I have an adjustable timing light.
CK5
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Back In the Saddle Again
- Thread starter K5Devil
- Start date
It did sit for a while.. I’ll let you all know what I find.
I just figured out mine has the button for total timing. Now I just need to find a way to get a reliable RPM reading.
The exact RPM is not critical, you just want to get it past the point it keeps climbing, the stiffer the advance springs, the higher the RPM the advance will peak. If it stops climbing at 3000, that's fine.
You just want to avoid setting the timing at 34 at 3,000 and then it climbs higher at 4000 or something.
If its still climbing at 4,000, you should use lighter springs.
I actually prefer it to peak by 2500 - 3000 RPM for performance, but that doesn't work for every application, it could cause pinging in high load low RPM scenarios.
You just want to avoid setting the timing at 34 at 3,000 and then it climbs higher at 4000 or something.
If its still climbing at 4,000, you should use lighter springs.
I actually prefer it to peak by 2500 - 3000 RPM for performance, but that doesn't work for every application, it could cause pinging in high load low RPM scenarios.
My timing light doesn’t let me set the total timing. So I’m going to make a timing tape and get that done.
In the mean time I rebuilt my driver side wing window and put the passenger door somewhat together. Also cleaned my shop.
LMC window channels don’t fit. So reusing the OEM ones that came on the truck.
In the mean time I rebuilt my driver side wing window and put the passenger door somewhat together. Also cleaned my shop.
LMC window channels don’t fit. So reusing the OEM ones that came on the truck.
No Whistling our the passenger side wing window. Sealed up nice and tight. Also, it took me a fraction of the time to build the drivers side wing window. I did it dry. No soapy water just dry and it went together way easier.
Got the drivers side done. The longest part was clipping the handle rod into the clip. Took probably 2 hours of fiddling to get it on. 
no whistling from either window. Granted Ive only been up to 50 mph but they whistled no matter the speed before ha. I used the 1 piece rubber seals even though I have the 2 piece design. I think the 1 piece seals seal better.
If there’s a will there’s a way.
Filled with construction epoxy. 
Doesn't that make them heavy? Then double sided tape?
Yep then the 3M double sided tape after I sand them down flat. They are a bit heavy but should have enough surface area to hold.
That 3M tape is no joke. Good stuff.
That's what we use at work when we have to reattach emblems.
Pounded out the dents in the OE grille surround and reattached it after spraying it black with matte clear. 
The Bog Saga:
Went over to @Wes Harden place and put a timing light on it to see total timing. My initial is at 10° and total around 37°. And it’s running smooth. So we did not see a reason to adjust the timing. I could adjust my mech advance to kick in a little earlier.
We drove it so we could duplicate the symptoms, tried swapping metering rod springs to no avail.
I went home decided to take the carb apart. Opened it up and I’m not 100% certain because when I took the air horn off I could have sworn I seen the accelerator pump spring cockeyed in its orifice and when I removed the air horn it straightened out.
With the carb apart I checked float specs and everything Spec’d out perfectly. Well I cleaned the bowls really good, blew out every jet and every passage way. Put the carb back together and the bog is gone.
Pulls hard again. No hesitation. Got dang nearly broke the rear tires loose on the test run.
Went over to @Wes Harden place and put a timing light on it to see total timing. My initial is at 10° and total around 37°. And it’s running smooth. So we did not see a reason to adjust the timing. I could adjust my mech advance to kick in a little earlier.
We drove it so we could duplicate the symptoms, tried swapping metering rod springs to no avail.
I went home decided to take the carb apart. Opened it up and I’m not 100% certain because when I took the air horn off I could have sworn I seen the accelerator pump spring cockeyed in its orifice and when I removed the air horn it straightened out.
With the carb apart I checked float specs and everything Spec’d out perfectly. Well I cleaned the bowls really good, blew out every jet and every passage way. Put the carb back together and the bog is gone.
Pulls hard again. No hesitation. Got dang nearly broke the rear tires loose on the test run.
Cracked the NV4500 open.
1-2 Shift fork is wasted.
Looks like some gear chatter/chips on 2nd gear on the counter shaft.
What you guys think?
Replace shift fork and send it?
Or
Full rebuild?
1-2 Shift fork is wasted.
Looks like some gear chatter/chips on 2nd gear on the counter shaft.
What you guys think?
Replace shift fork and send it?
Or
Full rebuild?
Oof.. glitter paste.
I wouldn't worry about that chip, it's not where the gears mesh
Thats the largest chip on that gear: there are multiple chips but none in the mesh. It does shift really smoothly on the bench if that’s any consultation lol
