bad motor mounts

[ramack]

Hey,

I'm pretty sure that my motor mounts are toast on my '79 K5, SM465. The last two runs I've ran, when the trail became rough (uphill moguls), the cross shaft has pulled out from the engine block side. I've never had this happen on my '77, although I did replace the motor mounts on it.

So...if I replace the mounts (assuming that's the problem), should I go with rubber or solid? I replaced the '77s with rubber, but I'm taking the '79 into higher flex areas.

The transmission mount(s) look ok, so I'm assuming the motor mounts are the problem.

Rich

 

[Chip Cross]

Could always go with these.

 

[sweetk30]

do not go solid .

and i would do polly mounts. but dont forget you need to swap the tranny/tcase mount overto polly also.

ditch the stock rubber stuff. it sucks bad.

thay do make polly mounts to fit in the stock shells. or like posted full aftermarket replacement .

 

[ramack]

and i would do polly mounts. but dont forget you need to swap the tranny/tcase mount overto polly also.

Why does the rear mount need to be replaced?

ditch the stock rubber stuff. it sucks bad.

What's the issue with the rubber mounts, deterioration over time? Or is the mechanical design better with the poly type?

Rich

 

[sweetk30]

rubber flexes more than polly. and you will tear up one or the other if not all the same.

rubber is cheeeeeper and faster to make / install. polly is much better and lasts longer. i run all polly in my rigs and love it. lot less motor/tranny/tcase flex in the frame and stuff stays were its ment to be.

when the stock rubber motor mount is shot it can more over 1/2 inch all over in the steel shell thats bolted to the frame.

 

[sweetk30]

just so happend i needed to do a set today.

pics of old worn out flopping in the shell rubbers now swaped to energy suspension polly. real easy to do. drill the heads off the 2 rivits and pop the shell apart and toss the rubber out and clean and light grease the shell and drop in the new with correct direction aspr the directions provvided.

then thay give zip ties. but i use 2 new little bolts to hold together till in the frame again.

 

[sweetk30]

last few pics.

 

[sweetk30]

engine part # http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-1116G/

req = 2 of the motor mounts sold single

tranny/tcase part # http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-1106G/

req = 1 set of the tranny/tcase mount it the whole set.

and if you have a good floor jack and length of 2x4 you can do 1 motor mount swap out at a time in the truck. jam the 2x4 up on the motor and put jack under the board. remove 1 motor mount bolt and jack up 1 side and then remove the clamshell mount and reman it with new and bolt back in. then same on other side.

then just jack the whole tranny/tcase up off the mounts and swap out and bolt back down.

 

[ramack]

Earlier this morning, my first search at Summit didn't produce any hits for the Energy Suspension mounts, but I did find them at JEG's.

So I called around town (Denver Metro) to see if anyone (major parts store) had poly mounts, but they all carry rubber. Energy Suspension lists several local distributors in the area, so I'll call a few tomorrow (today is Sunday) to see if they can get them any quicker than through Summit or JEGs.

In the mean time I had started taking the old ones off, really easy to get to and remove. These are definitely shot.

Hey thanks for your input!

Rich

 

[ramack]

Yeah, the left motor mount is shot, the right mount is not quite as bad, but it is still shot.

The first picture is left and right mounts, the second picture is a close up of the left mount. Most of the surface area on the interior of the clam shell is nicely polish, ie, it's been seeing a lot of movement.

If I can't find poly mount locally, they will be on order by EOB tomorrow.

Thanks again for the input(s)!

Rich

 

[sweetk30]

left one is smoked man.

glad i could help pinpoint the problem and give you direction and part # on the fix.