Batteries dead again...

[diesel4me]

So sick of dead batteries--if I had $300 to throw away,I'd go buy two new ones,but after wasting the afternoon looking up prices and warranties ,I'm discouraged..

Since when does it have to cost $150 for a battery with a 2 year warranty ?..
Now many "economy" batteries have a measly 90 day warranty!..

Reading reviews,it appears over 50% of folks who bought a new one at most of the major retailers or parts stores had poor luck,some were dead upon installation,or sat on the shelf a year prior to being purchased,or they simply crapped out in less than 6 months..

Seems to me they aren't making good batteries any more,no matter who's name is on it..Exide is in chapter 11 and makes Interstates now,and Walmarts Ever Starts,(no more Johnson Controls ,they stopped using them)..Dekka can be had at Lowes but only if you order online and pick them up,so thats out for me..

Pep Boys doesn't have much for deals either--one near me is not very busy,I'm surprised they aren't belly up yet..

So far Walmart has the "best" warranty,they are "rolling back" prices on group 78 "Value" batteries at the one near my location ,to about $50,from $80...2 year warranty...but their reviews are not encouraging,that also applies to their higher priced batteries..and they no longer have the dual terminal 34/78 style ones I'd prefer either..truck still has side post cables and batteries,but I'm not a big fan of them..but I'd be happy if I got two batteries for about $100 instead of $300,but I know cheap batteries are often no bargain..(especially on a diesel )..

Tractor supply batteries don't seem to have many good reviews either..even Die Hards at Advance Auto only have a 2 year warranty and are $160..

I need to pay $1300 in property taxes next week (if I can limp to town hall by charging the batteries daily )...if not for that I'd just go blow $300 for two new batteries that'll make the truck worth maybe $500 with them included..

I could go buy two more "used" batteries at the salvage yard for $30 each with a core,and I had decent luck with them,but for once I'd like new ones if possible..

The truck now has a group 78 Interstate 6 year battery I paid $10 for at the flea market almost 2 years ago,and a dinky group 74 on the drivers side,a Duralast red top that was only a year old when I got it maybe 2-1/2 years ago..

I know your supposed to use 2 "matching" batteries ,but I've never had an issue running two that are "good" in parallel .The Duralast gold and regular Duralasts that came in the truck lasted me 13 years and were bought used !..

Pisses me off--stuck at home today,couldn't go see my friend like I usually do,and I may as well forget being able to go to the flea market tomorrow....again..and those 2 things are the only time I leave the house--no socializing sucks...
Want to be able to go places ,before the cold weather and getting dark at 4 pm makes me a total prisoner in my own home..

 

[dyeager535]

Why I dont buy "good" batteries anymore. I doubt many of us have the capability to test a new battery properly, so we wont know its weak until too late. Walmart has been the cheapest I have found, and honestly, significantly more than the chain auto stores on pretty much everything (antifreeze for $6/gal vs 11+ at chain auto stores).

Conversely, firmly convinced 90% of the population are full blown idiots. Buy a battery when it wont start, kill the next one because it was the charging circuit, then write a bad review because the battery they flattened failed shortly after repairing the actual problem. Its typical diagnosis by throwing parts at a problem, but a battery does not recover after going flat. At least not with vehicles that dont have a low voltage cutoff. The 90% dont get that.

I've had pretty good luck with the Walmart battery in the truck now, a couple years old, and sat for 8 months in the truck without issue. I'm also running a mini starter, so it doesnt have to work nearly as hard as it would otherwise, but I still cant complain...it starts and holds a charge still. About all you can ask for anymore. Only thing I hate about walmart is, they would ONLY put in the battery the truck supposedly came with. I get it, it's probably a liability and warranty deal, but kinda frustrating to not be able to use the battery you want, that fits. I actually had to go with the smaller one due to their policy. But these are starting batteries, not deep cycles, and all it should do is start and hold a charge. If the vehicle works properly, even the smallest used by GM is plenty...why spend more money on a larger battery that you dont need?

