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Back With More Questions....

H

Hiobviking5

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Lake Tahoe, California
So.... After a meesley Rear Drive shaft U joint problem. things are getting worse it seems. I dont get vibrations and shaking now, instead, 15 seconds of quick vibrations and squeeling does the U-joint destroy its self.

Gonna take the Rear drive shaft in to see if its properly balanced and what not. Were going to pull the motor and Re-do all seals and gizmos cause we still have an oil leak.

Wondering if theres any "need to's" that you know to do while the motor is out, waiting till the weekend to pull her out, cause no cherry picker. :/

Any Other Ideas why Drive shaft is tearing through U-Joints?
NO off-roading since the last change, and Very light driving was done. (Back and forth to work was it)

I really dont want to be changing U-Joints every 300 miles.....

Thanks for the help. Again......
 
Assuming that nothing was installed wrong, and the shaft is not bent, then you are looking at drive shaft angles.

To be honest, I thought your shaft angles might be a little extreme from the pictures, but that is almost unbelievable.
To do that damage that quick there must be a huge angle problem.

What does the damage look like when they fail?

Also, if you can, sight down the shaft from the rear to the front and make sure that the rear end yoke and the transfer case yoke are in line with each other.

It almost sounds like you have some kind of an offset. Either the rear yoke is not straight behind the transfer case, or one or the other is twisted slightly.

I know a big angle will destroy joints, but usually if it is so extreme that they go out that fast, they quite often break.

As for correcting an angle problem, I refer you to the experts here. My expertise is more towards electronics and general engineering.
These guys lift trucks in their sleep.

In fact, if you see some of their rigs, that would explain a lot......<G>.

J.
 
i took it to the local 4X4 shop. and this is what i was just told.

the angles maybe be wrong. ^^ mentioned above. causing the joints to work too much! he said block used to raise the blazer wouldeb the forst thing to look at.

if the angles okay, I have two options. Invest in a CV joints set up and torsion bars i think is what he said. still alows flex with the wheels but holds it all together.

Were gonna mesure the angles of the raising blocks tonight if anyone knows off ahnd what they "should be set at. if that makes sence.

the yokes are both lined up at the transer case and rear axle. we've checked that already.
 
Measuring the angle of the blocks is ok, but what is important is the angle the U-Joints are running at.
That is what is giving you the problems.

I saw an article somewhere that showed, with pictures how to do it. I will see if I can find it.
 
Possibly you're over-tightening the U-joint u-bolts or straps? The U-bolt style you can actually tighten it down enough to crush the U-joint cup...which would lead to rapid failure. Not sure if it's possible to do with strap style, unless you have the wrong straps?

Rene
 
Well, I'm sure that there is plenty of information around here about how to do it, but until someone jumps in with where the best of it is, I found this link.
Probably more info than you ever wanted.
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_help/html/Diagnosis/Propshaft/Propshaft_Angles.htm

Hang in there. I suspect that this is the reason he sold it so cheap. I have a sneaking suspicion that we can fix it fairly easily and cheaply and you will get the last laugh.

J.
 
he was also to lazy to take the engine out to replace a rear seal, was the other reason. found another one that MUST pe the problem. i'll take a picture tomorrow to clearify, but, the trtansfer case mount is held on by a support bracket that stretches the length of the truck, one mount has a plate attached to it where the end bolt is, the other one, where there should be a plate is all couroded and gone, leaving the mounting bolt just dangling there. really odd....
 
U-joint angles are not correct. I have litterally wiped out a U-joint in 15 miles from a bad angle.

Also, the proper torque spec for a U-joint that is held into a Yoke with a U-bolt is 15 ft/lbs. Any U-joint that uses a strap cannot be overtightened as it is a bolt seating tightly against the strap and pulling it against the Yoke.
 
I've seen incorrect straps used where they don't seat flat to the yoke. Not a likely scenario, but you don't know until you check.

Rene
 
Have you measured the angles yet? Cheap angle finder will work.

Take the driveshaft off, put the angle finder on the yoke. Record reading. Do the same to both ends axle and t case. Report back

Anyway you may have a bad yoke, this can be very very hard to see.

Didn't you have a chip out of your yoke?

By bad I mean it may have spread a bit or is just plain worn out.
 
So i havent gotten around to measuring my angles but rather been re-wiring grounds that were made of speaker wire, spliced engine wires and all that non-sence. after taking out the engine found about 5 harness' that weren't plugged into anything so we trimmed them back and kept the harness' just in case.

But we came across this...
DSCN0393.jpg


it was lying under the throttle not attached to anything, except the other end. witch is attached to a nut that goes into the tranny; which was were one of the leaks was coming from. it looks like this.....

DSCN0395.jpg


my questions is: Can i take all this out and just get a bigger bolt for the hole, "One that fits" or is this a what i think is a linkage that NEEDS to be attached somewhere? me and my dad thought maybe it was a cruise control or a kickdown linkage?

Thanks For any of the help!! if you need more pictures met me know!
 
That would be the kick down cable it ataches at the carb on the throttle lever and as for the leak there is a o ring on the piece that goes in the tranny.
 
After some other forum reading, I've noticed the kickdown is really only needed for "passing" on the freeway and what not. Just drops to second or first depending on your speed to gain more horsepower. correct? if so its not "NECESSARY" to have connected? How do you guys have yours? connected or disconnected?
 
So finally got a cherry picker to put the engine back in truck. Know for sure that the leak is the kick down linkage, wondering if anyone has some cheap website I can order one off of. Replaced all seals and bearings inthe engine while it was out. All wires been re-wired to CORRECT places. haha. any last minute things you want me to check or think i mught need to check? its going in tomorrow night. so a good 24 hours to go....

Thanks for the help you guys! really appreciated!
 
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