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Ball joint removal/installation checklist

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easttxryda

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91k5 10 bolt :Im plannin on gettin down and dirty with the ball joints this weekend :( not looking too forwrd to it as it looks pretty tough, I'm going to start on the passenger side since i know there will be a little less work on that side. but what all do i need to take into account to get the job done right?

- spanner socket for wheel bearing
-spanner socket for preload on top ball.
- ball joints,
-press type clamp from az
-pickle fork
-DO I NEED to go ahead and buy the new adjusting sleeves??

anyhting else to consider?? any help is appreciated guys..
 
Do it right THE FIRST TIME!

otherwise you'll get speed-wobbles, and have to do it again.

ask me how I know...:whistle:
 
My suggestion, save yourself the aggravation especially if you don't have the right tools or air tools. Here's what you do, dissassemble the front down to the knuckles. Then bring the bare knuckles to a shop and have them press out the old BJs and press in the new ones, shouldn't be too pricey. Get them back and go put it back together.

X2 on replacing the front axle joints while you are there.
 
easttxryda said:
91k5 10 bolt :Im plannin on gettin down and dirty with the ball joints this weekend :( not looking too forwrd to it as it looks pretty tough, I'm going to start on the passenger side since i know there will be a little less work on that side. but what all do i need to take into account to get the job done right?

- spanner socket for wheel bearing
-spanner socket for preload on top ball.
- ball joints,
-press type clamp from az
-pickle fork
-DO I NEED to go ahead and buy the new adjusting sleeves??

anyhting else to consider?? any help is appreciated guys..
Click to expand...

You forgot the most important item, a torque wrench.

The new preload sleeves come with the upper ball joints (at least the Moog's do). I would also suggest the Moog's since they piut the zerk fitting in the side on the upper joint so you don't have to take things apart to grease the upper ball joint.
 
This is all good info to have! I'll be tackling this myself pretty soon, as my passenger lower joint is completely shot... you can move the tire a lot when you jack it up...

Clay
 
Sound like you have it figured. I put TRW's in the blazer last year, not a fan as the grease nipple is on the bottom of them. Also a BFH will be your best friend to help motivate things. Also a bearing re pack may be in order while its apart, dont know if you planned on that? Id also recomend changing axle shaft U joints. Also the bearings/ seals that the stub shaft ride on are a cheap and easy to do as well.
 
Moog ball joints vs Raybestos

I have had my eye out for a good deal on the Moog's as it seems everyone is happy with them. This weekend I did a little internet searching for them and found quite a few articles, blogs, reviews, etc., that claim the quality has dropped recently. They are now made in Mexico or China, along with everything else it seems. Has anyone seen this or had trouble recently with the Moog chassis parts, ball joints?

Along that same thought, I checked out the Raybestos stuff. Looks like a good quallity piece, about same price as the Moogs, however I do not see the grease zerk in the side for easy access. Just wondering if anyone had used them and had any thoughts.

I also read that the Raybestos are actually Spicer ball joints just marketed as Raybestos parts. There is also another brand, McQuarry - something extra heavy duty. All the same stuff as the Raybestos.

Sorry for the hijack dude....kinda got carried away there. :doah:
 
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