 

[Wes Harden]

I wonder what battery Wally world would recommend for my 1970 special construction beach buggy?? Or top post terminals on my chevy truck cable, would they through in the crappy ass adapters to make a side post work. I don't frequent wall mart, but $5 savings on anti freeze I could maybe suffer through for $10 savings on 2 gals.

 

[diesel4me]

Wes,Walmart has several group sizes available in the value line,for about $50--group 24,24F ,26,75,78, at least..other sizes may only be available in their higher priced line up..

I always buy 15W-40 there for under $10 a gallon in their "Tech 2000" brand,and lawn tractor batteries for about $22,buying those things elsewhere is just a waste of money...anti-freeze,gear oil,etc too..but that is about ALL I'll buy there..no food,clothes,or shoes..


I put two battery chargers on the truck overnight Saturday,one on each battery this time--none of my chargers put out over 10 amps and taper off as the battery builds up a charge,so one maybe wasn't quite enough to charge 2 of them at once (though I've never tried this before)...

Truck cranked over like I had 24 volts yesterday at 4 pm when I took the chargers off--left it running about 10 minutes and noticed the drivers side battery,a Duralast red top group 74,was bubbling out of one filler cap,and I could smell that sickening acid smell a battery with a bad cell makes--shut it off...

I took the battery out ,and saw a pile of the white dust on the battery tray indicating it was probably "fizzing" for some time recently...

I found a date code sticker on the battery,it was September of 2011..(9-11 !)...much older than I thought it was..still looks like new..was a used battery when I got it and the giver said it was "about a year old"..maybe he bought it from a salvage yard,who knows..but it served me well the past 2-3 years..

The other battery on the passenger side as I stated earlier is the $10 Interstate group 78 that has a 6 year warranty ,but no date code I can decipher on it,and the sticker wasn't punched out when it was sold..doesn't "look" old,but thats means nothing..

I assume the red top Duralast is fudged,so I left it out for now,and covered up the cables so they cant ground out ,and it seemed to start fine with just the Interstate alone--but hot the thing starts instantly--cold is the real test--the glow plugs sap the battery down a lot before you even crank it..

I usually get one shot at getting it to fire up,and if I dont race the engine some right away it tends to stall,and you don't get enough cranking speed to fire it back up again the second time even with two good batteries..

I think the Interstate is OK though..the Duralast was probably killing it,it probably has a shorted cell..
I'm going to load test both batteries at my friends shop before buying any...(He has a decent old school load tester that has a carbon plie)...
I don't trust the newer digital ones..

Since I could get 2 new batteries for a bit over $100 ,I can get two new group 78's and at least get the one year warranty out of them--reading many reviews,they claim they are made by one of the big 3 battery makers ,so why pay triple just to get another year or two warranty somewhere else..

It might be a struggle to stuff a 78 in the drivers side though,plow hoses and other things are in the way--I had to put a piece of wood under the Interstate ,as its a tad longer than the battery tray was..and rig up a hold down for it..the cranking amps is 600 on the value 78 batteries..

Half the time your denied getting a replacement anyways,at parts stores,Walmart at least doesn't hassle you,want it fully charged,load tested,etc..and Walmarts are everywhere,if it craps out away from home..Many other stores like Pep Boys,Advanced,Tractor Supply are only offering a 90 day free replacement on their lowest priced batteries..and want $30+ bucks more too!...


I am most likely going to hold my nose and breath ,wear my mask,and go buy at least one Walmart group 78 "value" Battery for 48.88 + tax,IF they have any in stock at either Walmart in my town--cant be any worse than what I have in the truck now....and pray I dont pick up a fatal dose of covid while I'm in there..positive cases are up over 1000 a day here the past week and 20-30 deaths daily ..makes me want to never leave my yard,period..

 

[diesel4me]

Tried to go buy two of Walmart's group 78 batteries today at the one closest to my house about a mile away..

