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axle wrap reduction without hurting flex

vortec

1/2 ton status
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Jul 22, 2004
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fort worth, texas
i broke BOTH u-joints on the rear d-shaft, saturday (posted pics on here, sunday) and i'd like to control my axle wrap to avoid having the same thing happen again. would these help reduce wrap without hurting my flex too much?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2005971/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2005971/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=traction

this makes me have second thoughts about lifting the truck. everal months ago, i got a great deal on a rancho kit that had only been on a mall-crawler, and i was going to use the blocks for a while, decide if i like the new height offroad, then get a shackle flip. but a lift would give me worse driveline angle to begin with, and the blocks would just make the wrap worse.
 
IMO I don' think it will work if you are getting a lot of flex (i.e. 52" fronts w/ 56" or 63" rears). I would save my coin & get a wrapter from Kert or something similiar.
 
i dont think thats gonna suffice. the less block you have the less wrap so a shackle flip is really close the the least wrap you can get with the stock rear spring. then accompanied with a mild traction bar with a heim joint at the frame end i think you wont suffer much.
 
looks like that's only for 14blt, unless i skipped part of the description. i'm on the stock 10blt for as long as it lasts. it would be a different story if i got to wheel as often as i'd like.

i don't usually get that much wrap, but this obstacle was tricky and traction was inconsistent at best. spinning tires, then getting sudden traction is a recipe for disaster. the jeep that went in front of me was in 4lo with both diffs locked and he was still sliding backwards. he made it eventually, but had to get a run at it and bent his bumper in the process.
 
I think with this particular break you made some driving errors that led to axle wrap and it may not be as severe an issue as you think.

I would build a taction bar that attaches somewhere around the T-case crossmember on a shackle. This will allow full droop and comprssion of the rear suspension with minimal binding

edit: Here ya go... http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201237&highlight=shackle+traction+bar
 
I think with this particular break you made some driving errors that led to axle wrap and it may not be as severe an issue as you think.

you're absolutely right about that. i'm ususally very careful with the throttle offroad, but this time to avoid sliding backwards like everyone else, i gave it more than i was really comfortable with, especially since i'm rusty (not my rig :wink1: ). even the guys that took the easy line had some issues. i made a questionable choice.
 
I made a mistake , and got axle wrap . Its called 4.56 gears and larger tires coupled with a rear shackle flip that rides nice and smooth ( my rear rides better than my front ) :laugh:

Mine isn't real bad right now , but I am going to nip it in the bud soon .
 
looks like that's only for 14blt, unless i skipped part of the description. i'm on the stock 10blt for as long as it lasts. it would be a different story if i got to wheel as often as i'd like.

Sorry, you didn;t list what axle you had, so I figured it was a 14b. You can buy the wrapter parts from Kert & build it to fit whatever you like, that is what I did. I put mine on a D70HD rear.

PA080005.jpg


PA080006.jpg
 
Boz42,

What are you using for the "wristed" joint and have you had any breakage?
 
DIY4X has a Wraptor system that is capable of rotating (twisting). I've got one installed on my K5 and it works GREAT! No wheel hop, good flex, and very easy to install. Heavy duty too. I am just a customer satisfied, don't have any interest in the company. Just my two cents.

wraptor 5.jpg

wraptor 6.jpg
 
I'm making one with tractor joints soon since I'm cheap. I'll post pics in my build thread

Or bushings, I'm not sure yet
 
Good thread. I can't help but wondering about Trustys set up (From old link in prior post) if I understand correctly the two blue bars are separate but it seems like since one end is mounted at the pinion and the other at the rear cover the two different lengths would fight eachother- even though each can pivot on their separate shackel up front. I dunno- this stuff makes my head hurt. [head shake]
 
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