and a folding table. Its WAY overkill 1/4" wall 2x2 but I had it laying around so I just used it. The swing wound up weighing more than the bumper hahaha. The extra receiver on the swing is for a bike rack. I have a similar setup on my tacoma and it works perfectly so I had to do it again.
The 4XInnovations hinge and latch are super beefy and use spring loaded pins to hold it in a variety of open and closed positions.
I added some internal bracing for the receiver and welded all around it. I dont think Ill every tow anything, the truck isnt wired for a trailer, but Ill use it as a recovery point. Everything is welded on both sides. The "outside" of the bumper is welded and then ground smooth so it looks nice. My welds arent pretty enough to leave alone hahaha. The "inside" is fully welded and the hitch and frame plates are welded on both sides as well. There are currently 4, 1/2" holes per frame plate for mounting. 2 of them are existing holes in the frame that I was able to reuse. 2 are new. I cut off the bottom ~2" of the frame horns and boxed the frame in with the bumper for extra strength. I also have the option to use the 2 mounting holes on each frame horn if I decide to bump up to 6 mounting holes per side.
Anyone familiar with a K5 Blazer frame will see where I cut off the bottom portion of the horn.
I added 1/4" plate to shore it up once I decided on the shape of the bumper.
Then I started boxing everything in.
First up is the rear bumper. Ive been meaning to replace the crooked, chrome stock bumper since the day I bought this truck for the first time back in 2020. Ive been itching to really put the new welder to work and last week I did just that. I had previously purchased a latch and hinge setup from 4XInnovations for this project and was glad I kept it because it worked perfectly. I used 1/4" plate for the frame plates and 3/16" everywhere else. I think it turned out great!
The tire carrier mount is 1/4" wall 2x3 and the base of the swing is 1/4" wall 2x4. The extra structure on the swing is intended to mount jerry cans and a folding table. Its WAY overkill 1/4" wall 2x2 but I had it laying around so I just used it. The swing wound up weighing more than the bumper hahaha. The extra receiver on the swing is for a bike rack. I have a similar setup on my tacoma and it works perfectly so I had to do it again.
The 4XInnovations hinge and latch are super beefy and use spring loaded pins to hold it in a variety of open and closed positions.
I added some internal bracing for the receiver and welded all around it. I dont think Ill every tow anything, the truck isnt wired for a trailer, but Ill use it as a recovery point. Everything is welded on both sides. The "outside" of the bumper is welded and then ground smooth so it looks nice. My welds arent pretty enough to leave alone hahaha. The "inside" is fully welded and the hitch and frame plates are welded on both sides as well. There are currently 4, 1/2" holes per frame plate for mounting. 2 of them are existing holes in the frame that I was able to reuse. 2 are new. I cut off the bottom ~2" of the frame horns and boxed the frame in with the bumper for extra strength. I also have the option to use the 2 mounting holes on each frame horn if I decide to bump up to 6 mounting holes per side.
Anyone familiar with a K5 Blazer frame will see where I cut off the bottom portion of the horn.
I added 1/4" plate to shore it up once I decided on the shape of the bumper.
Then I started boxing everything in.
This was the point I decided to add a small taper to the corners. I think it turned out pretty slick without being too fancy or modern looking.
Frame is boxed in now.
Deciding how I wanted to mount the swing turned out to be pretty easy. Time consuming to get it right the first time and make the mount for the hinge beefy enough but Im happy with it.
Frame is boxed in now.
Deciding how I wanted to mount the swing turned out to be pretty easy. Time consuming to get it right the first time and make the mount for the hinge beefy enough but Im happy with it.
Initially the back of the bumper was completely open. When the tire swing was "out" it was flexing the bumper pretty badly so I decided to add a brace directly underneath the hinge, where Ive drawn a yellow line here. Forgot to take a pic.
