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Axle Trouble

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waltergronkite

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Im in the middle of doing an axles swap on my 1972 K5 blazer. Ive gone from a Danna-44/12 bolt 3:73 combo to a newer (unknown but maybe mid 80's) 10-bolt/14 bolt ff 4:56. Im having some serious issues with stuff just not quite working out. Does anyone know if the steering drag links are the same for these periods? i dont seem to be able to get the steering arm side far enough in with the torque spec to get the cotter pin through? Any ideas? Are the drag links different?
 
I went the other way with no issues. But the d44 I put in was late 70's not early.
 
I believe the drag link ends are all the same from about 1970 to 87,maybe a Dana 44 has a slightly different tapered hole though ?..--if your drag link fits the original steering arm OK,I think they will fit the 10 bolts also,you could swap it..
 
Yeah i was thinking about swapping the steering arm but they are a SOB to get off! According to rock auto all the part numbers are the same between years for the drag link. Its wierd that they would change the taper
 
I'd tend to think maybe the drag link end was not made to specs,it might be a cheap one that didn't get inspected too closely..
I find it hard to believe the steering arm hole is different between the 2 axles ..
 
This might help, or muddy the waters to the point no one can figure it out............
My F250 (FORD!!), I know, I know.....Has a Dana 44. Obviously you did not accidentally put a Ford Dana on, since they are different side drops.
But, on my 3/4 ton model, Ford used either a Dana 44, supposedly a Dana 44HD, or a Dana 60.

All the years of my model that uses a 44, would seem to use the same tie rod ends. Not so. I have never seen one, but I have it on good authority that on some models, such as ambulance versions, they had a larger TRE shaft and, I assume, a different taper.
Whether that is the 44HD, or just a special 44 I do not know.

I wish I knew the particulars, because I have a problem with the adjustment sleeve stripping out on the passenger side from time to time. And a larger shaft might help. It does not strip from normal load, there is a long run to that side, and the up and down flex as I hit bumps wallows it out.

How does this affect your problem? Not sure. I cannot believe that the factory put different TREs on Chevy 44s without someone here knowing about it But, if Dana made different tapers for 44s, for Fords or others, maybe one of them wound up on yours.
Either from the factory or a PO.

Something to consider.
 
had a problem like this on a lift kit . they didn't run the tapper reamer in the correct depth and made the tie rod end not fit and even come close to getting even 1/2 of a cotter pin in the hole even after I removed some of the base of the nut . they wound up sending me a new unit and return tag for the bad one after lots of phone calls . the 2nd one fit like a glove .

so there is some diffrences in parts and looks like you found the bad end of it . ether swap the arm or try removing some nut material if its only a hair lacking or new end .
 
As long as the drag link end fits the knuckle taper tightly and the nut has a few threads of stud sticking out once it is tight,I wouldn't be afraid to just drill another hole in it for the cotter pin...
I've had vehicles with no cotter pins on a tie rod or ball joint when I got them,found out the pins were either broke off in the stud,or left out,or rotted away and fell out...the nuts stayed tight..if torqued to specs I doubt they ever would loosen up enough to come off...
 
Just ordered another one and ill have to see what happens. Projects always turn out to be fun! Ill report back on fitment when i try it
 
The DLE and TRE taper angle are the same, but GM DLEs are bigger and therefore the taper runs in deeper.
 
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