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Ball Joint Help...

Philly87

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jul 14, 2000
Posts
465
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Location
El Paso, TX
Dumb question but I was able to push the lower ball joint up and out of the knuckle...

Does the upper ball joint in a 10 bolt need to be pressed up and out of the knuckle or down and out? :doah:

Thanks in advance...

Phil
 
Down and out. You took the knuckle off the truck, right?
Tarey
 
The knuckle is off the truck... What threw me for a loop is the new Moog joint will have to go in from the top because of the lip. Looking at the Moog if I ever have to remove it it will have to go up and out and not down...

There lies my question about the fractory GM ball joint. If it has the same lip it will have to be pressed up and out and not down.

Thanks again,
Phil
 
I might be wrong, I went out to look, it has been a while since I did mine.
Sorry you are RIGHT :confused:
Tarey
 
That is my thought also. Maybe I'm just doing something wrong because when I put the balljoint press on to press it up and out it is twists the press...
 
Is there a a clip on the bottom of it? Some have clips to retain them too. Also if it's the drivers side....I believe the steering arm has to come off.
 
Is there a a clip on the bottom of it? Some have clips to retain them too. Also if it's the drivers side....I believe the steering arm has to come off.

Not true, i managed to do mine without removing it.
 
Well it's out. It did have to be pressed out the top of the knuckle. FYI - both ball joints are pressed up and out and not downward.

It took a 30 ton press to do it... Guess thats what I get for waiting 22 years to change factory ball joints out on an 87 Blazer...

This was the passanger side. I'll make the attempt at the drivers side later during the week.

Thanks for the help!!!

Phil
 
Not true, i managed to do mine without removing it.



Hmm... When I did my 77 K20, I had to remove it to get the old one out. I guess this would be an instance where each truck is differnt.
 
Looking at the steering arm on my d44 knuckles I can see why. Not looking forward to tearing it all apart. I've only got the passenger side tore down, been soaking the drivers side in kerosene.

On my lift steering arm on my 10b it barely cleared.. when I got the old ball joint out I took a grinder and opened it up enough to clear.
 
I ended up paying the local Napa $30 to do both of mine on the drivers side. Don't have a press, nor the right kit for pressing them out. Borrowed Autozone's, but it wasn't setup for our size of joints.

Guy at Napa showed me his kit, similar to Autozone's, but a shorter "C" clamp, beefier, and the right adapters to perfectly fit the joints.

Even if mine had come out, I don't know as it was worth the hassle vs. the $30. Still would have liked to do them myself, but they didn't want to budge for me. :) Should have started off at Napa, instead of wasting time and money driving all over trying to get the "right" tools.
 
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