They had 3 in stock--but one had no date code sticker,the two behind it had date codes of 2/20 on them...so that means they sat there EIGHT months,and who knows how long the dateless one was sitting there..
I wouldn't be surprised if all 3 are dead....

Glad I didn't bring the core batteries in the store and checked first to see if they had any 78's..it is like a 1/8 mile hike to the parking lot..

Asked an employee if they had any more batteries "out back" that may be newer,but he checked and said nope...

They did have some "fresh" batteries in other group sizes ,some even with October 2020 stickers,but most were top post ones,and though I like them better than side posts,I dont feel like cutting the cables up or using adapters...they had some group 75's that are the "stock" size for my truck that were fresh,but I'd prefer the larger 78 series..

There is another Walmart about 4 miles away I'll go to tomorrow ,see if they have any 78's that haven't sat there eight months...if not,I'll have to either go with a top post battery that'll fit in the tray and not hit the hood and still use the original hold down clamp,and fudge the cables with new top post ends--or go with two group 75's..

Its no wonder Walmart's batteries have some bad reviews ,many probably sit on the shelf maybe a year before someone buys them!..
I wouldn't be surprised if they just update the date code stickers too,rather than send them back to the supplier..

Some parts stores I worked at did that--sell a 3 year battery but put a 5 year sticker on it--boss said "they are just paying for 2 more years of warrantee ,the battery is the same dam thing..

 

[Blue85]

You could call around to the stores and make them check the stock and date codes before you drive. Some Walmarts have the tire and battery center entrance so you don't have to walk through the store.

Is there a used battery dealer in your area? I can't remember how I found this one guy but he buys batteries from salvage yards, dealerships and such, and will even bring batteries to you, all load tested and fully charged.

 

[diesel4me]

The two "Super Walmarts" in my town do not have an auto service department--both only sell motor oil,batteries,and a very limited selection of some parts like air & a few fuel filters and maybe some spark plugs..years ago they had a lot more stuff,but they scaled the automotive department way back ..

I usually park at the "garden" entrance so I dont have to walk a half mile to the auto section--but of course they had that blocked off yesterday,had to start my truck back up and move it to the "main" entrance,which is a long hike to the auto dept..legs were cramping before I even made it to the batteries..

Walmart sucks for buying batteries,they make you haul the cores to the "customer service desk" where you stand in line a long time,to get the core charges "refunded"--they make you pay the full amount,then go get "refunded"..why they cant do this at the register in the auto/hardware section is a mystery..and a pain in the ass..

I'm glad I didn't bring the cores in right away,I was limping by the time I got back to my truck after being disgusted to see the batteries I wanted had sat on the shelf 8 months..not sure I could have even wheeled them in a cart that far after walking that far once--I debated whether to just buy two group 75's instead,but they are lower cranking amps,and only one there was dated october--the rest had July stickers on them..

I am just going to have to go to the other store myself,and check out their batteries--I won't waste my time trying to get someone to check the date codes on the batteries over the phone,most likely the employee in the auto section wont know WTF I'm talking about,it'll likely be an older woman..(the male employee I spoke with yesterday admitted he was "filling in" for someone,he usually worked in the electronics dept and mostly stocks the shelves--so he wasn't much help)....

There are a few salvage yards in a 15 mile radius that sell used batteries,been years since I have bought any at any of them,and only one actually "tests" batteries and gives you 30 days to bring one back if it turns out to be junk,(and I've read online that they often blame the vehicle or customer and refuse to exchange or refund you if one turns out bad lately).
They all want cores too,they can get 10+ bucks for a core battery--I have at least 5 junk batteries I could scrap myself and pay for one new one !)..these "used" places now want $30+ bucks with a core,so $50 at Walmart for a new one with a one year warranty doesn't seem too outrageous..

I still am baffled why most places only offer 90 days on a new battery if it costs under 100+ bucks..at least Walmart offers a year free replacement--but they gotcha there too--if it dies and they give you another new one,they count however long you owned the first one against the year warranty on #2 !..

