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Auto to manual wiring question

carpeonnel

carpeonnel

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Sylvester, Georgia
I recently converted my 89 with 700/241 to 465/205 and I'm having a problem with the wiring to get it to run. I'm told I need to bypass the park wires so it'll crank but I don't know which wires are the correct ones underneath the steering column.

I thought these were the correct wires and I cut the top 2 in the picture and tied them together, but that's not them. Anybody know the correct wires?

picture.php
 
there are 2 plugs all the way at the bottom of the steering column, one has purple/yellow( IIRC) those are the start wires that yo0u need to put together, the other 2 are the back up lamps.
 
Thanks man. I'll when I get off work in the morning I'll check it out and see I can find them. Now I gotta wire the wires I cut back together :D
 
Actually you shouldnt have to rewire anything. I didnt on the 90 or the 88 Burb and aside from the "Check Engine" light occasionally coming on in the 90, both work fine.
 
Found the correct wires, i think. made the back up lights work so I assumed that the other two do the park/neutral but I'm color blind so I don't know what color they are. That didn't work!! Same thing happens when I try to crank it. all gauge lights and gauge function go out completely. Back up lights won't work, but the interior light and headlights will come on. Have to disconnect battery and let it sit for a second for everything to reset, I guess, then everything will come back on. Try to crank it again and everything cuts out. The ignition quits doing the beeeeeepppp as well :D.

Anybody got a clue? Checked all the fuses and they are perfectly fine???? HELP

Note: the wires I cut this time are actually the ones I'm holding with my ring finger in the picture. The black and yellowish ones are the back up lights so shouldn't the others be park/neutral
 
Only time I've seen that happen turned out to be a crappy connection at the battery cable end. All was well until you try to pull too much juice, then it all quits. Wiggle the connection and it comes back on. Sounds like it might be your problem too. Remember, even the non-removable cable ends can get corroded inside and stop working. Try cranking, let everything shut off, then check for power at the cable on your starter or in the fuse panel, or both. Just a thought.:D
 
pull the ground cable off of the battery and where ever it mounts and clean them and the spot they attach to. also add a ground from frame to engine and frame to sheet metal if you don't already have it.
 
Found the problem. Evidently I had a couple of the starter wires pinched in between the engine block and the bellhousing when I mounted the new engine and tranny. Fixed them and the truck fired right up. It's always the simple things
 
Sorry for the Hijack, But i was wondering if you need to re program your computer when you switch to a manual
 
Madmudder1234 said:
Sorry for the Hijack, But i was wondering if you need to re program your computer when you switch to a manual
Click to expand...

Actually, you dont even need a new chip. Both of mine run fine without new chips. The 90 will throw a code on rapid decel, but it doesnt affect the engine in a way that is noticable.:laugh:
 
Depends on which year the donor is. From 87 to 91 shouldn't even have tranny wiring. From 92 to 95 could make it work with minor modifications. Maybe someone who has used this setup can answer which changes need to be made.
 
TCC is controlled via the ECM on the earlier setups, thats true.

And to previous posts, if the engine size was the same, PROM differences will be less noticeable. Different displacement engines will exhibit more problems.
 
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