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auxilliary mechanical parking brake

76zimmer

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has anyone tried a secondary/auxilliary caliper on the rear disc conversions?

this looks like a good idea, but need to come up with brackets, cable and hardware.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Wilwood/Wilwood-Mechanical-Parking-Brake-Spot-Calipers/757779/10002/-1

950202280.jpg
 
that has to be used on drive line as the largest rotor width is .81" and the rotor used with the 14 bolt is 1.25"
 
Check out "Cut Bros" on Facebook, the make an adapter bracket to put later model AAM disc brakes w/ e-brake calipers on an older 14 bolt. If I wasn't so hot for my D60 caliper set up I'd go this route.

Also, Northwest Fab makes a driveline brake kit now.
 
Think there's enough surface area to make it useful? Might be ok to use for a driveshaft mounted brake where it'd take 1/4th the clamping force (in the case of 4.10 gears) but mounted at the wheels with large tires creating more of a lever … ummm, yeah, I'm not so sure about that.
 
Appreciate the comments guys.
I hadn't given consideration to the gear reduction having a leverage over mounting on t/c output.
 
All the monster trucks use pinion mounted disc brakes to take advantage of the gearing increasing the holing power..

However,on a truck used for wheeling,that disc might be likely to get whacked on a rock or other obstacle..

I was shocked when I opened up a winch I have thats rated for 4500 lbs--all it has for a "brake" is two tiny pads no bigger than your fingernails on your pinky finger,and the "disc" is just stamped sheet metal,about 2" in diameter!..but it has 584:1 reduction,so even that tiny brake will hold a truck off the ground,or from rolling backwards..and the pads are only glued on!..:eek:..
 
Check out "Cut Bros" on Facebook, the make an adapter bracket to put later model AAM disc brakes w/ e-brake calipers on an older 14 bolt. If I wasn't so hot for my D60 caliper set up I'd go this route.

Also, Northwest Fab makes a driveline brake kit now.

Cut Bros instructions. Looks interesting, except for turning down the hubs. Curious what all the brake parts run in total.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1Bfrv5SpptudmQ3Yk5SdWgzOFl0MlBQdWIyZy1FcGhaZEMw/view
 
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i would be using it for a parking brake only....actually my brakes on the Maiden are really dialed in well!
 
I had a Harley golf cart rear diff that had a pinion mounted disc brake about 10" in diameter with a cable operated mechanical caliper and pads almost as large as GM 1/2 ton ones..

That thing would lock up the rear tires quite easily,even at speeds around 30 mph in the go-cart I made using it,and I had put 13" trailer rims and tires on it instead of the factory 8" ones,which would make it harder to stop..the diff had some low gearing in the 6:1 range..
 
I have caddy calipers and use the ebrake loyally.. still wont hold the truck on the slightest incline thus I leave my sm465 in R

Unfortunately I think they are "finicky" at best. Some of it probably due to how they are setup, some of it to design. Not everyone has problems, not everyone has success with them.

Personally I think a driveline brake coupled with front calipers for rear disks is a good solution instead of sticking with the Caddy stuff. Not sure in the end if the price is a wash or not, but driveline brakes work without question, apparently.
 
I have caddy calipers and use the ebrake loyally.. still wont hold the truck on the slightest incline thus I leave my sm465 in R

Sounds like you should spend some time figuring out why they won't hold. I can set my e-brake then put it in gear and try to throttle forward and the truck won't budge. It has alot to do with the distance the cable housing bracket is from the lever arm. You can then fine tune the adjustment with the cable tension. In my case it probably helped that I personally rebuilt the calipers so I KNOW they work correctly.
 
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