CK5
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Avert your eyes... (10 bolt gov bomb G80)
- Thread starter clandr1
- Start date
here ya go.
It's your truck dude...
Rene
Rene
I appreciate that sentiment.
This truck is going to be used primarily for hunting and camping trips so I'm pretty sure this will last for years under what little abuse it'll see. I just find it funny that people have so much hate for a system that works well in probably 95+% of GM 1/2 ton trucks on the road today.
So, I figured I'd poke the bear here on CK5 just a little
K5dreamer
1/2 ton status
not gonna lie, ive thought about this myself quite a bit. the gov bomb in my 1/2 ton has worked flawlessly on fire trails, light mud, snow (pulled friggin UPS trucks out when they were stuck) with my little 33in tires. Putting one in the front seems like a dirt cheap way to have a fully locked rig for gettin through some light-medium stuff.
Although with how cheap they are, id carry one or two spares with me in the truck if i were going anywhere far from civilization. and all the gear to swap the broken ones out.
Although with how cheap they are, id carry one or two spares with me in the truck if i were going anywhere far from civilization. and all the gear to swap the broken ones out.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
i already did this to my truck a few years ago, it sucked, no real advantage with it until you start spinning tires up front, then bang engauges, not the best for the axleshafts IMO.
removed it shortly after about 3 outtings and put in an actual lock-rite, just keep it in two wheel drive for most of everything i do and pop the shifter into 4wd when i want to lock in the front axles. Of course the hubs have to be locked, but as long as no torque is applied to the locker, it releases the shafts and lets you steer without issue.
been working great for the past 4 or so years i have had it in there.
removed it shortly after about 3 outtings and put in an actual lock-rite, just keep it in two wheel drive for most of everything i do and pop the shifter into 4wd when i want to lock in the front axles. Of course the hubs have to be locked, but as long as no torque is applied to the locker, it releases the shafts and lets you steer without issue.
been working great for the past 4 or so years i have had it in there.
i already did this to my truck a few years ago, it sucked, no real advantage with it until you start spinning tires up front, then bang engauges, not the best for the axleshafts IMO.
removed it shortly after about 3 outtings and put in an actual lock-rite, just keep it in two wheel drive for most of everything i do and pop the shifter into 4wd when i want to lock in the front axles. Of course the hubs have to be locked, but as long as no torque is applied to the locker, it releases the shafts and lets you steer without issue.
been working great for the past 4 or so years i have had it in there.
How does a Lock Rite work differently from a Gov Lock? I thought they were both mechanically activated? Also, I heard the lock rite makes noise as you turn back and forth -- is that only when the hubs are locked?
k20
3/4 ton status
the lock rite is similar to the detroit in how it functions, when you apply power it locks together, off power and it free wheels. So with it in 2wd (or hubs unlocked) the locker doesnt affect your turning radius, but the second you kick it into 4wd, it is locked (well, assuming you are on the gas). It doesnt have to spin x number of turns like the gov-loc to engage.
A locker doesn't freewheel when no power is applied, or there would be no engine braking, or reverse. Thing of it this way, it's like a ratchet, with a cam that switches directions. It's always locked, but will allow either wheel (not both, or it will switch directions) to spin FASTER than the ring gear is being moved. So the outside wheel can always spin faster around corners, but if you give it gas it is driving the inside wheel, so it's easy to spin the inside wheel. But the moment the inside wheel catches up with hte outside wheel then they are turning the same speed again because neither wheel can go slower. The key is this, either wheel can spin faster, but not both.
The gov lock works with a weight that has to be moved by the force of a spinning wheel. So it will only engage after a wheel is spinning. Whereas a locker is always locked, just allows either wheel to go faster,
The gov lock works with a weight that has to be moved by the force of a spinning wheel. So it will only engage after a wheel is spinning. Whereas a locker is always locked, just allows either wheel to go faster,
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ccarley
1/2 ton status
I know I'm dragging up an old thread here... and this doesn't seem to be a very popular swap.
But I'm wondering, how has it been working out? I am considering doing the same to my Suburban. I have my old 10-bolt gov-lock sitting on the bench, which when it was in the rear, worked flawlessly.
I have to change my axle seals anyway, and happen to have shims & such as well. Since I don't have $$$ at the moment for another Detroit/Eaton TrueTrack, and my gear oil is starting to leak even with the front end disengaged... I was considering swapping this sucker in.
And, similarly, I'm no hard-core 'wheeler. More of a backcountry explorer. Maybe some mud, sand, snow, ice & the like, and if I'm in the rocks, they aren't that big
But I'm wondering, how has it been working out? I am considering doing the same to my Suburban. I have my old 10-bolt gov-lock sitting on the bench, which when it was in the rear, worked flawlessly.
I have to change my axle seals anyway, and happen to have shims & such as well. Since I don't have $$$ at the moment for another Detroit/Eaton TrueTrack, and my gear oil is starting to leak even with the front end disengaged... I was considering swapping this sucker in.
