Basic motor install questions

[Bigcasino]

Howdy All- Pulled my first motor out last weekend- 292 c.i. one-barrel out of my new clean, clean, '69 C-20. (I know, I know, it's a beast!!) New long block came in today at the friendly parts store. I have a couple of real basic questions, so please bear with me, all you experienced gear-heads.
1- Labeled the crap out of everything as I took it apart, so i know the plug and wire order. How do I find TDC to set the initial timing? Is that what I do to set the initial timing? What the freak is initial timing? (The whole timing thing is like outer space, man.)
2- Any ideas on torque specs on the flywheel, clutch plate, and cast iron intake/exhaust manifold? Anything else I need to torque down carefully?
3- Break in procedure? Way back when, they told you to run it under various loads and speeds for couple of hundred miles, change the oil and filter, and you were good to go. Parts dweeb says that's not necessary any more, even though the engine isn't dyno'd or anything. (I think he's lying!) What would you suggest?
4- It probably expresses my ignorance best that I can only think to ask the above three questions. What important step or tip am I not even smart enough to ask for? All suggestions (o.k., most suggestions) will be most gratefully received.

Thanks all- if this goes well, then the wife is gonna' let me try to swap the 350 in my '84 K-5 this summer. If it doesn't go well, maybe I'll ask the K-5 if I could swap out my old lady this summer!! Either way, it's win-win!!
Thanks again!

 

[PhoenixZorn]

If you buy a fresh camshaft for your longblock, you should fire it up and run it up to but not beyond 2000 rpm for up to 5 minutes to clean up and break in the new metal. Afterwards, go easy on it for 500-1000 miles, vary your speeds (don't fly at 75 on the highway for 3 hours) and then it should be well broken in. The point of changing the oil after 500-1000 miles is to remove any metal shavings that would have flown off during your break in period. When I did my oil change, the oil was as amber colored as when it went in.... so it may or may not be necessary, but I'd always like to be on the safe side. By the way, the shop that installed my engine did the cam break in for me, timed it, and tested it... So I'm not just pulling this stuff out of my ass...

 

[wraenking]

i find the easiest way to find top dead center is tp remove spark plug #1 and stuff a rag in the hole/ then crank over the engine (small little cranks, not enought to start) and the rag will blow out once it has hit top dead center. then make sure your lined up on the harmonic balancer and your good. initial timing on a sb 350 i believe is 10-12 degrees/ someone verify that for me. it might be 8 to 10

 

[75-K5]

Are you replacing it with a new 292 or a V8?

 

[Bigcasino]

size isn't everything

Sorry about the confusion- I'm putting a 292 back into it. I'm lucky to get 8 m.p.g. in the K5, so the 292 with a new one barrel sounded a lot less expensive for an everyday driver. Thanks!

 

[highrider_44s]

Is it a standard ?
If it is make sure you have the brass bearing in the center of the crank shaft. Then you tork the fly wheel in a criss cross patteren to 55 fb. Verry important that you get the alingment tool to aling the cluch disc with the center of the crank usually you get one with a new cluch but if you don't have it you NEED IT or you won't get the motor in once you get the disc lined up tork the cluch plate bolt to 35 fb

As for the intake i think its 35fb also tork down evenly from the center out. I usually put a little dab of cylicone in the 4 corners where
gaskets meet.


when you put the distributer once you find tdc on #1 (make sure it's on the compression stroke. The timing mark on the harmonic balcer should line up with the mark on the timing chain cover) Take the disributer cap off and line up the rotor where the #1 spark plug wire would be if the cap was on. you might have to turn the oil pump shaft under the distributer to line up with the bottom of the distributer. It should fire from there once you got it running use a timming light to set the timing at about 8- 10*

 

[Bigcasino]

Thanks Highrider

Yea, man, three on the tree! I did get the alignment tool, thanks for the info.
Am I correct in assuming that the number one cylinder is the front most? (furthest away from the firewall).

 

[PhoenixZorn]

It will be labelled on your intake manifold... the firing order should show where the plugs are.... if it's listed first, it's the front plug, if it's last, it's the back plug...

 

[highrider_44s]

Yea, man, three on the tree! I did get the alignment tool, thanks for the info.
Am I correct in assuming that the number one cylinder is the front most? (furthest away from the firewall).

yea it's the front one

 

[R72K5]

how i always do the old style clutches when i am putting in an engine into one is i take and set the pressure palte assembly and the clutch disc on the input shaft of the tranny first then setup my throwout bearing on the fork, grease up the input shaft real good and some in the pilot bearing in the crankshaft, then i set engine in and then i go under truck with a flywheel turn handle tool and i put in bolts all way around then start tightening them up all around til its tight and done

for the intake i never worry about torque i just tighten them up with brand new gasket

done

if theres a problem still then you may need ot have the manifolds planed at local machine shop

they probably just warped a little, would be no surprise at all.

what else do you need to know ?

the last 292 i did was from a 64 c-10 into a 68 c-30 grain dump i had, i pulled both 292's and put 64 one into the 68

they are easy is nothing to them at all,

if you notice, the pass side enigne mount is about 3" forward more than the driver side, alot of ppl dont understand or know this,

it is a special unique frame cradle engine mount bracket tree on the pass side,


good luck