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ball joint removal

chevy wrangler

chevy wrangler

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 15, 2006
Posts
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Location
el paso, texas
how hard is it to change a ball joint on a 1/2 ton 44?? i need to swap out the bottom one with a new one and while im at it ima change the u-joints as well, what kind of u-joints am i gonna need for it?? instructions would be helpful and thanxs in advanced:D
 
If you don't have a press and a bunch of different fixtures then i would suggest you take it to a shop to have the ball joints done. Also don't do just the lower change them both.
 
x2 with changing both, and on each side. i was able to change mine with a bfh and a high lift jack, but that sucked. go to harbor frieght and get their ball joint remover/install kit for a few bucks to save yourself a few curse words.
 
If you do not have a ball joint press you are really going to regret it, it is still a pain to do with the correct tools.

As everyone else said change everything, waste of time and money otherwise.
 
I "rented" a press from Autozone. Not too bad with the tool if you have an air gun to drive it. Basically it is a big C-Clamp with some spacers to fit over the ball joint. One way goes in, one goes out. Buy the funky adjusting socket for the taper nut thingy on the top axle ear. I think it was $12 or so at Pep Boys. Then you torque it to preload the assembly before putting final torque on the joints themselves. Good luck!
 
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=Ball+joint&Submit=Go

I just did mine couple of weeks ago. Used the Harbor Freight one time use (as is most of their tools) ball joint press. I also got their master ball joint adpater set. Didn't want to be without the right adapter. The press is a big aluminum C-clamp. I used a big cheater bar. I highly recommend to use a big impact gun. The cheater bar put a lot of stress on the clamp and ovaled the threaded part of the clamp so by the time I got to the last axle u-joint it barely worked.

Not a bad job, just takes some torguing to get them suckers out and back in again. Good luck
 
86dieselburb said:
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=Ball+joint&Submit=Go

I just did mine couple of weeks ago. Used the Harbor Freight one time use (as is most of their tools) ball joint press. I also got their master ball joint adpater set. Didn't want to be without the right adapter. The press is a big aluminum C-clamp. I used a big cheater bar. I highly recommend to use a big impact gun. The cheater bar put a lot of stress on the clamp and ovaled the threaded part of the clamp so by the time I got to the last axle u-joint it barely worked.

Not a bad job, just takes some torguing to get them suckers out and back in again. Good luck
Click to expand...

i used that for doin the 10b balljoints last year. i use the impact every time i use that tool. it's not bad, but keep it lubed.
 
This a good page to view.
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARadjustableBallJoints/adjustableballjoints.htm
He has numbers for both the parts and the tools.

The title of the page is Adjustable Ball Joints but the R&R process is the same for regular ones.

I have a Matco ball joint press and I've used it over and over and over. I never use an impact gun on it (bad for the threads) and it's never even hesitated to knock out any ball joint I've ever tried.

I use the trusty hammer-and-socket method for u-joints. Been doing it for 20 years and has always worked like a charm.
 
never have and can't imagine using a balljoint press by hand... air tools are ALWAYS your friend.
 
i used one by hand and a bf braker bar!!LOL i love rental tools, well thanks everybody for your help. i finished it and i also installed a new axleshaft and u-joint. thanks again :)
 
Did mine today. The knuckle was tight turning when I finished. was yours tight as well?
 
ssped said:
Did mine today. The knuckle was tight turning when I finished. was yours tight as well?
Click to expand...

they usually are. Bearings and joints that spin very freely are usually not so good. It means they aren't tight, or greased well(sealed bearings anyway). So resistance when you turn the knuckle by hand after installing new balljoints is perfectly fine. Now if you simply CAN'T turn it, then that isn't quite right.
 
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