PorterzCustomz
Registered Member
I saw the tech article on the auto to manual swap but I was woundering about if the auto transfercase and driveshafts match up?? I have a 1990 K5 with a 350. I have a 1975 C20 with 350 standard for the swap.
CK5
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Auto - Manual Conversion
- Thread starter PorterzCustomz
- Start date
5280k5
1/2 ton status
PorterzCustomz said:
You're throwing a lot of terms around here; "auto transfercase" & "350 standard" making your question not very clear. Let me try and decipher this,
you're 1990 k5 has a 350v8 w/th700r4 tranny and the 1975 c20 has a 350v8 w/sm465 manual tranny
There are several issues with this swap, first off 2wd tranny won't work in a 4wd application IIRC, you'd be better off using a newer hydraulic clutch setup that was available on trucks around the year of your k5. The driveline length will be shortened quite a bit changing to a manual trans making the rear shaft to short and the front shaft too long. Honestly, I would look for a newer 4wd truck to be a donor for the whole setup.
PorterzCustomz
Registered Member
Yes my 90 has a 350 with th700r4 and the C20 has 350 with 2 wheel drive manual tranny.
allright I also have a newer manual tranny, its the same one in the article. Can I use the flywheel/clutch from the old truck and use the newer bellhousing/slave/master? The reason I ask is the old truck just had a new clutch and flywheel put in 1K miles ago so I wanted to see where I could save money getting the parts
allright I also have a newer manual tranny, its the same one in the article. Can I use the flywheel/clutch from the old truck and use the newer bellhousing/slave/master? The reason I ask is the old truck just had a new clutch and flywheel put in 1K miles ago so I wanted to see where I could save money getting the parts
5280k5
1/2 ton status
After searching around, I found some info that says the flywheel is different starting around 1986 when they went to one piece rear main seal on the 350.
It looks you'd either need all the stuff from an older 4 spd setup or get a new flywheel & clutch which might be easier in the long run.
Most people will tell you to stick with the hydraulic setup anyways. I run the old mechanical setup and haven't had any problems................yet
It looks you'd either need all the stuff from an older 4 spd setup or get a new flywheel & clutch which might be easier in the long run.
Most people will tell you to stick with the hydraulic setup anyways. I run the old mechanical setup and haven't had any problems................yet
There's absolutely nothing wrong with the mechanical clutch setup. I DD my K10 with the SM465 with a mechanical clutch. Think my throw out bearing is starting to go, but then again I suspect that the clutch could be original.
Anyway, hydro clutch has a nicer pedal feel and is more forgiving on your left leg. But even so the mechanical setup isn't super hard either. I think that a hydro clutch is easier to setup, because you don't have to mess with all the linkage parts.
P.S. Factory hydro clutches first came out in 1985.
Anyway, hydro clutch has a nicer pedal feel and is more forgiving on your left leg. But even so the mechanical setup isn't super hard either. I think that a hydro clutch is easier to setup, because you don't have to mess with all the linkage parts.
P.S. Factory hydro clutches first came out in 1985.
Need new stye fly wheel plus all related stick body items, I would either keep it auto or get a stick newer model cuz lost of stuff isn't going to work from the 70's one. The flywheel is alot of money too.
