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Ball-Joint Gurus??

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sandy78

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I'm getting ready to put new ball joints in my 10B. I pulled apart my old 10B to get a feel for the operation, and have a few questions regarding: 1. Alignment, and 2. The screw-in sleeves. 3. Pressing the joints?

Alignment: What controls it? I didn't see anything to adjust unless the ball joints themselves are off center.

Sleeves: I recall reading in an earlier post that there is no need to change them. They seem to be a spacing adjustment between the joints to take up the manufacturing tolerance stack up in the knuckle and the axle. If they were working fine, and I leave them where they were, can I just put new joints in?

Press: Obviously, a press is the uptown way to go, but will a mini-sledge work for a garage job?

Thanks for any tips.
 
sledg to remove and press to remove if vary rusty and to install them can rent from autozone. and get the good b/j also. and if the sleeve isnt broken dont move or play with it. this is for b/j pre load and takes a special tool to change it that only a specilest would have . and most shops dont have it , because these are old school now . and if alignment out severe thay make off set sleeves and b/j to help but wast of time unless all highway driving. set the toe and let it go.
 
Get good ball joints with the warranty. You can get the tool to adjust the sleeves for $20 from SnapOn. I would recommend getting it to do the job right. As long as the balljoints aren't rusted in they might come out with a hammer. Otherwise you can get the C-clamp press from Harbor Freight.

If the alignment is off you may be able to get Spindle shims to correct it.

Harley
 
be warned my snap on guy had to order it and that was direct from them no other dealer had one in my area.
 
sweetk30 said:
and if the sleeve isnt broken dont move or play with it. this is for b/j pre load and takes a special tool to change it that only a specilest would have .
Click to expand...

I have this tool..does that make me a specialist :D :D



Paid $15 from the snap on truck
 
you can easily make the socket for adjusting the adjusting nut from any el cheap-o socket... i wanna say 15mm will do it? just gotta get fancy with a grinder.... its nowhere near as nice, nor will it last as long as the snap on socket.... but, i'll get ya by. i replaced mine, and it wasnt hard at all.... i'd replace them since they come with the bj's.

you have two options for camber alignment. first one is a special adjusting nut for the upper balljoints. it's got the center hole cut at an angle, and depending on the way you turn it, it can adjust the camber, or caster. it also comes with an angled washer to go ontop to even it all up. this seems like itd be a pita to adjust.
2nd is a shim. http://www.ingallseng.com/parts/26126.htm this is what i did. i called up ingalls, and they told me the nearest ingalls dealer, called up the dealer, and had them order it for me. my price was cheaper than what they have listed. these shims will adjust up to 1.5 degrees camber, and are very easy to install/adjust.

you dont want to use a hammer to install the balljoints. go to your local parts store and rent a balljoint press. you have to get real creative with the spacers/adapters to get it to work, but it will work.
 
sweetk30 said:
be warned my snap on guy had to order it and that was direct from them no other dealer had one in my area.
Click to expand...

I bought mine at Napa for $8.99 :D
 
Me too (napa).

I recommend soaking the old adjuster sleeve in PB-blaster for a couple of days prior to removal. Buy Moog ball joints and you'll get a new adjuster to put in. The torque setting on the adjuster is important so follow the manual. Pay attention to the orientation of the top ball joint and make sure the grease jerk is pointed in a direction where it can be serviced after assembly.
 
I won't go into details about how to replace the joints, you can read it in this write-up

You can order the Snap-on spanner socket here
Or, as mentioned earlier, you can make it out of a 13/16 deep socket in about 20 mins.

As far as that Harbor Freight c-clamp goes, it's a piece of Chinese metal crap. My c-clamp broke in half after about a half dozen uses. Now I just use the rings that came with it and a vise.
 
There is a special 4wd front adapter kit for the ball joint press, makes life alot easier. It will cost you less to buy the tools and do it yourself, than to pay someone like me to do them for you. However if you pull the knuckles yourself and have someone with the tools and experance press the joints in you might be better off. Also I do recommend getting the "lifetime" units. I just traded mine in after about 10 years, the guy behing the counter was amazed I had the paperwork still. I just love it when I get over on a company using their rules against them....
 
I made the tool from a 1/2" drive 12pt 19mm craftsman deep socket. Worked like a charm. Cheap and only took about 15 min to make.
 
Thanks to all

Thanks to all for the responses. Got me pointed in the right direction. FWIW, the snap-on link shows a tool, but no P/N or Price, so I'm thinking they don't carry it anymore. The local NAPA distribution center didn't have it anymore either, but I found in from an OTC brand tool dealer for $23. It is P/N 7080. Seems to be good quality. Now, all I have to conquer is the joint press......
 
sandy78 said:
Thanks to all for the responses. Got me pointed in the right direction. FWIW, the snap-on link shows a tool, but no P/N or Price, so I'm thinking they don't carry it anymore. The local NAPA distribution center didn't have it anymore either, but I found in from an OTC brand tool dealer for $23. It is P/N 7080. Seems to be good quality. Now, all I have to conquer is the joint press......
Click to expand...

i just bought one of the sockets from partsmike for 10 bucks. great guy to deal with. www.partsmikeparts.com
 
I got mine apart last night, but there has to be a better way. I have a press, so getting the joints out of the knuckle was no big deal but getting the two B/J's broke loose at the same time from the housing was a pain in the ass. Is there a more correct way than me using my pickle fork on an air chissle on one ball joint while hammering the pin on the other one?:confused:
 
grape said:
I got mine apart last night, but there has to be a better way. I have a press, so getting the joints out of the knuckle was no big deal but getting the two B/J's broke loose at the same time from the housing was a pain in the ass. Is there a more correct way than me using my pickle fork on an air chissle on one ball joint while hammering the pin on the other one?:confused:
Click to expand...

A 20T shop press works pretty well. I put a piece of square tubing throught the knuckle and press with a couple of spacers.
 
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