Aw SNAP - Rear driveshaft

[Lunatic]

Last Sunday I lost my rear drive shaft joint at the transfer, on the shaft side.

Seriously good fortune of the event - I had just (A) pulled off the highway to take a back road the rest of the way home and (B) was driving on surface streets at less than 30mph. (C) The joint threw a cap as I was slowing for a stop light and (D) the shaft stayed up from drive line tension.

It finally fell when I parked at a school (across from the light) and shifted P-D-R-Park.

I don't want to think of all the carnage it would have created if it had dropped on the highway at 75mph. I assume it would have speared the road, damaged the rear end, and definitely introduced my rear bumper to the vehicle behind me and then some.

So, I'll take the breakage, and call it good from everything that DIDN'T happen.

Onto my reason for this thread - I can not find a rear drive shaft.


Stores (Autozone, Oreilly's, Advance Auto) don't list them - And the counter tech offers me a half-shaft instead.

LMC, Brothers, Classic, Truck Shop don't have a listing either.

Machine shops locally can't/won't help - I called each one listed. I have not expanded machine shops yet out of the local area.

I have been to local and non local yards, to include 2 PNPs (Belton/Austin Wrench-A-Part) and one salvage yard in Briggs, TX (Harolds). Local salvage yards (few remain) give me a "nah...We aint go nothin like that".

Current options are to expand out further to machine shops north and south for a simple recap, go to the dealership (I might as well buy another blazer/jimmy for the price), or.......

Ask if the brotherhood has one laying around. I'll gladly pay for it and whatever it takes to receive it.


I don't think PMs would be a good idea being I have a non subscription cap of 5 messages. If you can help, just respond here. I'll be watching and respond, and also update if a solution (shaft) is provided.


Thanks for reading, and helping if you can.



Troy B
Ft Hood, TX

 

[Fordum]

Glad to see you back, even if for a bad reason......

This may sound stupid, but what is wrong with the shaft you have?
You said the joint threw a cap, but did not fall until you were stopped. I have only ever had one do that, and was lucky as you that it happened when I was shifting to reverse.

I just slid under, unbolted the rear joint, replaced the front and rear, and put it back on.
Did in on the front bumper of my truck sitting in the parts house parking lot.

I'm guessing that you have damage you did not mention??

 

[Lunatic]

Hey Fordum, it's been a while hasn't it ?


There is damage to the cap holes and surrounding area of the ears on the transfer end of the shaft. A simple (professional) recap of the end will fix the shaft.

The damage is enough that I dare not press a new cap and think it will be fine to drive. I'll take a pic or two and post it up.


Troy B
Ft Hood, TX

 

[Fordum]

Judging from what you say, you are posting a request for the wrong part.
You don't need a shaft, you need the yoke for the transfer case.

Which means, you need to figure out which yoke it is. The two parts that you need to determine, is the size of the U-joint, there are different sizes and yours might have been upgraded.
Also, which transfer case and how many splines.

Odds are someone here has one, if not, they are available from lots of places new through mail order.

The picture might be enough for the experts here to tell. I run Fords, so I'm not going to know right offhand.

 

[Lunatic]

Every silver spot inside the cap hole is a new groove - Not good

All yokes are good. The 208 transfer yoke actually still has the joint in it (Which will be replaced). The 10 bolt diff yoke was not effected at all.

I'm pretty sure I'm looking at a stock shaft. I mic'd the joint I have from the diff end and it came to 1.122 cap OD and the assembled T (joint) mic'd out at 3.65x3.66

I can grab any other info that someone else thinks of - I don't know what else to provide.



Troy B
Ft Hood, TX

 

[Fordum]

About the only thing they will need is year and model. If its stock, somebody should have one.
A good driveshaft/machine shop should be able to put you on a new yoke. Is that the slip joint end?

Looks like it was the factory joints going by the little nub where the plastic was injected to lock them.
Somebody here should be able to help more than me.
Snap another pic showing the whole shaft. That might help.

 

[K85 Octane]

bummer, gave mine to a scraper

give us a measurement from end to end and joint sizes, if it's all stock 1310 I think

 

[THRILLBILLY]

I don't know how often you come to Dallas, but there is a driveshaft shop here that I've used several times and they are good, resonably priced, and don't try to sell you on something you don't need. It's called Collin County Truck Parts, (972)-562-4352. Call and ask to speak to Mario if you don't have luck anywhere else. They built both my shafts for mine after I lifted it sky high.

 

[Lunatic]

The drive shaft in the background is from a 2500 GMC reg cab p/u. Looked good in the yard but when I got home and mic'd it - hair larger cap OD. The different size thing. I am nothing near drive shaft savy.

K85 Octane - Thats the thing - I dont know how to reference the size of the joints.... 1310 means....thirteen-ten... to me - lol I will be schoo-gling universal joints later tonight though. Thanks for the input

THRILLBILLY - Thanks for the information - I do get up there from time to time - Often enough to consider it. That's actually where I was returning from last Sunday (Irving/Dallas).


Troy B
Ft Hood, TX

 

[Lunatic]

So, I've been checking into this for the past hour, comparing information on different sites.

My 1986 GMC Jimmy has 3R Series joints.

I brought home (The shaft in the back ground of the pic above) a shaft with 1350s.

And, I also found another solution (which I didn't know existed of course) - An adapter joint - 3R inner ring one direction / 1350 outer ring the other direction. $30 each on sale. (Link)

I'd still prefer the original shaft though.

So this is coming down to finding a machine shop for under $75 to re-cap (as I'm calling it anyway) the damaged end, the adapter joints for approx $75 shipped, or a member of the brotherhood finding/having an original shaft (and willing to part with it) at a reasonable cost.




My deadline is actually 2 weeks away - I will need the truck at that point 100% certain, no way around it.



Troy B
Ft Hood, TX

 

[warwgn]

Your yoke is not that bad looking at the pics, I would need to install the joint myself to be sure but you just need a couple new 3R joints and put it together. Lightly run a die grinder around the inside of the yoke where the cap rides to clean the burs up then install the joint. The yoke in this case uses imside snaprings and those areas look fine in the pics and most of the surface tthe caps seats against looks good too.

Take it to a drivelins shop and it can be fixed, eaisly and shouls not be too much. i would recomend a straighten and balance too. If you cant find a local shop, call drivelines inc in california ask for Wade King, and tell him Dustin refered you. Send him what you got and he will fix you up for a great price.

I worked there way back in the day. I have both my drivelines out to him getting lenghtened and balanced and new joints, basicly two new drive shafts shipped to my door for $560.00 so yours will be much cheaper.

Here is the link.

http://www.drivelinesinc.com/

 

[Lunatic]

Solution - I have the 1350 shaft with combination joints on the truck now.

Thanks to those who offered their help, suggestions, and knowledge.




Troy B
Ft Hood, TX

 

[bronc3buster842001]

Just for future reference... The 2 door 4x4 S10 Blazers have a rear shaft that is like 30 inches long... The 95 up body style will also have the right yoke to fit the 208 or 241 case...

I cant remember if the 4 door blazers have shorter or longer shaft...