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Axle swap dilema

398HBX said:
It shifts hard when shifting out of park. Also when driving, it sometimes will not shift down. I think that a good flush and fluid exchange should fix most of the problems. My other car could be considered a minivan, it's a 95 K2500, Suburban, 4x4, 454, HD variant. :). AFter doing more reading, I am getting pretty excited about the whole axle, tranny, t-case swap. I think it will make the Blazer a much better overall vehicle. Now I just have to finish building the carport...
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Well, I wouldn't consider that a minivan, especially not with a 4L80E in it.
One thing, when you are driving do you just mash the gas or try to "regulate" the pedal with your foot? The best way I found with Big Ugly was to pretty much just put my foot down and it would accelerate and BANG go through the gears correctly. If I started soft footing it or letting off after a shift it would always do something odd. I think that's what my dad was doing.
82355 said:
Why not swap everything from the Blazer back to the Suburban, and then sell it as a complete vehicle when you are done?

Martin
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I believe he has an extra TH350 he mentioned.
 
A buddy here at work wants to buy the enigine out of the 86 Suburban. That will leave me without a working vehicle anyway. I will use a lot of parts from the burb for the Blazer, ie. axles, tranny, t-case, gas tank, alternator, starter, wiper motors,taillights, mastercyliner, etc. When I am done stripping it, there will not be much left but the frame and the body. If anyone needs a rust free 86 Suburban body, doors, hood, etc, please let me know. I actually have two TH350's that I will not need. One is the original out of the Blazer and the other is a new B&M. One thing I am not sure of and that is will my B&M torque converter work with the TH400 or will I need to use the one from the 86 burb?
 
You'll need a TH400 one I believe.

Random but you might look into if the Burb tank will fit the Blazer. I'm thinking it won't bolt in.
 
aj the big 41 gal burb tanks wont bolt into the k5 as far as im aware, but if you swap in a burb tank you need to take the straps as well.




Oh ya, i need a heater/ac control cable for an 83-87, and id prefer a good shape gm cable if you are gonna part it out. As well as the heater controls off the dash.



And youll have better luck parting it out so that you dont have to make driveshafts to keep the burb running.
 
I think I read somewhere that the tank won't physically fit. can't remember if it was frame or crossmember related.
 
ya for whatever reason i read that the 41s wont fit, although ive never tried. It can be made to work though, but honestly do you need 41 gallons and that much size in the back? haha. unless its a 4 day trail run i say no.
 
I looked into swapping a 41 gal into a Blazer and there is no good way. It is much longer front to rear than the K5 tanks and not tapered the same way. So it would hang down too far in the back and get hit by the rear differential in the front.
 
Hey, I was looking at the "build sheet" for the Suburban and I found out that it has a factory installed "locking differential", RPO code 1G80. I have searched the internet and found that it could either be a poistraction or a limited slip. Does this mean for both axles or just the rear? Is there really any difference? My original plan was to buy a Detroit Locker for the rear and a ARB for the front. Now I am not sure I need to get. Any suggestions?
 
It's just the G80 Grenade Lock. Gov-Lock. Sorta a locker, mostly a POS. Get a Detroit and toss it in the scrap pile.
 
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