And then I boxed in that end of the bumper. Only issue here is that 2 of my mounting points are inside of that area. I decided to weld nuts onto the back side of the frame plate. In theory this will work fine. If I ever have an issue and can no longer use those bolts Ill just add mounting holes elsewhere. The flex is basically gone when you yank on the tire carrier. In fact, you can see the frame flex but not the bumper so Im calling it good.
I went with a 6" depth so the top of the bumper will act as a step to get into the camper. I dropped it all off at powdercoat last Friday and its supposed to be done this Friday. They are doing a slight texture so there is grip when stepping on the bumper.
All done. Now I just wait for the call from the powder coater.
And then I boxed in that end of the bumper. Only issue here is that 2 of my mounting points are inside of that area. I decided to weld nuts onto the back side of the frame plate. In theory this will work fine. If I ever have an issue and can no longer use those bolts Ill just add mounting holes elsewhere. The flex is basically gone when you yank on the tire carrier. In fact, you can see the frame flex but not the bumper so Im calling it good.
I went with a 6" depth so the top of the bumper will act as a step to get into the camper. I dropped it all off at powdercoat last Friday and its supposed to be done this Friday. They are doing a slight texture so there is grip when stepping on the bumper.
All done. Now I just wait for the call from the powder coater.
And the bumper is ON!!
Im pretty proud of this one. First time building something this substantial from scratch. I think it turned out really well. Ill be sure to get some feedback in a couple weeks at Overland Expo though. For now, its great to have a spare on the truck again and be able to bring my bikes with me now.
I drilled and tapped holes to mount the license plate. I dont have a light on the plate, not sure if thats ever going to be an issue. I doubt Ill be driving this thing at night.
I installed a little uhmw poly skid. The latch was supposed to come with one but it wasnt in the box so I just made my own. Countersunk the holes and it works perfectly. The latch did come with a little rubber bumper that goes between the swing and the round "bar" part of the latch to keep it from rattling, not that it would, the latch is so beefy and strong but maybe over time it will break in. It also came with a sweet bike handlebar looking rubber grip.
I also chopped off the previous owners tabs that hold the stairs in place and welded them onto the new bumper before it went to powder coat. Worked great. The stairs are a little short but Ill probably just carry some leveling blocks with me for if/when I need them.
I will be adding a jerry can holder to the left side of the swing, just havent found one I want yet. I might just copy the one Ive got on my tacoma and have it powder coated.
With the swing open at 90 degrees there is 2.5 inches of clearance to the tail light. Theoretically I could fit a 40 back there. Maybe a 40" BFG haha. For now Ill be staying on the stock 6 lug axles but some day hopefully soon Ill jump to tons and at least 37s. Its nice to know there is room.
Im pretty proud of this one. First time building something this substantial from scratch. I think it turned out really well. Ill be sure to get some feedback in a couple weeks at Overland Expo though. For now, its great to have a spare on the truck again and be able to bring my bikes with me now.
I drilled and tapped holes to mount the license plate. I dont have a light on the plate, not sure if thats ever going to be an issue. I doubt Ill be driving this thing at night.
I installed a little uhmw poly skid. The latch was supposed to come with one but it wasnt in the box so I just made my own. Countersunk the holes and it works perfectly. The latch did come with a little rubber bumper that goes between the swing and the round "bar" part of the latch to keep it from rattling, not that it would, the latch is so beefy and strong but maybe over time it will break in. It also came with a sweet bike handlebar looking rubber grip.
I also chopped off the previous owners tabs that hold the stairs in place and welded them onto the new bumper before it went to powder coat. Worked great. The stairs are a little short but Ill probably just carry some leveling blocks with me for if/when I need them.
I will be adding a jerry can holder to the left side of the swing, just havent found one I want yet. I might just copy the one Ive got on my tacoma and have it powder coated.
With the swing open at 90 degrees there is 2.5 inches of clearance to the tail light. Theoretically I could fit a 40 back there. Maybe a 40" BFG haha. For now Ill be staying on the stock 6 lug axles but some day hopefully soon Ill jump to tons and at least 37s. Its nice to know there is room.
