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Autometer fuel level sender

scottystills

scottystills

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So went to put in the new sender for my gauges today, and the damn thing isn't even close to the way the sender on the fuel tank is today. Is this a diesel problem, and think there's an adapter or something? Missed AM tech support's hours by 20 minutes, too impatient to wait until Monday!

Existing sender w/ pickup and return:


New sender in the AM kit:
 
are you suppose to reuse the lock ring? And boy I'll tell you, that lock ring of yours is way tighter than mine. If I twist my ring using one tab too many times, 180* of that tab it comes out. Frustrating
 
K85 Octane said:
are you suppose to reuse the lock ring? And boy I'll tell you, that lock ring of yours is way tighter than mine. If I twist my ring using one tab too many times, 180* of that tab it comes out. Frustrating
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I suppose I am, but the new plate is quite a bit smaller diameter than the old one, and doesn't have anywhere to put the pickup/return.

It's tighter than hell, took forever to get it off actually, but it eventually popped.

I'm wondering if I should just leave the existing one in (maybe take the float off), drain the tank, cut a new hole and use the cork gasket that came with the AM kit to mount the new sender with some self-taps. Any reason this would be a huge problem?
 
I would wait for tech support before doing anything like that. The sender really should be in the center, especially if there is any baffling inside the tank. I'd either wait or see if a local auto store has an OEM style to fit.
 
Hmmm... I suppose cooler heads will prevail! And here I was warming up my hole saws... Damn logic! Not like I don't have a hundred other things to get done in the meantime, like everyone else haha

Have to put a new wiring harness into my buddy's 68 Bronco tomorrow, so that's going to kill Saturday anyway. Sunday I'll get back to wiring and dash.

You know, if I'd cut a hole and scabbed it in there, I would've been able to call it "custom". Now I can only call it aftermarket. lol
 
That Autometer sender is for a fuel cell not a factory tank. You DO NOT need to install a different/new sender to use the Autometer fuel level gauge unless you bought the wrong gauge. GM senders are 0-90ohms and as long as you bought the correct 0-90ohm Autometer gauge then you just hook the gauge to your existing sender.
 
4X4HIGH said:
That Autometer sender is for a fuel cell not a factory tank. You DO NOT need to install a different/new sender to use the Autometer fuel level gauge unless you bought the wrong gauge. GM senders are 0-90ohms and as long as you bought the correct 0-90ohm Autometer gauge then you just hook the gauge to your existing sender.
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x2:thumb:

and if your sender is bad you just need a new stock unit.
 
Hmmm... Just tested the new sender, looks like it runs 30-240(then open) ohms. That's not a good sign...
 
What are we trying to accomplish here? (that sounds bad, but really just asking) :D
 
So just spitballing, but I'm thinking I can pull the OEM sender, and replace the rheostat with the one that came as part of the AM sender. Just need to check the hookup, might be able to reuse the existing float. Worst case I use the new one and adjust it appropriately.
 
scottystills said:
haha! Trying to get my new gauges properly installed (more specifically the fuel level sender).
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fair enough
do you know the ohm of the new gauge/ sender?

If the autometer sender wasn't that expensive, you can try pulling it apart. But really, something from an auto parts store or Rockauto is only 35 bucks maybe without a pump. Return the Autometer dohicky
 
K85 Octane said:
fair enough
do you know the ohm of the new gauge/ sender?

If the autometer sender wasn't that expensive, you can try pulling it apart. But really, something from an auto parts store or Rockauto is only 35 bucks maybe without a pump. Return the Autometer dohicky
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Just hooked up a my trusty multi-meter and ran the rheostat through its stroke, measured the resistance range.

Sender came in the gauge kit. But if the gauge is matched to a sender that runs 30-240 ohms, a replacement OEM one that runs 0-90 ohms still isn't going to work.

Going to get dark here right away, but I'll pull the OEM one out of the tank tomorrow morning and see if I can switch them without having to wrap the thing in duct tape :waytogo:
 
It would be easier to just send the "Autometer kit" back for the correct one so that it matches what the truck used from the factory (0-90 Ohm).
 
Success!

Well it took a while, this got put to the side while I finished a bunch of the other things on my list, but it ended up being a LOT easier than I thought it was going to be. Here's how it worked:

Here's what it looked like originally


Undid the tabs and pulled the original float and rheostat off


Then I just unbolted the support from the AM mounting plate, drilled a hole in the original plate, and bob's your uncle





Cleaned up to use the new electrical connector


Surprisingly the top plate still looks fairly clean. Glad it turned out like it did.


Of course couldn't get the whole assembly into the tank, so had to unbolt the new sender support, slide everything into the tank, then re attach it. All in there now and working perfectly.
 
I'm assuming you have some sort of seal where you bolted the sender assembly to your existing sender, (if not expect leaks when the tank is near full)?
 
4X4HIGH said:
I'm assuming you have some sort of seal where you bolted the sender assembly to your existing sender, (if not expect leaks when the tank is near full)?
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Yep you can see the rubber washer on the top side of the electrical in the one picture, there's two more top and bottom of the plate where the new bolt is going through.
 
scottystills said:
Yep you can see the rubber washer on the top side of the electrical in the one picture, there's two more top and bottom of the plate where the new bolt is going through.
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I seen the one where the electrical comes through but wasn't able to make out any seal where the bolt is. :thumb:

Hopefully it is a fuel compatible seal.
 
how does it work once installed , my fuel level is a crap shoot and might do the same thing
 
Too early to tell. I'm actually just taking a break from stabbing my trans this afternoon. hoping to get the rest of the dash and wiring together this week. I'll give an update once everything's running.
 
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