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Auto start on carbed engine.

TommyD11730

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Has anyone done any research or installed an auto start on their carbed truck? I have to admit Im spoiled in the winter on my 91 K5.

Thinking I need some type of electric sol to pull the throttle via a cable to set the choke.

Thoughts?
 
I suppose anything is possible with enough "rigging",but I'd say in the long run trying to remote start a carbed engine wont pan out well..

Probably be best to swap to TBI ...

If you managed to rig up solenoids to close the choke,get the engine to start,chances are the carb will end up flooding if the choke pull off cant open the butterfly enough and soon enough--those old HEI engines loved to gas wash spark plugs and quit,and refuse to fire up again until new plugs are installed..

Most of my gas powered trucks required a lot of finesse to get started cold,you had to hold the gas pedal at the right spot,only pump it a few times to set the choke,etc...it'll be hard to reproduce that electronically and remotely controlled..

My 6.2 would be a very poor candidate for a remote starter,despite being fuel injected..same deal as a gas engine only worse--you need a human to push the glow plug button for however long that is required,and hold the gas pedal at the "sweet spot" to get it to finally fire up (if its going to at all! :blush:)..and crank it long enough without de-activating the starter too soon..

I'd love to be able to fire the truck up while I'm inside sipping a coffee,and get into a nice warm truck,after a deep snowfall--but when its below 20 out,I have to grow a pair,put on my insulated coveralls and go try to get it to start..then freeze for a good ten minutes brushing the snow off it...
 
I would say at some point u would need to manually set the choke and you would have no auto kick down from m high idle except for a few hot air choke quadrajets with the temp controlled fast idle pull off feature.
 
OK, at the risk of getting something started...........
Sorry about that........

It would not be all that difficult to autostart most anything. In fact Diesel4me's 6.2 might be one of the easiest.
Keep an eye on this space, and I will post the link to the autostart panel I am using on my big genset. I don't remember the company name, but I will find it and post it.
When I bought my genset, I wanted it to auto start when the switchover panel called for emergency power. But the genset did not have any way to do it The guy I bought it from adapted it.
Years later, that panel failed, and I found a smaller, cheaper one that is on there now and does great.
My genset had to have the oil pressure failure bypassed by holding down a button, then the crank button had to be held down until it started.
Now, all I have to do to start it manually is turn on a switch.
The one thing that might hold some people back is how to detect when the engine is running. On my genset, he drilled and tapped a hole in the flywheel housing.
Then he installed a sensor that sends back a pulse every time it sees a piece of metal go by. They are called proximity sensors, and are common and fairly cheap.
It, in effect, "counts" the flywheel teeth and tells the autostart panel how fast the engine is turning. You program the panel by using switches to tell it the range of cranking vs running.
Once the engine exceeds a set speed, then it has to be running, so the panel turns off the starter.

You also need oil pressure switches and temp switches. These switches open or close on low oil pressure and high temp. My panel has other inputs that can be used to watch for other things.

Here is how a normal startup goes:
The autostart panel gets powered.
It closes a relay that turns on glowplugs. My genset does not have them, and that is not hooked to anything. On a carbed car, it could power a solenoid to set the throttle and choke.
It also turns on the electric lift pump for the fuel. In a gas engine, it would turn on the ignition.
Then, after a time delay to let the glow plugs get hot, it turns them off and turns on the starter. If it does not see cranking speed after a few seconds, it stops and retrys.
While it is cranking, it is ignoring oil pressure and temp and all other sensors.
Once the engine speed exceeds cranking speed, it turns off the starter, waits about 10 seconds and starts monitoring all sensors. Including overspeed, since its a diesel.
If one of the sensors trips, or the flyspeed goes faster than a set speed, it shuts down the fuel lift pump, stopping the engine. LEDs on the front panel tell which sensor caused the shutdown.

You would need a switchover device to take it out of the circuit and restore the control to the regular ignition system once you got in.
The hardest part would be the prox sensor, and it would not be hard as long as you took your time. Mine is a round threaded rod about a foot long. You would need to drill and tap a 1/2 inch fine thread hole in the side of the housing. The flat end of the sensor needs to be at right angles to the flywheel teeth so they go by it straight across and not at an angle.
Then you screw in the sensor until it lightly touches the flywheel teeth, back it out a turn or two and tighten down the locknut.
Different sensors have different sensing distances, but it needs to be close to see the gaps between the teeth.

There would be some fiddly bits in getting it all just right, but most of the hard work is already done by the panel. I'll post the brand name and some locations for buying prox sensors later.
 
I was only referring to the carb portion itself, with all the circuitry of the space shuttle on a cold soaked carbed engine will need to have a set and correctly adjusted choke and idle speed.
Interesting question tho.
Agreed, anything is possible.
 
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The auto start monitors rpm via neg side of coil on my 91 K5. That would be easy to replicate on my 84 HEI.

A 12v pull solonoid connected to the throttle cable should also be fairly easy to rig up. Press trunk release channel on auto start 2x to set choke/prime engine. Press auto start... engine starts on high speed cam of carb. Press trunk release to actuate throttle cable to knock carb off high speed cam and return to base idle.

This is all theory. I need a solenoid in hand to see its throw, speed and strength. Also need to know if remote start trunk release can be actuated with the truck off/not running.

Sounds good.... in theory. :)
 
A guy here in town has a 32 FORD with a dual carb'd blown big block, he has remote start on it. Its pretty cool, even has the nitrous purge solenoid hooked to the fob. It works pretty slick like others have said your carb and ignition tuning needs to be perfect.
 
I live in a cold climate. I'd recommend getting a second key, then getting yourself out there and cold starting it in person...then once it's running smoothly on medium fast idle, lock the truck and go back in the house for a few minutes while it warms up. The best part is, no technology to screw up, and my way is free.
 
I had remote start on my K5 when I was a kid and back then it was new and everyone thought it was the coolest thing. It just flat out didn't work because of the choke when stone cold. The rest of the time it would usually just fire right up with varying idle depending on how much it cooled off. I got to know when too many hours had passed that it needed the choke and depending on season.
But, I just had it to impress friends/girls in high school. If you are wanting to start it up on cold days without having to go outside then you are basically screwed.
 
Well, found the name of the autostart panel, but its not going to do a lot of good. The outfit, Synchro-Start has been bought out, and I don't see that panel on the new website.
But there are lots of others out there. Just do a search for generator auto start panel, and they will pop up.
Meanwhile, here is a pic of the one I have.
Note, since its down for maintenance, both the crank relay and the fuel pump relays I added are unplugged just in case. P3050799.jpg
 

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