No one will deliver a battery here,neither new ones from any parts store,or salvage yards..its strictly "you come get it yourself"..
I only wish I could get one delivered,and not have to risk driving there,masking up,etc..

Places like Advanced Auto will bring parts ordered online to your door,but refuse to deliver anything from the store to "residential customers"..only commerical accounts like legit repair shops..(and batteries are one of the excluded items,along with motor oil,etc)..

The other salvage yards just point to a pile of used batteries and say "take your pick"--last time I bought one at one place,they laughed when I asked if they had a load tester,and handed me a tire iron and said "we just see how strong they arc when we short them out"...

I bought one that seemed pretty powerful and it lasted about 3 years,had a date sticker indicating it was 18 months old..back then it was $20 and your old battery--and they told me "You'll know in 2 weeks if its really good or not--don't come back 2 months from now and expect to exchange it"..
Think I'll stick with new ones this time..and wont be surprised if they dont pan out well..

 

[dyeager535]

Your store is ridiculous then. I parked in the "service" lot of my fairly rural wal-mart, they drove it into the bay, swapped batteries drove it back out and parked it, and I paid at the counter right there. I didnt touch a thing but my wallet and keys.

FWIW mine also has a "returned battery" shelf right at the same counter. Batteries are half the price of new, and have the battery test data sheet taped to each one. Got my yard tractor a spare for $10. Good thing I did, the new one lasted about two years. Gotta stop being lazy and letting it sit in the tractor all winter.

 

[Wes Harden]

Costco is similar, have to take batteries to customer service. Stupid, slummy corrosive nasty ass battery on the counter, where unaware people will be resting the hands arms personal belongings. Only to have the acid get into their skin and cloths.
The employees aren't equip to deal with battery either, but it's policy. Dumb.

 

[diesel4me]

Well,I bought two group 78's at the other Walmart this afternoon..

They had two that had July 2020 date codes,newest ones they had..
$48.88 on "rollback"...with a core..($12 core charge).

I chose them over the other two next to them,one had NO date sticker,the other was February 2020...(just like the other store I went to yesterday..)..most of the higher priced batteries were "fresh",but not all,even some of them had dates almost a year old sitting there..

I saw two group 24MXC marine batteries there that were 1000 "marine cranking amps",that had top posts and a 3/8" stud connection ,and October 2020 dated,I was tempted to spend $30 more each and get two of those,but they were about an inch taller,and though I knew they would likely fit under the hood ok (I have had big group 31's stuffed in the Burb before),I wasn't sure if the cables would reach,and I'm not really enthused about screwing around modifying things,the weather sucks here and the truck wont fit in my garage now without moving a fleet of garden tractors..plus I read a lot of negative reviews on them...

It rained this morning,stopped just long enough for me to go get the new batteries,and now we're in for two more days of heavier rain starting tomorrow early..

I'm letting the new batteries charge overnight before I put them in--they spun an old starter motor very briskly ,but I wanted to top them off after sitting 3 months in the store first..

So far the truck has fired right up on just the one Interstate,it was about 50 degrees--I need to go pay my property taxes and vote tomorrow ,probably will not get to install the new ones till late Friday or over the weekend..it may get cold enough to snow as the storm ends Friday too,but no accumulation here most likely..

Both Walmarts policy's are retarted --you must buy the batteries,pay the core charges,even if you have the cores in the shopping cart!--then go to the customer service desk,and get your core refund.....

I guess there is a price to pay for "low low prices"..that and the hike to the parking lot..by the time I got to the auto department,the furthest possible spot from the entrance in every Walmart--your about winded and wonder if you'll be able to make it back to the truck..

Luckily there was only a few people in line at the customer service desk ,so I wasn't trapped in the store for long...also found a dollar bill laying in the battery aisle!..probably loaded with covid,but I took it anyway..

