auto to manual pedal swap

[formercruiserhead]

In the middle of swapping in factory pedal assembly from an 86 k10 with manual trans into my 89 k5. I have the column and old pedal assembly out. When I put the manual pedals in the rod to the brake master is angled down to connect to the pedal pin. There is another hole that would straighten it out but looks like the mounting pin is pressed in? Also if I leave all the stock wiring in the column will it have to stay in park to start? Any pics of manual pedal installed and the angle of the pushrod to the brake master would be great. Internet couldnt really find any

 

[ZooMad75]

I just did this swap on my 91, but I didn't take any pics under the dash. But one question to ask what type of brake setup was on the doner truck? Was it Vacuum boost or Hydroboost? What is your K5 setup with? Vacuum?

Reason for asking is the hydroboost pedal is different than the vacuum boost version.

 

[nvrenuf]

I happen to have my dash completely torn apart at the moment, I’ll grab some pics for you.

Do you know about the dimples in the firewall that show where to drill?

The neutral safety switch looks like a white half moon at the base of the column, there are 2 plugs - 1 flat and 1 square-ish. The square plug is the neutral safety and the flat is reverse lights. Put a jumper wire in the neutral safety switch plug to defeat it. You could also use those wires for a hidden security switch if you wanted to.

 

[formercruiserhead]

I just did this swap on my 91, but I didn't take any pics under the dash. But one question to ask what type of brake setup was on the doner truck? Was it Vacuum boost or Hydroboost? What is your K5 setup with? Vacuum?

Reason for asking is the hydroboost pedal is different than the vacuum boost version.

It was from a k10 vacuum boost

 

[nvrenuf]

Sorry @formercruiserhead i forgot, give me 10 min.

 

[nvrenuf]

Using the floor as zero degrees, the brake master cylinder push rod rises from the pedal (low) to the firewall (high) 6.8 degrees.

My Blazer is a ‘91 with vacuum boosted brakes. I installed hydraulic pedals from an ‘85, no mods to the m/c mounting position. It’s been a few years but I’m 99% sure I connected the pedal to the trucks original rod that was previously on the automatic pedal.

Here is a pic but the downward angle of the steering column creates an illusion the push rod is level, it is not. The pic is just to show where the rod hits the firewall.

 

[nvrenuf]

I didn’t remember the second hole in the pedal until I saw it today. I guess you could weld a piece of round rod in that hole and drill it for a cotter pin. I haven’t noticed any operational issues with mine.

 

[formercruiserhead]

I didn’t remember the second hole in the pedal until I saw it today. I guess you could weld a piece of round rod in that hole and drill it for a cotter pin. I haven’t noticed any operational issues with mine.

Thank you that is exactly what I need. Mine has the second hole as well. I will measure the angle on mine. Currently in the bottom hole like yours.

 

[formercruiserhead]

I didn’t remember the second hole in the pedal until I saw it today. I guess you could weld a piece of round rod in that hole and drill it for a cotter pin. I haven’t noticed any operational issues with mine.

Also do you know what the white switch on the clutch pedal is for? And what the long rod does?

 

[skunked]

The switch on the clutch pedal should be the neutral safety switch.

 

[nvrenuf]

Also do you know what the white switch on the clutch pedal is for? And what the long rod does?

Like Skunked said, the only switch should be the neutral safety switch.

What rod? Is it in my pic? There are 2 rods that come off of the big bracket that pass through the firewall, they are the mounting studs for the clutch master cylinder.

 

[campfire]

Consult the first page of the hydroboost thread tagged at the top of the garage section. Hydro and vacuum boost use different pivot pin locations, but the second hole in your pedal isn't necessarily in the right place for hydroboost (mine wasn't).

Are you running hydroboost? If not, you should be set. Check the dimensions from that thread as a sanity check.

 

[formercruiserhead]

Like Skunked said, the only switch should be the neutral safety switch.

What rod? Is it in my pic? There are 2 rods that come off of the big bracket that pass through the firewall, they are the mounting studs for the clutch master cylinder.

No it isnt in your pic it is actually near the dash, is white plastic and is currently hitting the back of the dash near where your left knee would be closest to.

 

[formercruiserhead]

Consult the first page of the hydroboost thread tagged at the top of the garage section. Hydro and vacuum boost use different pivot pin locations, but the second hole in your pedal isn't necessarily in the right place for hydroboost (mine wasn't).

Are you running hydroboost? If not, you should be set. Check the dimensions from that thread as a sanity check.

No not running hydroboost. The rod from the pedal to the booster is at quite an angle so just making sure it is right. Will look at the pages and also have friend with a blazer I am looking at today

 

[WrenchP]

I just took my 91 auto pedals apart and it seemed at an angle stock. It looks a lot like the picture above. Are you getting a good pedal feel out of it? I am getting some 88 burb manual pedals soon so if you need I can take some pictures of it in the dash for you. Let me know.

My auto brake pedal has two holes, but one was for the safety bracket that would trigger the shifting switch. Then the other housed the booster rod. Hope that helps!