CK5
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Back In the Saddle Again

Yep

yes, doesn’t fit at all. Doesn’t over lap. Correctly, cheap thin junk. I’m going to flat black my old one and put it on.
Good to know, fortunately I haven’t needed those, but I do have their headlight bezels and premium grill. Happy with those.
 
red synthetic winch line and hook :waytogo: orange will clash with the cool old Red Bow Tie. Beware the Red Bow Tie
 
For anyone wondering:

The Badge holes on 81-87 measure 7 3/4" C/C on the dowels.

Badges on 73-74 measure 7" C/C on the dowels. So 3/4" difference.

My plan is to cut the dowels off and make a plate that can fasten these badge to the fender inconspicuously as one hole will always be visible as the badge does not cover them
 
Been fighting this hesitation in the truck for a while and finally think I tracked it down.

It seemed like a lean condition. So my mind goes to the carb to try and tune it out. Anything I did to the carb the hesitation was still there. After going around in circles for a few and thought about it. I put a timing light on the engine.

I had set the timing after swapping distributors to 12°. Check the timing again now and I’m at 0°. WTF. Set the initial once again to 12° hit it with the light and do a pull on the throttle. My timing mark disappears and doesn’t return. This tells me something is wrong in the distributor/ignition. However I just rebuilt this entire distributor… or so I thought.

Now, I’m trying to track down a new mechanical advance curve set. Can’t find one anywhere in town. Would think this would be readily available? Well, finally found one at car quest, covered in dust and not even on the correct shelf. But I found it. Come home go to put it on. Pull the wires, cap and rotor. Take a look at the mechanical advance system and sure enough the weights are stuck wide open. Take it all apart, cleaned up the base plate installed new weights and center plate.

Test the functionality of the new ones, and they also stick. Upon closer inspection the wing “tips” of the weights are too long. Not by much, hit them with a grinder and test again. Bingo, they function as intended. Slap it all back together. Hit it with a timing light I’m at 12°. Quick pull of the throttle and my mark comes back down to 12°. Readjusted the carb and idle and man it’s running smooth.

Always nice when your hypothesis works out and is actually correct.
 
Finally took it for a bit of a drive yesterday and still has the off idle stumble. Now I’m leaning towards fuel pressure and the possibility my fuel pump isn’t committing enough.
 
What is your max timing at WOT? If you rev it to 4K with the vacuum advance disconnected, what does it get up to? Is it still climbing? (Hopefully not or the weights are too heavy. )

Also, do you have vacuum advance hooked up? It should be all in at idle or it can cause issues, if it is still climbing with more vacuum than you make it idle thats now what you want, but a very common issue.

Is the hesitation only on tip in? Does it disappear if you leave idle very subtly with barely any throttle?
 
What is your max timing at WOT? If you rev it to 4K with the vacuum advance disconnected, what does it get up to? Is it still climbing? (Hopefully not or the weights are too heavy. )

Also, do you have vacuum advance hooked up? It should be all in at idle or it can cause issues, if it is still climbing with more vacuum than you make it idle thats now what you want, but a very common issue.

Is the hesitation only on tip in? Does it disappear if you leave idle very subtly with barely any throttle?

I’m not sure what total timing is. Don’t have the marks to see that. All timing was adjusted with vaccum advance disconnected and plugged. Now the timing issue is fixed as my mark comes back in after throttle.

Hesitation is only there at off idle if I goose it or do anymore than feather the pedal. If I feather the pedal real light off idle it won’t hesitate which makes me think it’s a fuel delivery issue.
 
Also, I did replace the accelerator pump on the carb thinking that may be the issue early on. I also tried adjusting when the pump squirt comes in and in any position the hesitation remains.
 
Sounds like an accelerator pump issue in the carb, but not sure what carb you are running?

It could also be a vacuum leak somewhere.

But also, not knowing your total timing under load doesn't help your performance, that's what matters the most, the idle timing should be set separately or be 2nd in priority to be optimal. But you may need to use an adjustable timing light or timing tape to measure it. You can also make your own timing marks. An 8" balancer at 34 degrees should be 2.37" from the zero mark for example.
 
Sounds like an accelerator pump issue in the carb, but not sure what carb you are running?

It could also be a vacuum leak somewhere.

But also, not knowing your total timing under load doesn't help your performance, that's what matters the most, the idle timing should be set separately or be 2nd in priority to be optimal. But you may need to use an adjustable timing light or timing tape to measure it. You can also make your own timing marks. An 8" balancer at 34 degrees should be 2.37" from the zero mark for example.
I replaced the accelerator pump early on thinking that may have been the issue but it persisted through that. Edelbrock AVS2
 
When I first put this carb on there was no issue at all. And me and my buddy dialed in the carb together for optimal performance. It worked great for a while. That makes me think it’s not the carb. Not sure how it could just change character all of a sudden. More tests are needed. I should be able to find the total timing with the light I have. I’ll do that here in a few.
 
Try this, unplug the vacuum advance, and set the timing to 34 degrees at 4,000 RPM.

Then plug the vacuum advance back in and see how it runs.

You may also want to check the vacuum advance can and other items for a vacuum leak.

Also, if the carb got gummed up at all it can restrict the fuel delivery, so it can definitely change over time, especially if it sat unused.
 
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