 

[Blue85]

Costco is similar, have to take batteries to customer service. Stupid, slummy corrosive nasty ass battery on the counter, where unaware people will be resting the hands arms personal belongings. Only to have the acid get into their skin and cloths.
The employees aren't equip to deal with battery either, but it's policy. Dumb.

Costco here has tire and battery at the front of the store. No need to enter the main store at all.

 

[ktmoutfront]

Next thing to save up for is a battery tender. I get 5 or 6 years out of a battery, even when not being used.

 

[diesel4me]

Yeah,I should,I wouldn't have 2 dead lawn tractor batteries if I had one --maybe..they all seem to expire in 2 years or less no matter how good you care for them..Walmart gets $22 for them with a core,so I've just been buying new ones..last ones I got 5 years ago are still "semi" working,I let them sit idle too long between charges & uses..

Harbor Frieght is right down the road,but I've never set foot in there yet,it opened over a year ago--I know if I go in there I'll come out with $200 tool boxes and a hundred other items...I do need a 4" grinder though..they have battery tenders for like $5...

One of my chargers has a trickle charge you can adjust with a knob like a volume control from zero to 1.5 amps for the dinky batteries on riding mowers and motorcycles...it charges at 6 amps otherwise with a self tapering feature as the battery builds up a charge...its a Sears one my dad bought around 1978 ,still works good,I've used it a lot..

Two other chargers I bought at the flea market are 6 and 10 amp old Shumacher ones that work OK,but they never seem to put out more than 4 amps on the gauge no matter how dead the battery is..

Not sure if they taper off either,so I don't leave them on longer than overnight..also have a 1 amp motorcycle charger of the same brand.

I got a like new digital readout charger from my friend that crapped out the second time he used it...think its a Shumacher too--took it apart,cant see anything wrong with it,no blown fuses,burnt things,etc,I suppose a microchip in the digital "smart board" fried..seems a shame to scrap it,but I'm not a tech that can fix it..

I also dragged home an old large Solar wheeled charger ,think it needs new diodes ,there is a part number listed online but its "NLA"....
It has multiple settings and 225 amp "starting boost".
I read on a forum someone with the same unit used diodes from an alternator in theirs and it worked,but I am probably just going to scrap it..its 1970's vintage and had a tough life..

No Costco stores in my local area,I think there is a few in MA but not here..we have a BJ's wholesale nearby,next to Tractor Supply in the town next to mine,only walked thru there once,never joined up or went there when they had the "free" temporary offer--it looked just like Walmart to me only more "warehouse" than retail..

I wish we had a Menards or Rural King here,they carry a lot of stuff none of the other stores do and have better prices..

 

[Wes Harden]

Costco here has tire and battery at the front of the store. No need to enter the main store at all.

If you need to take a bad batt back it goes in to customer service

 

[Blue85]

I just brought one in a few weeks ago. They took the old one at the battery counter and gave me a new one for free because it was still within the full replacement period. The line was 20 minutes (the customers are all asking 50 questions on what kind of tires are good for their boring car) so if they had sent me to another line I might have ignored them, taken my new battery and left.

 

[Blue85]

I got a like new digital readout charger from my friend that crapped out the second time he used it...think its a Shumacher too--took it apart,cant see anything wrong with it,no blown fuses,burnt things,etc,I suppose a microchip in the digital "smart board" fried..seems a shame to scrap it,but I'm not a tech that can fix it .

I have one that's probably the same. I think they were optimistic in the capacity of the main output transistor, trying to save it by managing the duty cycle on "Engine start" mode. I replaced that transistor and got another 6 months out of it, then something went on the main board and I haven't been motivated on it. I've just been using an older Schumacher of the same size and it always works.

I also dragged home an old large Solar wheeled charger ,think it needs new diodes ,there is a part number listed online but its "NLA"....
It has multiple settings and 225 amp "starting boost".
I read on a forum someone with the same unit used diodes from an alternator in theirs and it worked,but I am probably just going to scrap it..its 1970's vintage and had a tough .

