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Axle offset plates

Cool idea, I need something like this for the front of my rig.

I would assume you would need to bore a hole in the spring plate so it can fit over the hex head bolt? Any reason why you can't use a socket head bolt with a smaller OD (bolt head)?
 
Any issues with using the 1/2" offset in addition to 1 1/2" offset on a set of DIY4X perches to move the axle back a total of 2"
 
Any issues with using the 1/2" offset in addition to 1 1/2" offset on a set of DIY4X perches to move the axle back a total of 2"

There actually is trouble with that.

We stop at 1-1/2" because that's the most you can offset it and keep the center pin (in the spring) clamped under the u-bolt system. If you offset it more, the center pin holes in the leaf springs get outside of the clamping force from the u-bolts and the springs break really easy that way.
 
There actually is trouble with that.

We stop at 1-1/2" because that's the most you can offset it and keep the center pin (in the spring) clamped under the u-bolt system. If you offset it more, the center pin holes in the leaf springs get outside of the clamping force from the u-bolts and the springs break really easy that way.

Makes sense. That's why I asked.
 
Installing a 14bsf where a 10 bolt used to be in an otherwise stock (height) 88k5. According to the 14bsf forum posts scattered around, the drive shaft would end up being a little too long (estimates are from 3/8' to 1"). My thought is to use these at the 1/2" mark to eliminate the need to have the drive shaft trimmed down. Oh, and I'm going to swap over the 1310 yoke from the 10 bolt to the 14sf. Anyone else done this before....?
 
shorten a shaft cheeper than lengthen .

and if swapping yokes you better know how to play with crush sleaves for the pinion bearing pre-load . or get a crush sleave eliminator kit and do it that way if you have the tools.

also make sure you don't need a oddball seal for the swap . I did a 10bolt yoke on a 12bolt axle and it was a odd size seal for a front axle application . . . part # is in my 2wheel burn build.
 
Thanks for the heads up. I have new crush sleeves and pinion nuts to use (I always order spares :-). I'll also be setting up gears in the new housing. Waiting on a shim kit, as the old shims didn't cut it for the backlash and pinion depth. Will be pulling the yoke from the 10b tomorrow to measure and compare, but my understanding is that it's a straight swap. I actually did a crush sleeve eliminator in my front 10b when I swapped from 3.08's to 3.73's with True-Trac. I like them. I just didn't manage to find anyone offering one for a 14bsf or I would have ordered it.
 
Just picked these up. My 87 1/2 ton suburban has a smaller center pin. I don't know if they are stock or replaced by PO.
Is there a solution for this?
 
the head portion ? ? or the threaded portion ? ?

lots of our old rigs need a die grinder to clean out the rust in the pin hole back to a workable size .
 
The center pinch bolt (running through the spring pack). New bolts are 5/8 . Stock bolt is about 1/2".
Thought about over sizing the hole in the plate and using a quick thread. Didn't want to reinvent the wheel if there was a solution out there.
 

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