I'm not going to lie, I am absolutely no help on this issue, but sounds like some serious coinage... If you do go that route, please repost on here and let me/us know how it works for you? Obviously our projects are never done and that might be something to do in the future...
CK5
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bbc headers?
- Thread starter dirtbag7
- Start date
I have ceramic coated headers on my regal and there is no way I would touch them, they still get hot. I think the ceramic coating retains more heat than no coating, but no exhaust header or manifold (unless it is water cooled like my big block boat manifolds) is cool enough to touch.
With that said, not using headers because of underhood temps robbing power is a waste. The increased flow of headers over manifolds far outperforms the increased underhood temp. The manifolds probably get just as hot, they just have less surface area to transfer it to the air. Also, headers cool down a lot quicker after you shut the car off than manifolds.
As for your paint on your hood, chances are that was the paint itself or the weather, not the headers, the timing was probably just a coincidence. I know people with headers on all sorts of vehicles and I have never had them fade the paint on the hood.
With that said, not using headers because of underhood temps robbing power is a waste. The increased flow of headers over manifolds far outperforms the increased underhood temp. The manifolds probably get just as hot, they just have less surface area to transfer it to the air. Also, headers cool down a lot quicker after you shut the car off than manifolds.
As for your paint on your hood, chances are that was the paint itself or the weather, not the headers, the timing was probably just a coincidence. I know people with headers on all sorts of vehicles and I have never had them fade the paint on the hood.
I agree, if header heat was indeed the cause then the paint on the frame, inner fenderwells and inside of the fender itself would also be damaged.
goofy1
1/2 ton status
Tech from one of the better known coating companies
http://www.jet-hot.com/techinfo.html
The header companies use their own stuff, I think, but probably all very similar in results.
http://www.jet-hot.com/techinfo.html
The header companies use their own stuff, I think, but probably all very similar in results.
my understanding is that the JetHot blows away any of the manufacturers ceramic coating... iirc, most headers run about $300 to have coated...
Just to give everyone an update on this one... I bought the flowtechs that said they would work for my 4WD app...well, I'm here to tell you that they will fit alright, but they will only actually WORK if you don't plan on putting in a front driveshaft.... The collector is pointing directly into the front output of the T-case.... No good...
OOMUD
Registered Member
I just put in a 203/205 doubler with a 2" clock up and my old long tube headers would not fit. I put on a set of hedman block hugger headers (part # 68610). They fit but I had to do a few things to get them there. First off I am ruining a OED High Clearance Engine Cross member with a set of polly motor mounts from DIY 4x4. I am not sure if they will fit with the factory set up. Then I had to install a oil filter relocate kit because the collector hit the filter. Then on the pass side i had to trim off the corner of the trans belhousing were the torqe converter cover bolts to. I just got these on there and had exhaust put on last sat. and so far the only issue is the pass. side floor Bord gets a little hot.
Don't waste your $$$$ on Jet Hot I have 2 sets of BBC headers ,that were Jet Hot coated inside & out.
Both on occasional drivers, garage kept ,never driven in snow or rain.
The coating has flaked off both sets , sent one set back for recoat under warranty , coating again flaking off after about 6-8 months of limited use. The other set I picked up from a friend afer he switched to stainless .
First pic is of the set that was sent back & recoated ,the coating flaked off worse the second time around
Car saw very limited street time & was always garaged .
Second pic is the set I got from a friend, his car saw more street time than mine ,but still very little ,also garaged when not in use.
Both on occasional drivers, garage kept ,never driven in snow or rain.
The coating has flaked off both sets , sent one set back for recoat under warranty , coating again flaking off after about 6-8 months of limited use. The other set I picked up from a friend afer he switched to stainless .
First pic is of the set that was sent back & recoated ,the coating flaked off worse the second time around
Car saw very limited street time & was always garaged .
Second pic is the set I got from a friend, his car saw more street time than mine ,but still very little ,also garaged when not in use.
Fwiw, I did buy the Sanderson shorty headers I mentioned in my previous post and they fit perfectly. I have not installed them yet because I sent them out for coating but when I test fit them they were perfect - had 1/2"~3/4" of clearance to the frame, no bellhousing or starter problems and cleared the hydro slave cylinder with room to spare. They were expensive but worth it.
fmstruck
1/2 ton status
I used Dynomax 85089 longtubes in my '84 K5. I put factory hydro clutch in my '84 and the back tube cleared it, but only by about a 1/4".
I just flattened the tube a little bit and wrapped the header for about 6".
Everything else is okay. One thing I've always done since the collector ends up being so close to the driveshaft on these trucks is to saw off the flange, have my exhaust man swell the head pipe to fit over the header and use a pre-formed band type exh clamp to connect the two. No pesky collector gaskets to screw with. One of my trucks (that I wheel) has been together for 3 years with no problems.
I just flattened the tube a little bit and wrapped the header for about 6".
Everything else is okay. One thing I've always done since the collector ends up being so close to the driveshaft on these trucks is to saw off the flange, have my exhaust man swell the head pipe to fit over the header and use a pre-formed band type exh clamp to connect the two. No pesky collector gaskets to screw with. One of my trucks (that I wheel) has been together for 3 years with no problems.
blueblazes44
1/2 ton status
Same here. Perfect fit and good price. The only mod needed for me was the addition of a "torque strap" from block to frame to keep p/s header off of frame. But this is a hot bb in a bogger that only sees wot.
Probably not needed in street form.454 blazer
1/2 ton status
Ive got these on mine:
IMG]http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr252/454blazer/25062009013.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr252/454blazer/22072009454.jpg[/IMG]
Hope this helps.
IMG]http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr252/454blazer/25062009013.jpg[/IMG]
IMG]http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr252/454blazer/22072009454.jpg[/IMG]
Hope this helps.
Have you had these in the truck yet? I've got headers that fit between the frame rails, but looks to be clearance issues with the front driveshaft and tranny shifter... Yours lookto be shorter than the ones I have, what are they?
