Barn find 1975 K5 Cheyenne

[Cheyenne75]

All original 1975 K5 Cheyenne I found in a barn here in Oregon had the original plugs, wires and cap has 98,000 the oldtimer said..fired right up I'll bet had old gas from the Nixon admin and brings my question and many many thanks for any info..

What Holly carb should I order...note I know those Rochesters are good carbs so I will get a rebuild kit as well but doing a restoration I would like to have a upgrade to have..Thanks

 

[79rustyk10]

Can we get some more specs and what you plan to do with it?

 

[Cheyenne75]

Here's some spec's hope this helps I am putting Headmen headers on the 350 with Super 40 series Flowmasters and a upgrade manifold...why! With this great find and living in the Cascade mountains it's time to build a collectable toy and have all the original parts to have with it but put some upgrades on to have better performance....and sound great

Thanks

 

[79rustyk10]

I would probably stick with the Q jet.

If going Holley for street use I would go with a basic 650 CFM with electric choke.

 

[Richcz28]

If the truck runs don't put money into any off those things. More specs, but what about brakes, wheel bearings, u joints, possible radiator re-core, and the plethora of other hidden problems that surface with a new vehicle.

Definitely do not waste money on a carb if yours is functioning properly. Have you worked on a 350 engine before? No offense, but everything you listed for modifications are things I thought were cool when I was 14. When I turned 16 and tried to do all of them I learned they were all bad ideas.

 

[paratrooper307]

If the truck runs don't put money into any off those things. More specs, but what about brakes, wheel bearings, u joints, possible radiator re-core, and the plethora of other hidden problems that surface with a new vehicle.

Definitely do not waste money on a carb if yours is functioning properly. Have you worked on a 350 engine before? No offense, but everything you listed for modifications are things I thought were cool when I was 14. When I turned 16 and tried to do all of them I learned they were all bad ideas.

Good advice. With a truck that old, you'll want to put your budget into addressing any potential issues that come from sitting around and not being cared for. Odds are the brakes are shot, bushings are rotted, something will start leaking, and there's rust somewhere. Once it's road worthy and reliable, then you can look at putting some money towards modifications once you're clear on what your goals and intended use of the truck are.

 

[bigred88]

If the truck runs don't put money into any off those things. More specs, but what about brakes, wheel bearings, u joints, possible radiator re-core, and the plethora of other hidden problems that surface with a new vehicle.

Definitely do not waste money on a carb if yours is functioning properly. Have you worked on a 350 engine before? No offense, but everything you listed for modifications are things I thought were cool when I was 14. When I turned 16 and tried to do all of them I learned they were all bad ideas.

Why are headers, an intake, and mufflers a bad idea? I mean, I get the point as far as this truck is concerned- save the money, get it driveable, then fix the driveability issues before the upgrades happen. The way you say it you make it sound like they're always bad ideas.

 

[Richcz28]

An engine is a complete build. All parts should match. You can't just slap an intake, carb, and headers on an engine and expect better results. It is just a waste of time and money.

Additionally, headers are prone to leaking and often are created with way to thin flanges. They rust and look like crap unless you spend lots and lots of money getting stainless or titanium. Don't bother with ceramic coated.

Intake manifolds are prone to leaking. You need to make sure the head surface and the intake are planed to match otherwise it'll never seat right.

I'm picturing this engine looking like every engine I see at a car show that makes me cringe. You see a beautiful stock car that is all original until you open the hood and someone who thinks they saw some cool shiny parts in a magazine bolts them on and claims 400hp.

If your engine isn't running right and you just started working on the truck go through all of your vacuum lines, use a timing light, vacuum gauge, compression tester. No sense throwing good money after bad.

 

[bigred88]

I agree that an engine is a complete build, but it doesn't always make financial sense to tear into a well running engine. If you have a solid engine, there's nothing wrong with putting headers on it, if done right. You're going to get a little more performance out of it- no, you won't optimize everything, but you'll get a little more power and you're not hurting the engine. Same goes for an intake- if done right, and you keep it mild, you can get some power, just not as much as if you were building the whole thing. And last I checked, most 40 year old exhaust manifolds are all rusted to hell anyways, so you're not at much of a visual loss there.

I fully agree with getting it all sorted out and running properly before you start throwing upgrades at it.

Anyway, I think I've gotten this thread hijacked enough, so I'll shut up now.

 

[COCHEV]

First of all...PICS!!!!

second, with what you're you're describing maybe think about restoring it and keeping it pretty close to original. Get second rig to play in. My .02

 

[meanboyjr]

If everything is in working order, I'd rock that sucker bone stock, and fix what needed to be fixed to keep it in good shape. You don't see many low mileage, original, full vert squarebodies on the road these days.

Just my two copper.

 

[Cheyenne75]

Thanks fellas lots of great advice indeed thanks Rich I agree with the drive train first needs joints all the way around along with new brakes. I installed a new master cylinder, thermostat, plugs/wires/cap/rotor, air filter,fuel filter, lights all the way around, have new 80-90 gear oil as well as new motor oil. Have a LMC/Brothers catalog sounds like a low milage all stock is getting rare with the full convertable that's nice to know. I just got this last week been offered first born from strangers dang neer.

Thanks again for all the info that was quick and all helpful indeed

 

[Cheyenne75]

If everything is in working order, I'd rock that sucker bone stock, and fix what needed to be fixed to keep it in good shape. You don't see many low mileage, original, full vert squarebodies on the road these days.

Just my two copper.

Sounds good had all the Firbirds in my day I agree with all stock now I'm getting feedback..your copper helped now fill me in on the styles you say squarebodies as mine is a Cheyenne..what model is not a square in full convertable..Many Thanks

 

[ChrisPerry]

I agree with the guys about the first money spent, should be on making sure the truck is safe, brakes, fuel line, ect. Check compression and give it a good tuneup.

If everything is good at this point, add a few performance goodies. I would recommend a Performer Rpm manifold, 600-650 carb, and exhaust. I like headers and if run with GOOD gaskets and the ball collectors they do seal.

Just be aware that after installing these goodies you will need to tune it to get the most out of them. I would definitely recommend resetting your advance curve in the dizzy for best results.

 

[76zimmer]

I agree with the guys about the first money spent, should be on making sure the truck is safe, brakes, fuel line, ect. Check compression and give it a good tuneup.

If everything is good at this point, add a few performance goodies. I would recommend a Performer Rpm manifold, 600-650 carb, and exhaust. I like headers and if run with GOOD gaskets and the ball collectors they do seal.

Just be aware that after installing these goodies you will need to tune it to get the most out of them. I would definitely recommend resetting your advance curve in the dizzy for best results.

Chris has this....nothing wrong with replacing a stovepot choke linkage old quad. A simple 600 vac secondary carb will work fine....but so will an electric choke quad...stick the original in a box.
As far as machining the heads and intake... If things are stock, no need for that, just clean everything up real good on the gasket surfaces, use some RTV on the block seals, and bolt it down evenly.
RPM airgaps are a dam good manifold, way outperform an iron stocker, and headers should be 16ga, 1-5/8 primary tubes and 3/8 head flanges would be great...there are some header threads on here for what guys like and works and lasts.
Tuning after all these parts are put on is paramount to achieve best results.


Post up pics ASAP