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bad luck with headers....

Jonny-K5

Jonny-K5

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just finished replacing a header gasket. this will be the third time since i installed them. first ones lasted about a year, second ones two days, third leak right after i put them on. headers are doug thorleys. first gasket was the one that comes with the headers, the second two are mr gasket ultra seal i had laying around. this last time i used edelbrock gaskacinch sealer, supposed to work wonders. didnt this time.

the gasket leaks out of the top of #'s 4+6. i think part of the problem is the way the y pipe tweaks the header, pulling the top out slightly. i'm hoping i can solve this by using a good thick gasket like what came with the headers, along with the gaska cinch. the mr gasket ones are pretty thin. what type of gaskets to you guys use?
 
pull the headers back off the heads. Run a bead of red silicone around each primary. Let it sit for a few minutes so it has a slight chance to dry, carefully reinstall(2 people really helps here) and bolt them up snug. Run them, retorque as usual, go with it. I have a little leak on the one side I need to redo but far better than any gaskets ever were. My cousin's race car and my dad's are this way as well as my Suburban.
 
I've always used manifold gaskets instead of that junk they sell for headers. Never had a leak at the heads, just prob's at the collector.

Manifold gaskets are easier to install too.

Rene
 
I had the same problems with my header gaskets blowing out. I use a good header gasket that has metal woven in the gasket. You can get them at most auto part stores. I think they were like 30$. just make sure you check the header bolts every now and then for tightness.
 
use manifold gaskets and dead soft aluminum collector gaskets. never had a problem with leaks.
 
THIS ALWAYS WORKS FOR MY ME- i use two gaskets per head and get the copper (goldish colored) rtv to glue the two gaskets together. then bolt them up and theyll form to any warped surface no matter how bad. try it im sure itll work for ya. lata ryan
 
all the old drag guys cut the headers between the 1st and 2nd and 3rd and 4th pipe.... that way its not fighting itself. wish i had done it before i reinstalled mine
 
TorkDSR said:
all the old drag guys cut the headers between the 1st and 2nd and 3rd and 4th pipe.... that way its not fighting itself. wish i had done it before i reinstalled mine
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I can see how that would help but it seems to me that it would want to warp more after you did that. I guess once its warped a bit though, it'll wanna push all the other ones out of line.
 
interesting ideas.

sled dog: im sure that would work inplace of a gasket, but i think my problem is the y-pipe pulling the header down. when i bolt everything up it tweaks it down just enough to lose the seal on top.


trusty&beater k20: never thought of that. i might try a set of manifold gaskets.

ironnut: the gaskets im using have metal woven into it, the gaskets arent blowing out, they just arent sealing.

short sub: interesting idea, i might try that if the manifold gaskets dont work.

torkdsr: another interesting idea, anyone else have an opinion on cutting the flange to relieve tension?

thanks for all the replies fellas, keep em coming :waytogo:
 
I did forget to add that once I 'found' the dead soft aluminum collector gaskets I didn't have any more trouble at the collector either.

I don't see the point of messing with RTV's, and 2 layers of header gaskets...or even cutting the header when the manifold gaskets work so well (and don't burn out).

Rene
 
TorkDSR said:
all the old drag guys cut the headers between the 1st and 2nd and 3rd and 4th pipe.... that way its not fighting itself. wish i had done it before i reinstalled mine
Click to expand...
Used that trick a few times myself.
 
the gaskets i use are a 3/16" thick paper gasket, they come individual for $3 each. im on my 3rd set in 1.5 years, first time they lasted a year, second were on for 3 months and pulled the motor. the third set has been on for 3 months. the only place i have found them at is my local parts store/speed shop. alot of the circle track guys here use them all with good luck.
 
I use manifold gaskets too, they work great!
 
Only had one set!

I only had one vehicle with headers,and that was enough for me!--they rot out fast here..I used manifold gaskets from fel-pro,the ones that have perforated steel on both sides..mostly cause I had several left from head sets I never used on previous jobs--one header loved to blow out the gasket at #1 cyl--so I cut the flanges with a hacksaw at the advice of another guy who did the same to his and it cured his keaks--helped mine some too..

I used "Ultra Copper" gasket RTV poop on the gaskets, and had no more leaks--A friend with a 440 Mopar in his camper kept blowing exhaust gaskets at the manifolds--he bought the solid copper ones from Jeg's and they still dont leak 3 years later--only got 1 trip to NH in years past with regular gaskets before it blew them out....I prefer stock iron manfolds--though chevy's can be hard to keep "donuts" in the manifolds too... :crazy:
 
big83chevy4x4 said:
the gaskets i use are a 3/16" thick paper gasket, they come individual for $3 each. im on my 3rd set in 1.5 years, first time they lasted a year, second were on for 3 months and pulled the motor. the third set has been on for 3 months. the only place i have found them at is my local parts store/speed shop. alot of the circle track guys here use them all with good luck.
Click to expand...

my last set i put on lasted 2 years, and 3 different sets of headers. they cost like 4.99 for a complete set.
 
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