Ok you were right about that. Tore the column apart and it had simoly rotated out of park. Got it back and the lock cylinder functions normally again. Since I have it all apart Im going to replace the lock core and ignition switch since they look really old and worn out. Still not sure thisnis going to fix the window issue though. Since the switch had power in “acc” but not in off I think the ignition switch was functioning correctly.
Forgot the 3 pedal conversion. My second thought awhile after post was double gasket oil filter.
Pro-tip to prevent that BS of the shift collar moving. Once you put the column back together put that collar in park and go under the hood and use some mechanics wire to the shifter arm to something on the firewall. It won’t do that again.
Now that I know what the issue was its easy to just rotate the collar if it happens again.
Leaving it loose is a quasi anti-theft device. Just rotate it out of park when you leave. The switch can’t move even if somebody pops the cylinder out of it.
I say that knowing the manual trans alone is its own anti theft device.
Already tried this and the motors/windows operate normally. Seems odd that both switches would stop working at the exact same time though.
Good to know. I think both sides were holding 12.3v whether the switches are pressed or not. If my memory serves me correctly. Ill try it one more time before installing the new switches.
No but I guess I need one hahaha. I think Im gonna start by tracing the grounds from the driver door where they pass through the loom by the door hinges. It cant be that hard to find, right?(famous last words!!) There are only a few wires related to the windows. I guess I could also stick a new ground onto the window switch but use its original power wire. That would be a really easy way to prove that its a bad ground.
