Auto to Manual swap

[Muddytazz]

Beside the write up on the site, who all has done the swap? What kind of things did you run into. I've been contemplating doing this swap myself and am just looking for some "looking ahead" insite.

 

[big83chevy4x4]

i did the swap, the only thing that i ran into is the pedals. the stud where the booster hooks to the brake pedal was too big and i had to drill the hole out on my booster to fit the stud. and also the pedal had 2 studs on it instead of 4 on the auto pedals i swaped out (the other 2 were on the booster on the donor truck). i put bolts in these holes but it requires 2 people to tighten them.

i can't think of anything else that i ran into.
also here is my write up on the swap.
http://www.midwestoffroad.com/index.php?name=Content&pid=6

 

[RootBreaker]

you know the funny thing is... the swap wasnt uncommon before this site even existed... around ... 1992-1993... i did it.. with help from my father and it was a breaze...

I bought a 1978 chevy all rusted out.... bought a 82 2wd cab.... had to cut the floor out of the 2wd as the hump didnt unbolt and wasnt as high.. then bolted mine in...... dropped the column, removed brake booster.... removed pedal assembly.... replaced with clutch pedal assembly.... put back together... now I did have one benefit.... I bought a truck for $500 with 350/smc465/np205/d44/14bolt/4:56's!!!! back then that was a great score...

so put that 2wd cab on and add clutch pedal stuff and viola...


hey if ya need parts for the swap lemme know... seems I have a non ebay payer on my parts... clutch pedal ass... bellhousing, clutch fork, zbar.....

 

[dyeager535]

Only tip I have is to wait until you can get the hydraulic setup. They are a heck of a lot better than the mechanical setups both in feel and install.

 

[walla2k5]

I did this earlier this year(manual),while you have the pedels out re-bush them.I think the rebuild kit was $14.Get rid of the "over center" spring also,had an issue with my clutch pedal staying on the floor with it in place,it looks like a big 'ol garage door spring,lots of tension there too, careful...

 

[Robert79K5]

I ran into the same problem Big83 had also.

I would like to mention that if you are using the manual linkage there is a bracket that youll need that supports one side of the z bar and is rivited to the frame. When I got my linkage I was in the middle of the junkard without any real tools so I got everything except for this rivited bracket and just ordered it off the net. Wasnt very expensive and was certainly worth the time and effort I saved by not having to take the one off the donor truck.

 

[HarryH3]

I helped a friend do the swap back around '89. We dropped the 350/203 and installed a 465/205. I told him that I would help him with everything except the pedals. He later cussed at me about that... Climbing up under the dash to work on that stuff just totally sucks.

He had bought a rust-bucket K5 with the manual, so we just parked the 2 rigs side-by-side in the driveway and went at it. We started at about 5:30 and had everything but the pedals swapped by 10:30. We never even unbolted the t-cases from the transmissions. We used a mongo floor jack to raise and lower the assemblies, but luckily another guy showed up for a while as it was MUCH easier to wrestle those beasts around with 3 people.

Unbolt everything, drop trans and t-case. Remove flexplate, install pilot bushing and flywheel, then bolt up the clutch. Now install the "new" trans and t-case. Install linkage and pedals, go wheeling. Oh yeah, you'll probably need to make a trip to the driveshaft shop first...

 

[mtrdrms]

As stated above, definatly go with the hydraulic setup but be prepared to go through a few gallons of fluid trying to bleed it correctly! Also get a tranny jack to get that sucker up in there because me and a buddy had a hell of a time doing it by hand. Also drill the holes in the floor for the boot screws from the bottom before you install the tranny, it just goes alot easier this way. Good luck bro.