Axles

[MagnuM4WD]

Hi! Can you tell me, there is any kind of difference, between front axle, from Blazer (6 lug, 2 shock absorbers) and front axle from Suburban (8 lug, 4 shock absorbers), like shock absorbers brackets, brakes, max. load capacity, bearings, lenght, etc.? Bouth have diff. on the passenger side, 3.73 end ratio and they are GM 10bolt. Mine, have 1760 mm lenght (between flat surfaces, where the wheels are mounting). Just curious!

I find also, a 14bff, from a 3500 pickup, with the same end ratio (3.73) and I wish to replace, my 14bsf, with that. Can I do that, with no problems (yokes, drive shaft, springs position, etc.)? My 14bsf, have 1700 mm lenght. What lenght have 14bff? Is from a 3500, with single rear wheels, 7.4L gas engine (454 cid) and MT.

I ask you, because, the parts, are on the other side of the country (600 km) and I did't see them, yet. The owner, have a K5 (from where is the front axle GM) and buy the 3500, for engine, MT and front axle (Dana 60).

 

[Confedneck79K30]

if the 3500 has a dana 60, dont waste your time swapping in another 10 bolt, put the 60 inand the 14bff, they will both bolt directly to your spring plates, you will need to get different ujoints to make the axles work though

 

[MagnuM4WD]

if the 3500 has a dana 60, dont waste your time swapping in another 10 bolt, put the 60 inand the 14bff, they will both bolt directly to your spring plates, you will need to get different ujoints to make the axles work though

About 10bolt, it was just curiosity. I can't have the Dana 60, because the owner use it, on his K5! All I can take, is: front GM 10 bolt - from K5 (just for spare parts - if is like the one, I have it on my truck, already - for moment, mine, is work fine) and, rear GM 14bff, wich, I believe, is better (stronger) then my GM 14bsf and I wish to use it, if it match. So, I'm really interested on that 14bff. For this axle, I need different U-joints?

 

[JEBSR]

The 10 bolt will bolt in with no problems, however the perches on a 1 ton axle are 1" off. A 3/4 ton 14 blt ff with bolt right in but the 1 ton has the perches 1" off and the shock mounts are reversed. Width and all are the same though so if you can cut and weld you can just move the perches and mounts.

 

[Slapperbar]

Go for it.

 

[87BrnRsd]

if the 3500 has a dana 60, dont waste your time swapping in another 10 bolt, put the 60 inand the 14bff, they will both bolt directly to your spring plates, you will need to get different ujoints to make the axles work though

Partly correct. Your right about one part....if there is a D60 up front on the 1-ton, then dont swap in the 10 bolt from the suburban. The D60 is MUCH stronger and more desirable.

As far as the 14ff...it WILL NOT bolt directly to your spring plates. The front D60 will bolt right up (with the exception of the u-joint), but since its a 3500 (1-ton) truck, the 14ff will need to be modified. The spring perches on a 3500 1-ton are 40.5" from spring center pin to spring center pin. Our trucks (1/2 ton) are 42.5" spring center pin to spring center pin. Therefore, the perches on the 14ff will need to be moved out 1" on BOTH sides. The shock mounts are also opposite on the 14ff, and will need to be cut off and reversed. Your also going to need new u-bolts (if you cant get them off the donor truck), and new u-joints. The 14ff uses a bigger u-joint than the 10 bolt or 14sf. You can buy a conversion u-joint....but the easiest thing to do is grab the driveshaft off the 1-ton donor truck and have a driveshaft shop cut off the yolk and weld it onto your driveshaft.

You will also need to grind some metal off of the top of the brake calipers on the D60 if your trying to use 15" wheels.
-Harrison

 

[87BrnRsd]

The 10 bolt will bolt in with no problems, however the perches on a 1 ton axle are 1" off. A 3/4 ton 14 blt ff with bolt right in but the 1 ton has the perches 1" off and the shock mounts are reversed. Width and all are the same though so if you can cut and weld you can just move the perches and mounts.

As stated...the 1 ton axle's spring perches are 2" off. 1" on BOTH sides....
-Harrison

 

[MagnuM4WD]

Partly correct. Your right about one part....if there is a D60 up front on the 1-ton, then dont swap in the 10 bolt from the suburban. The D60 is MUCH stronger and more desirable.

As far as the 14ff...it WILL NOT bolt directly to your spring plates. The front D60 will bolt right up (with the exception of the u-joint), but since its a 3500 (1-ton) truck, the 14ff will need to be modified. The spring perches on a 3500 1-ton are 40.5" from spring center pin to spring center pin. Our trucks (1/2 ton) are 42.5" spring center pin to spring center pin. Therefore, the perches on the 14ff will need to be moved out 1" on BOTH sides. The shock mounts are also opposite on the 14ff, and will need to be cut off and reversed. Your also going to need new u-bolts (if you cant get them off the donor truck), and new u-joints. The 14ff uses a bigger u-joint than the 10 bolt or 14sf. You can buy a conversion u-joint....but the easiest thing to do is grab the driveshaft off the 1-ton donor truck and have a driveshaft shop cut off the yolk and weld it onto your driveshaft.

You will also need to grind some metal off of the top of the brake calipers on the D60 if your trying to use 15" wheels.
-Harrison

You make me confuse... a little... That axle - 14bff, from pickup double cab 3500, I want to put it on a Suburban 2500, not on a K5.

 

[MagnuM4WD]

I HAVE A 14BFF, FOR MY TRUCK!!! I buy it and I bring it home!!!
Tanks for your support!

 

[randy88k5]

Good deal. If you have anymore questions, I'm sure we can find an answer for you.

 

[beater_k20]

Your also going to need new u-bolts (if you cant get them off the donor truck), and new u-joints.

partially correct. you will need new u-bolts, DO NOT REUSE THEM! they're too cheap to worry about the stockers stretching out and coming loose. if they come loose, you're in for a hell of a ride. doesnt matter if its a steer axle or not, because with loose u-bolts, they both become steer axles, with no way to conrtol them.