Bad pinion bearing...how long will it last?

[jonrpick]

Hey all, here's the deal...

I just found out from my brother that my K5 has to be relocated NOW. The landlord at his place says it's a 'junk' vehicle and it has to go ASAP.

Basically, the 10-bolt leaked fluid at the pinion seal, and when I was going up a very steep and long hill, it ran dry and started making a lot of noise. I limped it another 60 miles, and the noise didn't get any worse. I later returned and relocated it 30 miles away from where I first parked it--again, it didn't get worse (it had been re-filled with 90W at that point).

I'm wondering, if I stop regularly (ever 30 miles or so) to let it rest and check the fluid level, and keep it at or around 65mph (tops) what are the chances that it'll make the 203 mile trip from my brother's place to my driveway?

Is this just stupid? I really can't afford a tow right now. It's in East Tennessee and needs to be moved slightly to North of Atlanta.

Any tips that'll help prevent a breakdown?

Thanks in advance...

~jp

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Any tips to prevent failure? Go much slower than 65. More like 45. Even then I think you'll be lucky to make it 200 miles.

If its making noise, it won't be long. Good luck.

 

[jonrpick]

Any tips to prevent failure? Go much slower than 65. More like 45. Even then I think you'll be lucky to make it 200 miles.

If its making noise, it won't be long. Good luck.

Failure is imminent. Technically, it's already happened. Basically just trying to get it from point A to point B under it's own power.

Thanks,

~jp

 

[loafer]

I drove my K5 with 10-bolt rear 150+ miles with a blown carier bearing and two badly damaged pinion bearings. I had to remove the rear drive shaft and run it in 4wheel drive though. If you have a slip yoke at the t-case you will need to seal up the t-case; a 20oz plastic soda bottle with the top cut off and a little duct tape work well for this


__

 

[jonrpick]

I drove my K5 with 10-bolt rear 150+ miles with a blown carier bearing and two badly damaged pinion bearings. I had to remove the rear drive shaft and run it in 4wheel drive though. If you have a slip yoke at the t-case you will need to seal up the t-case; a 20oz plastic soda bottle with the top cut off and a little duct tape work well for this
__

I was about to start a new thread asking about this very idea. The pinion will still be turning if the back wheels are turning, correct? Just wondering if that would cause a problem.

I'm not concerned about saving the housing. I'm just going to swap the whole unit for another 10-bolt in the short term.

Thanks,

~jp

 

[dyeager535]

Pinion will still be turning, but there will be no load from the driveshaft on it. A lot better if the carrier grenades as you won't (potentially) lose your driveshaft at the same time.

You could probably just use motor oil as a lubricant, if you've got some old used stuff around, a lot cheaper and probably just as effective in this case, since you know the whole thing is garbage, and you'll leak it anyways.

 

[jonrpick]

Pinion will still be turning, but there will be no load from the driveshaft on it. A lot better if the carrier grenades as you won't (potentially) lose your driveshaft at the same time.

You could probably just use motor oil as a lubricant, if you've got some old used stuff around, a lot cheaper and probably just as effective in this case, since you know the whole thing is garbage, and you'll leak it anyways.

Ok...well, that's reassuring. I didn't consider the load. I suppose it would be better that way. One other question, if something does break, how likely am I to lose an axleshaft (and wheel) while going down the road?

After starting this thread, I mapped a way home that didn't involve interstate at all. It's slower, but a shorter distance, and safer speeds.

~jp

 

[dyeager535]

I blew the carrier in half in my truck, I wasn't going fast, and didn't have to drive very far, but the c-clips were still on the axles. I went around a corner, dragging the rear end, no problems. I don't think you'd lose an axle so fast you wouldn't be able to prevent a real serious incident, especially if you aren't going too fast.

You hear and/or feel something worse, stop and check it out, pretty simple. Mine cracked the housing when it went, so it was visually obvious.

Curious what others think, but I suppose you could pull the carrier out, remove the pinion, and just bolt the carrier back in? If you could keep the hole from leaking (auto trans output shaft plugs might work) I don't see why there would be an issue...

 

[jonrpick]

I blew the carrier in half in my truck, I wasn't going fast, and didn't have to drive very far, but the c-clips were still on the axles. I went around a corner, dragging the rear end, no problems. I don't think you'd lose an axle so fast you wouldn't be able to prevent a real serious incident, especially if you aren't going too fast.

You hear and/or feel something worse, stop and check it out, pretty simple. Mine cracked the housing when it went, so it was visually obvious.

Curious what others think, but I suppose you could pull the carrier out, remove the pinion, and just bolt the carrier back in? If you could keep the hole from leaking (auto trans output shaft plugs might work) I don't see why there would be an issue...

I'd heard about that way of doing it, removing the pinion and capping the front of the housing off.

In the end I'm just going to try to drive it back as-is I think, either that or removing the driveshaft only and capping off the back of the t-case. My friend is driving me up there and he'll tow it *if* it breaks down. In the meantime, I'm going to compile a list of the Budget rentals places between here and there.

I think you're right, I'd hear something getting louder or worse before total annihilation occured, lol.

Thanks,

~jp

 

[Big91RustyBucket]

I would remove the R&P cap it tape it with duck tape fill it up and get a tow bar. It cost me $50 at harbor frieght. It was a cheap temp sollution.

 

[jonrpick]

I would remove the R&P cap it tape it with duck tape fill it up and get a tow bar. It cost me $50 at harbor frieght. It was a cheap temp sollution.

The only problem with that is that I have never been inside my axle before and although I'm sure I could figure it out, it's not something I feel 100% comfortable doing for the first time.

Thanks,

~jp

 

[Big91RustyBucket]

Here is a step by step.

Ok Take the pinion nut off with an impact.
Jack up rearend and support it with jackstands.
Remove diffcover.
Pull Roll pin retainer Bolt. I think like 10mm.
Pull roll pin.
Now pull the C clip's.
Pull axle's out the side enough to be able to remove the carrier.
Now pull the carrier retainer bolts out. Remove carrier. Now you should be able to take a punch and knock the pinion out.
Reinstall the carrier torque the bearing retailer's
Push axle's back in , and reinstall c clips.
Put roll pin , and retainer.
Use some formagasket , and reinstall cover.
Put duct tape over pinion and drive it home.

 

[dyeager535]

Agreed. Probably take 1 hour at worst, (given you've never messed with it) to remove the pinion. You aren't worrying about torque numbers, crush sleeve, etc., it's a simple unbolt/bolt back up deal.

Only real problem is the pinion shaft retaining "bolt", if it's broken, you can't easily get the carrier out. Still, even if it was broken, it would take you all of 5 minutes to figure that out, and put it back together.