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Autometer gauge install

4X4HIGH

4X4HIGH

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Ok, for those of you who have installed aftermarket gauges (electric gauges in particular) did you wire them through the original cluster plug or run all new wiring? I would think it would be alot easier to tie them into the original cluster plug with the exception of the oil pressure gauge on vehicles that use the combination oil pressure switch that also acts as a back up for the fuel pump relay in which case running that wire seperate would make sense.
 
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when you get autometer gauges they come with sending units, except fuel and volt of course. I'd use the wiring for power and lights, but run separate wires to the new senders. Run all the new wires to a terminal block to keep it clean, from the other side of the block you run wire to the gauges. Just an idea.

I can't saw much, I rewired my entire truck at the same time, so my gauge install doesn't help.
 
I just changed the plug for a multipin plug I bought at the local electronic store.
 
My personal feeling is why would you want to use old wire that has the potential for failure? Let's face reality here, the wiring in our trucks wasn't that great when they were new, and after 20-30 years it hasn't gotten better. When I did the electric water temp gauge I ran new wire to the sending unit, but I did re-use the lighting wiring from the cluster.
 
Yeah, I think i'll use the ground and keyed +12 volt wires and then run new wires to the senders for the water temp and oil pressure but reuse the wire going to the fuel sender. I will also run wiring for the volt meter since I want to hook it up through a 3 way switch so I can monitor either battery or the alternator by flipping the switch accordingly.
 
Ok, I started playing with a factory bezel to see what I could do with it. I used my dremel with a saw blade to cut and remove all of the protrusion on the backside of the bezel and here's what it now looks like. Even with the factory gauge housing in place I can still install of the Autometer gauges without having to cut or trim any of the original gauge housing which I was hoping so that I can retain the factory turn signal indicators and gear selector. I will have to install some LED's for the SES light, high beam indicator, brake light, and the 4WD light (if I decide to keep that light). Ii'm going to use angle rings to allow the gauges to be angled about as they were factory and i've already got some for the 2 5/8" gauges but i'll need to pick a couple up for the 5" gauges (Rex Marine here I come).

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Gauge housing.jpg
 
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4X4HIGH said:
Yeah, I think i'll use the ground and keyed +12 volt wires and then run new wires to the senders for the water temp and oil pressure but reuse the wire going to the fuel sender. I will also run wiring for the volt meter since I want to hook it up through a 3 way switch so I can monitor either battery or the alternator by flipping the switch accordingly.
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I like the idea, but anytime the truck is running and charging, alt voltage and batt voltage will be the same unless you have some way of totally isolating the battery from the system momentarily.
 
fmstruck said:
I like the idea, but anytime the truck is running and charging, alt voltage and batt voltage will be the same unless you have some way of totally isolating the battery from the system momentarily.
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I understand that the voltage "should" be the same at the alternator as the battery but what i'm talking about is that with the engine off, key on I can then monitor battery voltage in either battery by flipping the switch in either direction but when the switch is centered that will be the position it stays in when the truck is running so I know what the alternator is doing. Also, there is usually a certain amount of voltage drop between the alternator and battery. Also just for reference i'm running a battery isolator.
 
I see what you're trying to accomplish now. Should cue you to a failing battery before they're both bad like usually happens.
 
Ok, progress has been slow because of available time and being sick but here are a couple more pics. I still need to make some angle rings for the 5" gauges and hopefully I can get that done this week. Once all the gauges are installed then i'll determine which gauge to place where, but the most important gauges will be in the upper left and lower right corners on the 2 5/8" gauges as the steering wheel blocks most of the view on the other two without me moving my head around to see them.

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Your right about the position of the important gauges. That wheel sure does get right in the way. My upper left is WATER and lower right is FUEL. IIRC, haven't looked in a while :doah::(

I like the angle you put on your smaller gauges. Is that just PVC pipe around the gauges?
 
I could care less about fuel level, i'm more concerned with water temp and oil pressure. I'm just not sure yet which position I want to put those gauges.
 
haha, I can easily see myself running out of fuel somewhere vs. losing oil pressure. If I could mount the fuel inside the speedo, that would be awesome:doah:
 
My thought and plan was to have the oil pressure at the bottom right and the water temp at the top left. My thinking is that both are easy to see, but the oil pressure sure seems to be the one that I watch the most and that puts it inside the wheel closer to the speedo which should make quick checks easier. But, that was just my thought when I planned to keep the factory layout.
 
K85 Octane said:
haha, I can easily see myself running out of fuel somewhere vs. losing oil pressure. If I could mount the fuel inside the speedo, that would be awesome:doah:
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I saw a pic of the tach from a C60 and it had the tach with a small fuel guage at the bottom on if...

Might be an option.

Rene
 
lectric80 said:
My thought and plan was to have the oil pressure at the bottom right and the water temp at the top left. My thinking is that both are easy to see, but the oil pressure sure seems to be the one that I watch the most and that puts it inside the wheel closer to the speedo which should make quick checks easier. But, that was just my thought when I planned to keep the factory layout.
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That was my thought as well. I would really like to keep both "important" gauges next to each other but the damn steering wheel makes that impossible.
 
I like the different value we put on each gauge haha. Having them next to each other would be nice, but like you mentioned, that damn wheel is there. Could swap over to a 8" dish or maybe clear Plexiglas wheel?:D


Waitin on the finished product:popcorn: :waytogo:
 
K85 Octane said:
I like the different value we put on each gauge haha. Having them next to each other would be nice, but like you mentioned, that damn wheel is there. Could swap over to a 8" dish or maybe clear Plexiglas wheel?:D


Waitin on the finished product:popcorn: :waytogo:
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I have solved this problem. Its simply a matter of having a freakishly long torso and tilt steering.

I am 6'2" and sitting down I am really close(taller actually) to my brother who is 6'5" and my two cousins who are taller.

I just tilt the wheel down and I can see all of the gauges. The blinkers are hard to see but hey sacrifices ya know

Wow I must be full of something tonight I seem to be adding useless dribble to threads all over the place, oh well, let the lunacy continue.
 
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