The exact diode is not important, you just need something that can carry the high current.

 

[Wes Harden]

@Blue85 maybe covid changed the way they do it, haven't had the pleasure of returning one in a long
While

 

[diesel4me]

I have one that's probably the same. I think they were optimistic in the capacity of the main output transistor, trying to save it by managing the duty cycle on "Engine start" mode. I replaced that transistor and got another 6 months out of it, then something went on the main board and I haven't been motivated on it. I've just been using an older Schumacher of the same size and it always works.

The exact diode is not important, you just need something that can carry the high current.

That big charger on wheels was one my friend had since new probably and was used daily at his shops,so it is probably not worth messing with--it was working ok until one day he plugged it in when he had clamped the two cables to the metal handle and found out it was still "on"...no smoke or burnt smell,it just made a loud "snap" and then it wouldn't put out any voltage...

I didn't dive too deeply into it,I did take the covers off and looked for any lunched components,saw nothing ,and plugged it in,heard nothing,but a slight hum from the transformer,so I assume that still works..the cooling fan was lying in the bottom of the case,it came off the shaft of the little motor that spins it,(which worked)..I shoved it back on..

My friend had spliced the cord a few times and thought maybe it failed at the splice so I cut off the spliced part and connected it to the place it went originally,and made sure it had 110V coming out at the cord,that was as far as I went with it...the switches are all loose and possibly bad,and likely not available any more,but it is a maze of wires inside,and I'm not putting any money in it...

I see working units like it at the flea market for $20 or so often,I'd rather buy one that works..

The digital "smart charger" is junk too I guess,unless I can manage to figure out a way to by pass the now not so smart circutry and use it as a "constant output" charger...I'd never buy one of those,they are too fragile and cant be used for other purposes like powering a electrolosis tank ..
Old school chargers are good enough for my needs,I have no vehicles with a computer..and I see them for sale cheap everywhere..I paid less than $5 for the ones I have now at the flea market..

My truck fired up this morning on the one Interstate battery and got me to the bank,town hall,and the pharmacy,and to vote without dying on me...had to start it like 6 times..
I took one of the new batteries I charged overnight with me just in case,glad I didn't have to jump it,its pouring out again now,it was drizzling when I left..not going to install the new ones till it clears up,probably Saturday..going to be only 45 for a high temp then though..

I also noticed the temperature gauge has not gone much past 100 degrees the past week or so--might be time for a thermostat,I've never put one in it since I got the truck in 2003..tried grounding the sending unit wire and it pegs the gauge,maybe the sending unit is failing,I hate to mess with the thermostat housing,it most likely wont let the bolts come out without them breaking off or the casting snapping off by the looks of it..feeling the upper hose,the engine seems "normally hot" to me,but the gauge previously always was between the 1/4 and 3/4 mark depending on the outside temps..

It's always something......
Next on the list is a new fuel tank,and replace the forward spring hanger on the rear spring next to the tank while its out--and weld up some spots on the frame best I can before it gets any worse..front brakes and rotors are about "done" too..not looking forward to doing any of this,especially this time of year..

 

[fordsucks!]

I use a 3amp "battery tender" charger and maintainer. I love it. These are $80 in stores but my wife sells them for $30 (old costco overstock). If anyone needs one, just let me know.

 

[HankScorpio]

I have never had any of those problems at walmart. I just grab a shopping cart from the parking lot, throw my core in and take it to the auto desk. They take my core right there, no problem. The good yellow tops cost $120 and have a 5 year waranty. Never had a problem, even in my dune buggy that sits all winter. I have also run the yellow ones in my deuce and a half at 24v series, lasted well past the 5 year waranty, also not daily use. The value batteries are cheap for a reason, they suck. I quit buying name brand batteries at least 10 years ago, walmart ones work great. Walmart doesn't make batteries anyway, they just have their name put on them.