ok i have an 89 k5 blazer with military 1/2 tons. i have a 75 k5 blazer with 1/2 tons. my front 75k5 driveshaft fits my 89k5 military dana44 yoke great. my rear 75k5 drive shaft u joint is to small for my rear axle on the 89. the 75 is a 12 bolt. the 89 is a 10 bolt military. is there anything that makes my 10 bolt military axle better than my stock 12 bolt? is there any difference between my dana 44 and military dana 44 front? what can i do to make 75k5 driveshaft fit the military 10 bolt?
CK5
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axle troubles
- Thread starter big sexy
- Start date
The military front end is not a Dana 44, it's a corporate 10 bolt.
The military rear axle uses a 3R u-joint, the 75 uses a 1310. I don't know if they make an adapter joint for that.
If you're choosing between the two axles, both of the 75 axles are better but not by a ton. The 75 has slightly bigger axle shafts and a flat top passenger side knuckle in case you ever go to crossover steering and the rear axle is slightly stronger. Not much difference though.
The military rear axle uses a 3R u-joint, the 75 uses a 1310. I don't know if they make an adapter joint for that.
If you're choosing between the two axles, both of the 75 axles are better but not by a ton. The 75 has slightly bigger axle shafts and a flat top passenger side knuckle in case you ever go to crossover steering and the rear axle is slightly stronger. Not much difference though.
jamber2541
1/2 ton status
they do make the its a 1310 -1330 i think
so there is a u joint that will adapt?
so my 75 axles are better?
Like 38377k5 pointed out, the 44 front is "better" because of its right knuckle. It's not really any stronger than the 10 bolt as most of the time what breaks is the axle u-joint and they both use the same one. The 12 bolt rear is a little stronger than the 10 but only a little. Not sure if it's worth all the work to change it out or not. If you do, the u-joint for that is a Spicer 5-3022X. I think it's discontinued but that number can be crossed to other brands.
10 bolt and 12 bolt yokes swap over . just need to use a conversion seal .
i swaped a 10 bolt yoke on to my 12 bolt rear and only had to use a front pinion seal for a 10 bolt front aplication.
read here : http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3300721&postcount=332
if doing this make sure you know what your doing . you can over crush the crush sleave and fyi a ring/pinion set. best to do new one or solid sleave kit in its place.
i swaped a 10 bolt yoke on to my 12 bolt rear and only had to use a front pinion seal for a 10 bolt front aplication.
read here : http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3300721&postcount=332
if doing this make sure you know what your doing . you can over crush the crush sleave and fyi a ring/pinion set. best to do new one or solid sleave kit in its place.
True, you could swap yokes, but for most people it is way better to just use a conversion joint. Messing around with pinion preload isn't worth it on a 12 bolt. Plus, I would rather blow a weak u-joint than a rear end. Way easier to get it home. But, not having to use the conversion joint is nice.
yep .
mine was out of convience / apart already / rusted up beyond use 12 bolt yoke .
just made sense for me to swap it over .
but if you can find the tric / conversion joint its fine . i have run them in the past no problems .
mine was out of convience / apart already / rusted up beyond use 12 bolt yoke .
just made sense for me to swap it over .
but if you can find the tric / conversion joint its fine . i have run them in the past no problems .
