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Back In the Saddle Again

Got my DIY4X 10b weld it your self diff cover in. Anyone running one they burned in themselves? My idea is to make it more D44 shaped so I don’t carry as much shame running a 10b right now :rotfl:
 
I am about to put in my order for rotors, pads, ball joints and u joints for the front axle. Im thinking I will inspect the wheel bearings and see if they are shot before ordering. Those are easy enough to change while the axle is under the truck. I am going to keep the M/M hubs for now and keep the ones off the 6 lug for back up.

I got my steering frame kit from amazon but haven't had a chance to measure it and compare to ORD thickness.

I haven't made it to car mountain yet to grab the 2wd gear box.

Really want to get this done because the ORD drag link is back ordered right now and I cant order that or the tie rod until the axle is under the truck for measurements.

but I should be getting into this front axle here shortly.

Need to grab some steel and get on it.
 
I got everything gathered to complete the front axle.

I haven’t had a free moment to get out in the garage after the kid was born. Everything has been crazy and I haven’t slept much. Need shielding gas/oxy/ace so been procrastinating like a champ lol

Well, I did snag me a NV4500.

Which means my TH350 will replace my dads 700rpuke in his Burb. I was thinking we could swap transfer cases (he had the 241) but looks like it is a 27 spline as well. So I’m on the hunt for a 32 spline input shaft. Found one on eBay for $100. Might go that route if someone here can’t take my money.

Got a 87 manual c2500 up at car mountain with my pedal assembly etc., I’m going to go snag bright and early Saturday before the sun hits too hard. I’m more worried about rattlesnakes out there than I am about anything else.
 
Got out first thing in the AM and got to that 87’ got the hydro clutch assembly w/master and res. Was a bitch to get to as I had to crawl under a bunch of stacked vehicles haha no snakes so that’s cool

I did bust the brake switch getting it out so hope I can find another one.

Didn’t die and saved $ can’t beat freeA8B5373E-C4FE-4255-989B-FB21D9F9118C.jpeg320287FB-FE90-45D3-A92C-EDB922299BDF.jpeg
 
Yep so need to find a slave cylinder.

what do you 5speeders recomend on the early units?

I have heard something about a GTO slave cylinder as the line doesnt need to be spliced to the master?
 
Yep so need to find a slave cylinder.

what do you 5speeders recomend on the early units?

I have heard something about a GTO slave cylinder as the line doesnt need to be spliced to the master?
The gto unit is an internal slave. Your early bell takes an external one. Your best bet is to get the gmt400 external save and release bearing and adapt the line to the squarebody clutch master cylinder.

@Capt Ron has that setup on his Crawlabago. He should be able to chime in on what he used.
 
Yep so need to find a slave cylinder.

what do you 5speeders recomend on the early units?

I have heard something about a GTO slave cylinder as the line doesnt need to be spliced to the master?
I thought I put one in the bag with the bellhousing? No?
If not pm me your shipping address and I will send you one but it might be better to start with a new one.
@Capt Ron has that setup on his Crawlabago. He should be able to chime in on what he used.
I use an adapter fitting from Swedgelock.
The part # is not in my build thread but I will see if I can find it.
If I remember correctly the stock hyd squarebody steel line is slightly smaller then the nylon 4500 line.
 
I thought I put one in the bag with the bellhousing? No?
If not pm me your shipping address and I will send you one but it might be better to start with a new one.

I use an adapter fitting from Swedgelock.
The part # is not in my build thread but I will see if I can find it.
If I remember correctly the stock hyd squarebody steel line is slightly smaller then the nylon 4500 line.
Ill double check in there but I am a fan of going new anyways.

Awesome. Let me know that part number.

Did you have any issues bleeding the system mounting the res in the stock location?
 
I plan on converting the 4wd selector to using a cable and moving it out of the way of the trans shifter.
The 208/241 shifter clears the 4500 easily. The only thing that interferes is the stock bulky plastic housing is in the way of the stock 4500 shifter boot. I used a 205 shifter boot and ring in place of the plastic housing. Even then you have a notch the corner of the 205 bezel to clear the 4500 boot.

Mechanically the 4500 trans and shifter clear the 208/241 shifter with a lot to spare.
 
The 208/241 shifter clears the 4500 easily. The only thing that interferes is the stock bulky plastic housing is in the way of the stock 4500 shifter boot. I used a 205 shifter boot and ring in place of the plastic housing. Even then you have a notch the corner of the 205 bezel to clear the 4500 boot.

Mechanically the 4500 trans and shifter clear the 208/241 shifter with a lot to spare.
Yeah I just really dont want a notch on anything want it too look like it was meant to be there. I did find this dual boot I was thinking of using it backwards and it might work without modification.Shifter boot.jpg
 
In my research the 80’s dodge transfercases were on the same side, same shift pattern but had a shift lever more like a stick, which is what I want. I’m probably going to retro fit an older power wagon unit in or modify the existing to accept a stick.
 
That boot is slick! What’s the part number on that guy?

Don’t forget you can flip the 208 stick around to sit straighter up than leaned forward in 2hi.

IMG_3936.jpeg
 

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