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Battery Isolator

cegusman

3/4 ton status
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Apr 25, 2001
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Houston/Katy, Tx
Plan on buy in 2 Optima Yellow tops for my 6.2 diesel k5. From the factory tha batteries are just hooked in parallel, is there any reason I should add an Isolator.
 
I use the one from hellroaring technologies and I am extremely impressed. I t isloates the batteries so you slways have a back-up or combines them for more capability. I have never seen such a complete kit. Usually you have to modify and add stuff to make it work but this wasn't the case. Highy recommended.
 
uberbeans said:
I use the one from hellroaring technologies and I am extremely impressed. I t isloates the batteries so you slways have a back-up or combines them for more capability. I have never seen such a complete kit. Usually you have to modify and add stuff to make it work but this wasn't the case. Highy recommended.

Likewise! This kit rocks! I've seen them in action....

I've got one, but I just have to install it :doah:
 
My stuff.................
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I may be one of the few. But all of my diesels the batteries are run without any type of isolation. I have been a gm tech for years. I have YET to have a problem. Should one battery fail causing the other to drop voltage I will replace both batteries anyway. Just my opinion and my experience. But I see batteries as a maintenance item. You generaly see signs of failure before you get stuck.

:laugh:
 
With the hellroaring isolators, IIRC 1 single unit won't work with a diesel, i believe you need to run 2 in parallel. Check their website to be sure tho....
 
cegusman said:
Looks like I will just run the batteries in parallel like from the factory.

Thats the easiest and cheapest. Dontoe's set up with isolation diodes is next step up. Still cheap and provides isolation.
 
cegusman said:
Looks like I will just run the batteries in parallel like from the factory.

I have a gasser but I just installed my second battery a tad ago...
dual 1000ca duralast golds..... they are in parallel. I do have a 90A isolator.. im going to put my dual tractor trailer batteries in the bed and hook my winch to those.. use the isolater to keep those off of my main batteries.. but be able to jump across if I need the extra batteries :wink1:
 
Gas here. I wanted back-up for long weekend camping, etc. I also used a Marine switch; Hella Marine with the key, from Summit. I got the diesel batt. tray from LMC. Turns out its GM factory.
Oh well, pic too big. 1985 diesel wiring diagram for batt. #2 except I put in a batt. cut-off switch on the ground cable. Switch off that ground and batt. #2 is isolated. Now I gotta make-up a bracket for the switch.
 
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Or mine... I've almost burnt my truck down several times I'm sure.... none of my buddies will push buttons or flip switches in my truck cuz they're scared to get shocked (it only hurts the first couple times)..... I have no idea what I'm doing... thanks for the recommendations. X2 on your beautiful wiring :bow:

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littlejimmythatcould said:
Or mine... I've almost burnt my truck down several times I'm sure.... none of my buddies will push buttons or flip switches in my truck cuz they're scared to get shocked (it only hurts the first couple times)..... I have no idea what I'm doing... thanks for the recommendations. X2 on your beautiful wiring :bow:


Holy clusterf*ck:eek1:
 
littlejimmythatcould said:
Or mine... I've almost burnt my truck down several times I'm sure.... none of my buddies will push buttons or flip switches in my truck cuz they're scared to get shocked (it only hurts the first couple times)..... I have no idea what I'm doing... thanks for the recommendations. X2 on your beautiful wiring :bow:
I like the Von Dutch eyeball look of the switch on the carpet. That definetely requires caution to avoid shock.:haha: TGIF
 
Yeah, I want to learn how to do better wiring. Instead of wiring everything hot to the positive battery terminal. I've got about 5 or 6 things wired directly to the battery with inline fuse in there somewhere. I'm actually starting to run out of room to put things on the positive battery terminal. That's why I was thinking about dual batteries, so I'd have another positve post to stick stuff on. I realize all of that sounds reallly dumb, but I've been looking for a way to do better wiring. I just don't want to pull all of my wires. The wiring in my truck is really bad from me and PO's. It's not good when a bunch of hillbillies work on the same truck. I really need to standardize my wiring and get all of the same gauges and COLORS straight. It's a mess:doah:
edit: that "eyeball" is my horn button, I had it screwed onto the dash with some sheetmetal screws but my buddy was "helping" me wire up my tach and we borrowed some wiring from it and it fell off one day while I was driving. Yeah, it's wired directly to the battery and then around the truck and back to the negative battery terminal.
 
littlejimmythatcould said:
I've got about 5 or 6 things wired directly to the battery with inline fuse in there somewhere. I'm actually starting to run out of room to put things on the positive battery terminal. That's why I was thinking about dual batteries, so I'd have another positve post to stick stuff on.

Terminal strip

or

Bus bar

One 10 or 8 gauge wire from battery pos to the term. strip or bus bar, then run all your accessory positive wires from the strip or bar. Ground as required to the body or frame. Make sure your ground straps from body-to-frame, engine-to-frame, and engine-to-body are in good shape. If not, replace them.
That's a down 'n dirty lesson in wiring...
 
I take twice the time I suppose, to make it last. Someone mentioned last year to fill the connections with dielectric grease and heat shrink them. I've done that on all 'em them since then. Great idea of someone's!!! I used to wire boats for Dixie Boatworks and wish I'd have thought of that back then!

Battery and connections/remote solenoid.
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Circuit breaker panel for my accessories.
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