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Autometer gauge problems

Chevy305

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Ok so since I installed a full autometer gauge instamentation(dont ask how I mounted them just search it), I have been having some issues. Right now the gas gauge is pinned at full. All grounds are solid and clean along with all new connectors. Is there a way to check and see if its the sending unit in the tank or the gauge thats screwed up?

Also I have never been able to keep a working, accurate speedo in my truck. The autometer one i bought is a mechanical that worked perfect for the first 100 miles then the needle went erratic would go pinned out then back to normal then pinned until the needle finally broke off. So I thought this was a gauge problem (obviously) so I bought a new one. The needle on the new one doesnt move at all. Now I havent checked the cable yet, but the cable is a brand new lokar cable. Anyone else having similar problems?
 
ok, first fuel....

if you accidently touched 12v to the sender post, the gauge is nuked... it will stay at full...

disconnect the send wire, jumper it to grd, turn ign on, gauge should pin if ok.. the sender is just a variable grd..


speedo..... can't say for certain, but watch how tight the cable is in the receptacle on the speedo... is the lokar a clip on, or screw on setup? My older mechanical has a thread on adapter to use the clip on cable, when I had it on too tight, the cable was apparently bound up and freaking the needle out...
 
ok, first fuel....

if you accidently touched 12v to the sender post, the gauge is nuked... it will stay at full...

disconnect the send wire, jumper it to grd, turn ign on, gauge should pin if ok.. the sender is just a variable grd..


speedo..... can't say for certain, but watch how tight the cable is in the receptacle on the speedo... is the lokar a clip on, or screw on setup? My older mechanical has a thread on adapter to use the clip on cable, when I had it on too tight, the cable was apparently bound up and freaking the needle out...

Thanks for the insight.

I'll try the gas gauge test. But I might mention that it worked fine, then intermitantly, and now just pinned out all the time. I have ended up running out of gas twice this week. Normally this wouldnt be a problem but I cant clock the miles without a working speedo... :doah:

Yes the speedo cable is screw on style on both ends. Its a cut-to-fit design. So maybe I cut it too long and now its binding. I need to go look at it.
 
Thanks for the insight.

I'll try the gas gauge test. But I might mention that it worked fine, then intermitantly, and now just pinned out all the time. I have ended up running out of gas twice this week. Normally this wouldnt be a problem but I cant clock the miles without a working speedo... :doah:

Yes the speedo cable is screw on style on both ends. Its a cut-to-fit design. So maybe I cut it too long and now its binding. I need to go look at it.


sounds like a sender... test the gauge, and you can ohm out the disconnected sender wire to see if it's in the right ballpark...

and yeah, check how that square drive is in the cable end... for me, I just backed the lockring off a turn or so, and it worked fine... first time, it snapped the cable end...
 
Fuel gauged pegged full is usually a sender wire grounded somewhere. The speedo is probably a bad or sticking cable. When you installed the new Lokar cable did you lube the cable with cable eaze?
 
Ok so I figuered out that when I ground the sending wire the gauge stays pegged at full. The needle doesnt move at all. I think the gauge is toast.

The speedo cable was def cut slightly too long. It bound up when I tightened it down at the tcase and then twisted apart there. Found a new inner cable in the HELP section in Autozone... :haha: I'll install it when i get a chance.
 

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