And, similarly, I'm no hard-core 'wheeler. More of a backcountry explorer. Maybe some mud, sand, snow, ice & the like, and if I'm in the rocks, they aren't that big
I changed the thread title to make it easier to find via the search tool.
It worked just fine, but I found it was wanting to lock up under normal driving conditions. When I regeared last month, I took the locker out of the front. I have a winch now, and my locker in the rear, so I figured I would opt for the driveability as opposed to having a locked front axle.
If you're going to drive in a straight line, it's fine, but when you can't control when the locker is engaged vs not, it gets tough to control the vehicle in certain situations.
It worked just fine, but I found it was wanting to lock up under normal driving conditions. When I regeared last month, I took the locker out of the front. I have a winch now, and my locker in the rear, so I figured I would opt for the driveability as opposed to having a locked front axle.
If you're going to drive in a straight line, it's fine, but when you can't control when the locker is engaged vs not, it gets tough to control the vehicle in certain situations.
TheBeast_88K5
Banned
Fwiw, I HATED my Eaton Posi, up front....
That G80 might be different, but LSD up front, SUCKED.
I alsowheel rocks, tho....
That G80 might be different, but LSD up front, SUCKED.
I alsowheel rocks, tho....
ccarley
1/2 ton status
Well, since I'm going to be tearing into it anyway... I guess it's worth a shot. If I don't like it, I can always take it out
Thanks for the info!
Thanks for the info!
I have thought about this, too, as it could be a nice setup for winter roads and they are practically free, where an ARB is a pile of money. I think it's only a good idea with small tires.
I don't think swapping a broken one on the trail is much of an option, as you sort of need a gear setup to change the carrier. I think you would just unlock the hubs and shift to 2WD. Lunchbox lockers are about the only thing you could swap on the trail unless your axle has a removable 3rd member.
I don't think swapping a broken one on the trail is much of an option, as you sort of need a gear setup to change the carrier. I think you would just unlock the hubs and shift to 2WD. Lunchbox lockers are about the only thing you could swap on the trail unless your axle has a removable 3rd member.
badmix
1/2 ton status
This isnt true. I have a loc-rite in the rear. Its UNLOCKED during Turns only, that is the ratchet noise that we all hear when going thru parking lots at slow speed. The Loc-rite is engaged 100% when the truck is going straight, doesnt matter if the motor is off, if your coasting, if you let off gas or if your wide open throttle, it locks both wheels.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Which is what I was sort of saying about mine, I like it better than the Govloc in the front because I have alittle more control over it's locking properties.
If I want to be able to turn, I put the transfer case in 2wd, hubs still locked, no power is added to the front driveshaft, not locking it in, when I need the front wheels locked, it goes in to 4wd, torque the driveline and it locks in, but is then a pain to steer,,, with stock steering setup anyways.
I ran a Govloc in the front, all I can say to someone who is contemplating the idea of putting one in the front, is you most likely won't like it, It really never benefitted anything in my setup when it was there.
The Locrite has been in there ever since the removal of the Govloc for the past several years with multiple trips on it. Still working great.
If I want to be able to turn, I put the transfer case in 2wd, hubs still locked, no power is added to the front driveshaft, not locking it in, when I need the front wheels locked, it goes in to 4wd, torque the driveline and it locks in, but is then a pain to steer,,, with stock steering setup anyways.
I ran a Govloc in the front, all I can say to someone who is contemplating the idea of putting one in the front, is you most likely won't like it, It really never benefitted anything in my setup when it was there.
The Locrite has been in there ever since the removal of the Govloc for the past several years with multiple trips on it. Still working great.
Is that implying that with the hubs locked in (2 or 4WD I assume) and trying to turn, under power or coasting, the differential in wheel speed was enough for it to lock? That sounds worse than horrible.
If a front gov-lock wants to lock due to typical steering conditions, I wonder if a stronger spring could be used in the governor. I think I started a thread several years ago about "gov-lock tuning", in which no real information appeared. 
The problem with delaying the lock too much is that there will be more shock when it does happen. But obviously you need to reach minimum turning radius before the locker kicks in.
The problem with delaying the lock too much is that there will be more shock when it does happen. But obviously you need to reach minimum turning radius before the locker kicks in.
Delaying AND slowing down the speed at which it applies would both be beneficial in this particular application.
Do we know if Eaton ever changed the setup? As hard as it obviously is on the "early" 8.5's, if it were possible to reduce the shock load, they might actually hold up even in the rear, much like a posi assembly, just with less slip. I would think Eaton would have done this were it possible.
In the rear I really never feel the thing lock or unlock, so I never know if it's actually working. In the front I'm guessing it's much more noticeable.
Do we know if Eaton ever changed the setup? As hard as it obviously is on the "early" 8.5's, if it were possible to reduce the shock load, they might actually hold up even in the rear, much like a posi assembly, just with less slip. I would think Eaton would have done this were it possible.
In the rear I really never feel the thing lock or unlock, so I never know if it's actually working. In the front I'm guessing it's much more noticeable.
