ball joints and what else

[johnathan]

I'm soon going to regear my front 10 bolt.I'm gunna replace the balljoints while I'm at it.I'm gettin the ball joints from Napa.Will I need anyting else besides the b-joints (sleeves, adj. nuts,etc.)???Any other advice is welcome.

 

[dremu]

Magic ball joint adjuster tool ... OTC 7080. This does the preload on the goofy inside castle nuts on the top ball joint/

Ball joints should come with grease zerks, rubber boots, nuts, and cotter pins.

You'll also need a crazy big socket (1 1/4"? I forget) for the inside of the lower one.

And the magic four-prong hub socket to remove the locking nuts on the axle shaft.

That's all that comes to mind

-- A

 

[Hossbaby50]

Make sure you use good parts. Balljoints are a PITA to change and using quality parts the first time is alot easier then doing it twice. The 2 best brands are Spicer and Moog.

Are you goiing to press the balljoints yourself or have a shop press them out of the knuckles? If you do it yourself you will probably want to pick up one of the big C-clamp presses that you can use and impart wrench on. A balljoint pickle fork and a big hammer (3lb sledge) make it fairly easy to get the knuckles off the axle. The other tools have been mentioned already.

Make sure you adjust the upper balljoint properly. There is a special socket for it. It is fairly critical to adjust it right for longevity of the balljoints.

Harley

 

[dremu]

Make sure you use good parts. Balljoints are a PITA to change and using quality parts the first time is alot easier then doing it twice. The 2 best brands are Spicer and Moog.

Are you goiing to press the balljoints yourself or have a shop press them out of the knuckles? If you do it yourself you will probably want to pick up one of the big C-clamp presses that you can use and impart wrench on. A balljoint pickle fork and a big hammer (3lb sledge) make it fairly easy to get the knuckles off the axle. The other tools have been mentioned already.

Make sure you adjust the upper balljoint properly. There is a special socket for it. It is fairly critical to adjust it right for longevity of the balljoints.

Harley

Dammit dammit dammit. Forgot the press ... and while lots of the stuff they have is crap, Harbor Freight has one that is decent:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42236

*Don't* get the one in the gray case (#4065), as I hear bad things about it. The one in the red case has done a bunch of balljoints and U-joints and some other assorted stuff for me just fine.

And that socket Harley talks about is the OTC # I mentioned above -- Owatonna Tool Co, IIRC. Napa carries these, I do b'lieve.

-- A

 

[Hossbaby50]

Dammit dammit dammit. Forgot the press ... and while lots of the stuff they have is crap, Harbor Freight has one that is decent:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=42236

*Don't* get the one in the gray case (#4065), as I hear bad things about it. The one in the red case has done a bunch of balljoints and U-joints and some other assorted stuff for me just fine.

-- A

I have been using the one in the grey case without problems now. I have done a bunch of axle ujoints, driveshaft ujoints, and 1 set of balljoints with it. It has worked ok for me. I have heard of them cracking in half but it hasn't happened to me yet. I don't have a big torque impact though.

I bought my upper balljoint adjuster socket from Snapon but lots of people make them.

Harley

 

[mechted]

Make sure you check your axle ujoints while you're in there, you have it apart already, so if worn, replace them.
If you are re-gearing, then you are pulling the case: its a good time to redo the axle seals (located just outside the pumpkin) they're cheap, and you have to have the case out to do them.

 

[jk3078]

Make sure you check your axle ujoints while you're in there, you have it apart already, so if worn, replace them.
If you are re-gearing, then you are pulling the case: its a good time to redo the axle seals (located just outside the pumpkin) they're cheap, and you have to have the case out to do them.

Agreed, also a spindal kit and wheel bearing check/repack. Get Spicer 5-760 X u-joint for your axle shafts, anything else is a wast of time and money. Torque specs for the "castle nuts" are 50pf and the ball joints are 100pf. Have you thought about 44 flat tops? Might be a good time to pave the way for x-over? Also running 44 knuckels with a ten bolt tie rod bar is good for a couple of inches clearence but you must have 4'' or more of lift for it to fit under the leaf springs.

 

[johnathan]

Thanks for the help.Is there a writeup for B-joint replacement?I'll probably check into the flat tops also.So I could take the knuckle to a shop and have them pressed in to speed up things up???

 

[francis]

just gat a dana 60

 

[jk3078]

So I could take the knuckle to a shop and have them pressed in to speed up things up???

Yes, you could. That is the way I have done mine in the past. Most full service tire shops can do these fairly cheap. Also mabey get your rotors ground since you have it apart?

 

[NEK5]

Magic ball joint adjuster tool ... OTC 7080. This does the preload on the goofy inside castle nuts on the top ball joint/

Ball joints should come with grease zerks, rubber boots, nuts, and cotter pins.

You'll also need a crazy big socket (1 1/4"? I forget) for the inside of the lower one.

And the magic four-prong hub socket to remove the locking nuts on the axle shaft.

That's all that comes to mind

-- A

where would one find this magnificent piece?

 

[BizeeB65]

ebay? Napa?

Holy old thread batman.

 

[hunterguy86]

where would one find this magnificent piece?

I got mine at orielly auto parts for like 15 bucks.