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Ok here is a couple pics. The drive shaft is at 33 1/2 at ride height. It extends to 35 and goes in 32 inches. How does that sound as far as travel goes?? and I read that if you grind off about 1/8 inch on the cardan joint you can get more angle from it. How does that sound to you guys.
Yes sir on the stops i flap disked mine a LONG time ago no issues i actually need to do it a little more. But i just ordered front axle shims so I'm going to wait and see how it looks after they are installed. That much slip should be fine sounds like it is almost center of stroke.
Its nice to see a Little work getting done now you can drive it in front wheel drive to the exhaust shop, Get this thing on the trail, ( you're drive way don't count even if it is dirt.)
ok ladies here is a little more progress made today when I pulled the transfer case and headed down to Brians shop. He welded it up with the TIG welder and stainless wire I just need to put it back in the truck and make sure everything works the way we planned it to work. Also a big thank you to JB custom fab for working with me on this and having lots of patience.
well we wanted to keep the hole on the front rail as close to the rail as possible so there would be more force going in and out rather than side to side. I think this set up works well. It shifts really nice and there is no binding that we could feel. I hope to get it in the truck after work today and see how it all works out.
Oh and Matt I had a longer bolt that bottoms out with one more washer on the inside. I will put some felt in between the shifters too to help with rattle.
Ya i figured on the force thing i think on mine it is bolted on top of the plate at the t case not the bottom hard to tell in the pic if that part is level?
I have no felt and no rattles and the stick shifts seem to jump around more than the auto's.
I think it was just more of life getting in the way and not really wanting to bother people to help get it together. I thought I could do it by explaining things to the guy but it was just easier to pull the whole thing out again and take it to Brians to weld it right.
Further review the tab should come out and then bend a bit 20 or 30 degrees like an L shape but flatter. Then the hiem would be on the same plain and level as the other one.
With the hiem at an angle like that it will wear it and put a twist force on the shift rail not a good thing.
Wow Dean, never peeked my eye balls in here before. Nice build man, great progress. When I get the rail finished I will have to take a run out and pay you a visit and see how things are going.
ok its out again and Im gonna take it by Brians place tomorrow to hopefully finish it up. the hole wont be in the bend and i think the heim will be on top so it will be flat. you can see the hole has been moved now 3 times.