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ATTN: ppl w/ d60 + hydro-assist + hi-steer

muddybuddy

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hey guys, i went to install my 1.75x8" hydro-assist ram for my reverse hi-steer on my d60 and realized that there is only 6" of steering travel, so my 8" ram will not work. what size rams are you guys using with hi-steer? (should be the same as my reverse hi-steer). are you guys getting 8" of travel like you would with the tie-rod in the stock location, or does hi-steer reduce your steering travel?
 
Standard location tie rod requires an 8" stroke ram, hi-steer requires a 6" stroke ram.
 
Standard location tie rod requires an 8" stroke ram, hi-steer requires a 6" stroke ram.

well i wish i had known that before i ordered everything :doah:at least i know its something weird going on with my setup. ill get ahold of PSC and swap my 8" for a 6"
 
well i wish i had known that before i ordered everything :doah:at least i know its something weird going on with my setup. ill get ahold of PSC and swap my 8" for a 6"

Not a good thing to (ASS)U(ME) anything. That makes and ASS out of U and ME. :D
 
well i wish i had known that before i ordered everything :doah:at least i know its something weird going on with my setup. ill get ahold of PSC and swap my 8" for a 6"

Take it apart and put travel limiters in it. 1" on each side of the piston and boom your 8" ram is now a 6" ram.

I would use a piece of DOM that will just fit inside the cylinder, there is no need for it to seal either just takes up space.

I think Jason (Willyswanter) did this on his rig for some reason. I remember a post on here about limiting ram travel to prevent pushing the knuckle into the stops.

Dik
 
would a nicely machined piece of UHMW work better than a piece of metal banging around in close proximity to that nice chrome shaft?
 
hey, im the dude you bought the bumper from muddy :)

go to TSC and get there kit that has the different size blocks that go on the shaft of the ram. that will limit the inward movement, then set your bump stops to compinsate for the outward.

thats what im using for my full hydro and works fine.
 
It may depend on whose arms you are using. I asked NWF about the ram stroke on their double ended arm and they said I could use an 8. It's about 7" of traverl according to them on teh back side of the axle usding their arms. I think you can tune it a bit with the threaded rod ends. and you can always mount it a tad sideways to reduce it's stroke.
 
I have High steer along with the hydro assist and the throw of my ram needed to be closer to 6 1/2". If you go too short with the ram, you are going to end up having your ram be your stopping point for when you crank from lock to lock. You want to make sure the stops on your knuckles are hitting, that is what they are designed for. Make sure you get a good measurement of exactly how much throw you need then adjust your throw from there.
 
I guess it depends on the maker of the arms. I'm running WFO double ended steering arms and I get 8" out of em. I measured them before I ordered the 1.75x8" ram from redneck. Been running the system for almost 2 years now without issue.
 
hmm im using the NWF arms with reverse hi-steer, and i measured lock to lock and its about 6" of travel. when i steer lock to lock the knuckles never hit the stops, the steering box acts as the stop.
 
you can always mount it a tad sideways to reduce it's stroke.

Be careful, tie rods are much weaker when applying load perpendicular to the rod. If you have more than a little angle on your ram, and you get the wheels bound up when turning, you are going to bend the tie rod. Don't build a hydraulic tubing bender on your axle. :D
 
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hmm im using the NWF arms with reverse hi-steer, and i measured lock to lock and its about 6" of travel. when i steer lock to lock the knuckles never hit the stops, the steering box acts as the stop.

This is a good way to explode a steering box. You should set your stops so that the knuckles hit the stops before the steering box acts as the stop. If your stops aren't long enough then make new stops.
 
This is a good way to explode a steering box. You should set your stops so that the knuckles hit the stops before the steering box acts as the stop. If your stops aren't long enough then make new stops.

thanks for the heads up, ill go ahead and adjust them
 
easiest solution is what icu8mydust(shane) did. set the ram so that its fully extended at full lock and run external stops on the rod to limit the travel in the other direction to 6 inches.

post a pic of your setup Shane.
 
A good buddy of mine had this same problem. His pitman arm was to short. The proper way to measure is with the draglink off and measure from steering stop to steering stop. We put a proper length pitman arm on and installed an 8" stroke ram from PSC and all good. stop to stop 8" of travel. BTW his arms were from Parts Mike along with the new pitman arm. FYI his old pitman arm was from a jeep that was laying around the shop. Check all that out and fix it up. General knowledge is D44 and Toy axles use 6" stroke and D60's all use 8" of stroke. Didn't mention D30's becuase I've never messed with one.
 
A good buddy of mine had this same problem. His pitman arm was to short. The proper way to measure is with the draglink off and measure from steering stop to steering stop. We put a proper length pitman arm on and installed an 8" stroke ram from PSC and all good. stop to stop 8" of travel. BTW his arms were from Parts Mike along with the new pitman arm. FYI his old pitman arm was from a jeep that was laying around the shop. Check all that out and fix it up. General knowledge is D44 and Toy axles use 6" stroke and D60's all use 8" of stroke. Didn't mention D30's becuase I've never messed with one.

hmm well im using the pitman arm i got from NWF when i bought the steering from them. ill give them a call and see what they say. thanks
 
Have you figured out where and how you are going to mount it?? I have seen it on the top of the spring plates and two new mounts welded right on the tube.
 
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