CK5
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auxilliary mechanical parking brake

Sounds like you should spend some time figuring out why they won't hold. I can set my e-brake then put it in gear and try to throttle forward and the truck won't budge. It has alot to do with the distance the cable housing bracket is from the lever arm. You can then fine tune the adjustment with the cable tension. In my case it probably helped that I personally rebuilt the calipers so I KNOW they work correctly.


I do need to look at this. I bet my issue is how my rear disc cable bracket is. they are not welded, or anything...just sitting there under the axle.. so maybe it not held in place and cable pulling...

flame on...

reardiscleft.jpg


reardiscright.jpg
 
The brake lever should be resting on the stop, your set up it is already applied before you start. That is assuming that the parking brake is not applied. It only takes about a quarter inch movement on the lever to lock that disk tight as He!!.
Yhis video is on the 79 and up,but same principal.
 
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I do need to look at this. I bet my issue is how my rear disc cable bracket is. they are not welded, or anything...just sitting there under the axle.. so maybe it not held in place and cable pulling...

flame on...

reardiscleft.jpg


reardiscright.jpg

You can't expect the e-brake to work if the cable housing isn't being held in place. SMH
 
lol first step.. take the damn thing back off
sophisticated wording.. tephlon thingy.. LOL

wait... 2:50... there is a passenger and drivers side.. uuuuhhh crud... LOL

man expect a new thread by me...
 
I know this is side tracking from the original poster... found the spring and brackets..
http://www.rockhoundoffroad.com/_p/prd14/4430208831/product/eldorado-e-brake-brackets-and-springs

Glad to see someone is making pieces now, which should drive cost down a bit, but has anyone compiled a list of what the El Dorado swap cost?

I'm just wondering how the overall cost compares to a driveline brake. I suppose with driveline brake you still have to purchase calipers and rotors for the axle, so price may still be less for El Dorado parts?
 
Add a fixed yoke kit to a 241 0r 208 and new drive shaft all equals money.
 
I went to 1979 Caddy calipers when I did the Warn full float, brackets came with the kit. Got used calipers, with all hard ware $25. Got a set of rebuilds for $100. New Cadillac e brakes cables for $30. New front 89 K10 rotors for $50. That was in 2000. Got new exchange calipers and they came with all the hard on them. The price of the rebuilds have come down and the core price has gone up
 
About $500, not including cables, calipers and rotors, looking at the highangledriveline kit.
 
I spent about 500 total and had custom brackets made for the ebrake cable and return spring. I wish I could have found the original brackets and springs. Would have saved some money.
 
In a thread somewhere on here years ago I stated that I used the El Dorado calipers and Fleetwood springs, brackets and levers and my factory e-brake cables. If I can make these e-brakes he very well so can anyone else.
 
I've always heard that in places with inspection, a driveline-mounted brake doesn't count as a parking brake. In my experience, PARK in 4LO is more effective at holding the truck in precarious situations than a parking brake is, because that's only 2 wheels. However, whether you use PARK or a parking brake on the driveline, if you lose traction with 1 front tire and 1 rear tire, the vehicle can move (unless you have lockers). Also, you could break a U-joint and not be parked in 4WD where a driveline brake wouldn't hold you, but has that ever happened to anybody? The joint would have to break at the moment the parking load is put on it, but not have broken earlier from driving loads.

I've never seen a vehicle spin a tire backwards to slip forwards while parked, but it's kind of common while winching, so you can imagine it could happen. In that case, sliding requires 2 wheels to slip for parking brake or driveline brake.
 
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