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Beadlocks legallity and TR beadlocks, you opinion Stephan?

Emmettology 101

Emmettology 101

3/4 ton status
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Now that you sell TR beadlocks I was wondering what your opinion is? You have been running the TR beadlocks for some time now, what do you think? Have you used them on road much?

Here is a link to the POR board where they are saying it is legal: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&amp;threadid=29140>http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&amp;threadid=29140</a>

Also, I see you are running 5 inches of backspaing and have a width of 86inches... Is 5" the most you can run with the D60 and 16.5 bedadlocks? I would like to make mine a little narrower.. With the 35x15.50's and my Bart wheels i can barely "Squeeze" between the fenderwells on an 83" width trailer(cause of sidewall budgle at 25psi)....


Mike

&lt;a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101&gt;EMMETT&lt;/a&gt;
says: "<font color=green>It ain't easy being Green!</font color=green>
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by Emmettology 101 on 02/07/02 10:44 AM.</FONT></P>
 
I've been happy so far. They have a centering ring on them so the bead stays centered on the wheel, they run true and seem really tough. I don't have any weight on them and they run way better than I expected a 42" tsl to run on the highway. Easily stable up to 75-80 mph, if you want to use the fuel to push it that fast!
Trail Ready says specifically that they are not DOT legal, I think that's just covering their butt. If they are, then they are. I know there's been a lot about this on the pirate board and some there are VERY interested in getting to the bottom of it. I think a lot of it just has to do with keeping your nose clean and not getting stopped in the first place, but then stuff happens, especially to us it seems.

I think you might be able to get more backspacing, especially if you are willing to cut the knuckle arm off, grind a little on the caliper and mess with the shape of the steering arm. You could probably get 6" easily, going to 7" would require all the mods I listed above.
You could also go to the 8.25" wheel. With all the tricks you could probably get close to 80" outside. A hummer wheel is probably just what you're looking for, you might look into those.
I kind of like the 86" stance, it has about the right amount out of the fender without being overly wide. Without the fenders, I'd be into making it a bit narrower if I could.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
SW-ORD
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
 
I have been looking into the Hummer rims... Pat gremillion is running them with no mods to his D60(I imagine they are probably runnign steering arms that would clear them).. I do liek the stance of yours and I never really measured mine other than pulling it on my buddies trailer...

Hummer rims would be nice since its a cheaper route and they are technically DOT legal, but i dont want to run too narrow...


Mike

<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>EMMETT</a>
says: "<font color=green>It ain't easy being Green!</font color=green>
 
Around here we've noticed that having your tires stick out sometimes helps you on the trail. :) While it's crappy to be extra-wide...having your tire bounce off the tree instead of your fender is much cheaper!!!

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
I think everybody's idea on width is a little different. For trail only use the more tire and less body the better, but on the street or trail you're guaranteed to get really dirty and maybe get a ticket. I've had pretty good luck with 3-4 inches of tire outside. I've had really bad luck with the stock width on the 14 bolt and stock wheels (narrow)

I think pat had to mess with either the wheel or run spacers to make the hummer rims work. I was just up there and didn't think to look or ask. I know a lot of guys will run a small spacer and unmodified wheels. From what I've seen the hummer wheels are a real mess. Lots of variations, some guys have some of the parts but not all of them, fairly expensive, etc. But if you learn enough about them you'll probably do fine.
And they're REALLY heavy.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
SW-ORD
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
 
You're definitely right. I had forgotten about throwing mud/snow/gravel all over the side of your truck from having tire stick out.

I keep mine tucked in the fenders, but I have 35s. My buddies with 38s and bigger all have some serious stickout. Here you won't get a ticket for it, but there are many reasons why you really don't want all that tire sticking out.

I even think it looks cool...until gravel chips up the side of your truck.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
I've seen the inside of a couple windshield plastered with mud, that's less fun too. It's mostly maneuverability for me, at 110" wheelbase now it's getting a touch long for tight trails and it's nice to be a bit narrower.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
SW-ORD
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.offroaddesign.com>www.offroaddesign.com</a>
 
Tell me again....the TR's have a lock on the outside ring and not the inner? You haven't had problems blowing tires off of the inner bead? I'm undecided on what to do. On one hand, I could almost buy offest 15's with the money save buying tires for 15's instead of 16.5's. Hopefully it will be another year or more before I wear out my 44's ($$$$$).
 
Stephen,
I think you covered this, but clearify it for me. You didn't have to do any mods for the 5" back spacing correct? Also did you put in a spacer in the rear or did you leave the narrower stance back there? And whats your opinion on spacers on a 1ton axle? Personally I wouldn't even think about running a spacer on a half ton because of all the weight on the axle shafts, but then again were talking about 1tons where the weight isn't on the axle shafts.
 
Yes, I know my name's not Stephen. I am running a Dana 70HD out of a dually. I bought 2 1/2" spacers when I was installing it because I thought the insides of my tires were gonna hit the inner fenders. It put the rear track width almost exactly the same as my front single wheel D60. They are made from 6061 aluminum with eight 9/16" studs. I have not had any problems, but I wish I had not wasted my $$$. I am considering removing them to keep my rear tires out of the tracks left by the fronts in the mud. I'd love to sell them.
 
OK, TR's lock the outside, not the inside. Apparently the inside is not stressed near as much as I've never even heard a hiss from them. I've been down to 7-8 psi on the rocks and 5-6 in snow with no problems.
If you were really motivated you could look at adding some material to the wheel to help retain the inner bead but I haven't seen the need yet. I may later, hard to tell. But I've done some pretty hard stuff with it and they've been fine.

the 5" backspace fits fine on the axle, adequate room for the steering linkage, etc. If you want to go more than that you're going to need custom work on some of those parts.

I am running spacers in the rear to make it the same width as the front. Not sure about the benefits of that vs drawbacks. I think I still like it for the stability and stickout more than I dislike it for the extra width and turning circle.
 
thing about hummer rims is they are narrow. and they now come in a new size. 16 inch by 9 or 9.25(something like that 16 inches tall, i KNOW that)
so the old ones are easyier to find and the new ones are nicer.
Grant
 
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