Axle U-joint part #'s?

[BigEasy]

Ok, I've got my front end torn down to replace the ball joints, and I figured now would be a good time to install new axle u-joints too. I went to Napa and got the joints, beat the hell outta the old ones removing them, and now it appears the new ones are about 1/4" too long (can get 1 inner c-clip on, but not the other). Napa # is 210-0297, cross referenced from a 5-297x. I called 2 other Napas and they both said that is the right part #. I checked all 4 axle yokes to see if one or 2 were bent, and they are all straight with the same inner diameter. I tried squeezing the caps down with a c-clamp so that I could get the other clip on, but it put so much on the joint that it wouldn't pivot at all, and I STILL couldn't get the c-clip on. Does anybody know exactly what brand/part # u-joint I can get to bolt this back together? I've got a 'wheeling trip that I'm supposed to leave for friday night and this thing's gotta get bolted back together!

 

[Hossbaby50]

Spicer 5-760x or 760x. You might be able to get them at Napa or Carquest but a driveshaft or four wheeling shop would be your best bet.

Autozone Brute Force joints are decent ujoints also. They are made by neapco. Neapco are decent ujoints too. Napa Precision ujoints are junk.

Harley

 

[Zeus33rd]

Sounds to me like a needle bearing fell over when you installed the joint and is now laying in the bottom of the cap preventing it from seating all the way. That is the right part # for a 10b/d44. 5-297 is an older part #, but still the right one. Pull it all apart again and I bet you have some needle bearings laying in the bottom of the cap.

 

[barneybasher1010]

Sounds to me like a needle bearing fell over when you installed the joint and is now laying in the bottom of the cap preventing it from seating all the way. That is the right part # for a 10b/d44. 5-297 is an older part #, but still the right one. Pull it all apart again and I bet you have some needle bearings laying in the bottom of the cap.

X2 I had the same problem but i "made it work" and broke one of the caps

 

[Zeus33rd]

X2 I had the same problem but i "made it work" and broke one of the caps

How the hell did you break a cap? I've broken lots of needle bearings trying to force the cap in when a bearing was at the bottom...But breaking a cap? Damn dude.

 

[Leper]

I broke one on Sunday. Damn CV fronts!!!! 1 little needle and a whole lotta hammer. lol

 

[AZ79K5Project]

How the hell did you break a cap? I've broken lots of needle bearings trying to force the cap in when a bearing was at the bottom...But breaking a cap? Damn dude.

That would have been my same response...until today DAMN IT ALL TO HELL...

Its amazing how much force it takes to blow out a Spicer cap - Not much...

Anyways - anyone know of anything comparable to the Spicer? I really don't want to wait until Monday to get the parts and next weekend to put it back together.

 

[barneybasher1010]

I put it in a vice. it was a spicer conversion joint too!

 

[AZ79K5Project]

I was using a large C-clamp (ball joint/u-joint type of manual press). I pressed the cap in, all was good until I heard a nasty "pop". Three needle bearings fell over inside the cap preventing it from seating properly.

Lesson learned. I'm getting three new Spicers. One to replace the dead one and two spares to carry.

My signature says it all.

 

[BigEasy]

I got 'em to go in. After trashing the first set of Napa joints trying to figure out what the hell was going on, I located my digital dial caliper and took some measurements. I found that all 8 yoke ears were bent in. Not sure how that happened since I removed them carefully in a vice using sockets as spacers, but it happened. Each cross measured 2.10-2.20 inches at the tips of the ears, but 2.85+/- at the base of the ears. I went back to the vise and after an hour's work with a BFH I had yokes that measured 2.90+/- inches at the ends (and a sore right arm). Then a new set of Neapco U-joints went right in like normal.