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Axle relocation with A-Tron offsets **PIC**

T

txbartman

1/2 ton status
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Jun 1, 2001
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Plano, TX
Here is a good side shot of my rig with the new axle locations. I used the A-Tron axle offsets. The front D60 was moved forward 1.5". The rear 14BFF was moved back 1". You can tell the difference in this shot. I will have some pics up in a couple of weeks on my website detailing the installation process. Quite simple and great hardware!
axlerelocation.jpg
 
Looks good, this may be a stupid question. Is the relocation just for better attack and departure angles? or is there more to be gained? I would guess the front would give a little more room for tires.
 
You pretty well nailed it. I moved the fornt forward to provide more room for the larger tires without increasing lift. I only run 5" suspension lift (including the offsets) and 3" BL. Without moving the axle forward, I may have had contact between the tire and the tub/firewall.

On the rear, one of my biggest problems is dragging the but when I come off ledges or try to go up them. Moving the rear back an inch should make a pretty good impact on this.

One other advantage is that in both cases, it helps reduce driveline angles as well.
 
that looks awsome. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gifdo you any links for axle offsets could not find any with a quick search. jonathan
 
Did you use tappered offsets? if so how did you determine how far you can rotate the front without causing steering problems? is there an angle that the knuckles can't go beyond without wandering? I haven't installed my D60 yet, I'm thinking of doing this now.
 
I did not use a tapered offset. My driveshaft angle itself is not much different than on the rear shaft and I do not have my tcase lowered (which would compound the angle).

In addition, I spoke with several people including the folks at A-Tron. They felt that shimming a front D60 is detrimental. The advantage for doing this is to decrease driveline vibrations. My setup is not full-time 4WD (not a 203) and I don't run at highway speeds with the hubs locked. As a result, there was no need to have the pinion yoke point at the tcase yoke. Rotating the D60 some is believed to help increase the possibilities of death wobble as well. Not to mention the impact to both caster and camber.
 
How do you keep your front driveline from making contact with the tranny crossmember under full flex, because I also have not lowered my tranfercase but my front driveline makes contact and I only have a 4'' suspension lift?

Also, I was thinking about moving just my front axle forward 1.5'' but was wondering if it had any adverse affects on sterring components?
Thanks /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
 
In the past, with 4" lift and 35s, I had my 208 tcase lowered. You can see some marks on the front DS where it impacted the crossmember (paint removed), but nothing major. Now I run a 205. It's crossmember is different and should not cause interference. moving your front axle forward should also help this as it reduces the angle of the DS. The only connections from your axle to any other part of the vehicle are:

1. brake lines (they should reach)
2. shocks (no problems there)
3. springs (need offset blocks and drill hole in spring plate)
4. DS (need to make sure it will still reach)
5. drag link on stock steering (will need to shorten it)

Should not have any other problems.
 
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