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Back In the Saddle Again

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Ill get a hold of torque king and see what kit will accomplish everything. I have been told by some NV4500 gurus to swap the countershaft out due to the wear on the gear it could have stripped it but ill wait until I have it all the way torn down.
 
Im convinced even with the new master cylinder. That I am going to have to run an adjustable proportioning valve. Seems like the passenger rear isn’t getting the brake pressure needed. The tell tale sign is a loud screech when braking. I have put goop on all metal on metal parts of the brakes. Cleaned the rotors. Had that wheel off and on about 10 times and nothing is fixing the annoying screech. Same brake pads as on driver side rear. I’m thinking since it’s the furthest away the pressure just isn’t there for the pads to fully engage.
 
Usually you need to turn the back down for disc brakes, not increase it, something sounds wrong, could it be a bad caliper or brake hose?
 
folkenheath said:
Usually you need to turn the back down for disc brakes, not increase it, something sounds wrong, could it be a bad caliper or brake hose?
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I’m running a master cylinder that has worked for many others on here not a stock master. Many said no need for prop with it. Further back in my thread here I installed it.

If I pump the brakes good before making a complete stop. I get no screech, and it’s only coming from the passenger rear. And it will work fine for the next couple of stops. But then its like it looses pressure only on that one side.
It is the furthest away from the master. If there was a leak in the line it would be apparent in both sides. Pedal feels great. So I don’t believe there is a leak. It’s just that there isn’t enough pressure when I’m barely breaking to engage the pads. Example, coming to a stop sign, or braking to go around a corner. It engages but squeals on the rotors like not clamping tight enough. Only on the one side.
 
To me , this points to an air bubble. Or it needs a residual pressure check valve. Normally this isn't necessary when the master cylinder is above the wheels, maybe it would be helpful.

But a proportioning valve in the back line would turn the pressure down when adjusted, correct?
 
I don't think this is a pressure issue.
Disc brakes pads are pushed away from the disc by rotor run out. If you have to much run out the pads will be pushed further, and need more fluid volume to apply.
The squealing is caused by pad vibration. If it is loose in calper or the caliper bracket it will vibrate.
When the previous post say hose, they don't mean leak, swelling is more common. I know the hoses are recent, but one never knows about new parts.
 
Wes Harden said:
I don't think this is a pressure issue.
Disc brakes pads are pushed away from the disc by rotor run out. If you have to much run out the pads will be pushed further, and need more fluid volume to apply.
The squealing is caused by pad vibration. If it is loose in calper or the caliper bracket it will vibrate.
When the previous post say hose, they don't mean leak, swelling is more common. I know the hoses are recent, but one never knows about new parts.
Click to expand...
About the only think I havnt tried is new pads I have another set I guess I can try out.
 
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