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Bearings, Hubs and Grease Question

sponsoredbydad

sponsoredbydad

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I was just wondering what the consensuses is, if one needs to really fill the gap between the bearings inside the hubs and how much if so, and does it really make it to the bearings or is it more just to keep it from melting and running off the bearings? I just replaced my bearings and cleaned out the inside of the hubs really good, I greased only the bearings(but was not skimpy with it either) and now am 2nd guessing that discussion. :dunno: I drove them about 5 miles got out to touch the hubs and they were kinda hot, hot like i could not touch em for longer than about 3-4 seconds. Maybe I got them too tight but now the grease thing has got me a thinkin too. So if I have to open them up again I wondered if more grease was gona be needed.
 
sponsoredbydad said:
I was just wondering what the consensuses is, if one needs to really fill the gap between the bearings inside the hubs and how much if so, and does it really make it to the bearings or is it more just to keep it from melting and running off the bearings? I just replaced my bearings and cleaned out the inside of the hubs really good, I greased only the bearings(but was not skimpy with it either) and now am 2nd guessing that discussion. :dunno: I drove them about 5 miles got out to touch the hubs and they were kinda hot, hot like i could not touch em for longer than about 3-4 seconds. Maybe I got them too tight but now the grease thing has got me a thinkin too. So if I have to open them up again I wondered if more grease was gona be needed.
Click to expand...
Fresh bearings I spoon it on. Having said that, too tight will generate heat.

Pull em apart, grease the :poo: out of em and torque them to the right spec.


Is this a newer hub you were looking for last week?
 
I always put a healthy blob of grease inside the hub between the bearings..other guys I know only pack the bearings and put no more grease in there,and they seem to have no problems..neither have I,though I have read too much grease can lead to churning and overheating..
 
bent72 said:
The inside. Outside i whap it down good against the collar.
Like diesely said, don't go hog wild on grease
Click to expand...

Pretty sure the manuals say to put a bit between the bearings. I'm guessing perhaps with extra heat it could start to flow a bit and this ensures there is enough to keep the bearings lubed even if the grease starts to soften up and flow out of them.

I've pulled apart a fair number of spindles and noticed that a majority are burned. My suspicion is that proper bearing setup is the culprit there, but improper lube probably wouldn't help either.

I always follow the GM procedure for wheel bearings, even though its still not a precise science.
 
The inside nut gets the torque? Well that might explain it . This is the first time I have ever used a torque wrench on a bearing install. Thought I'd give it a shot after listening, Er reading Deulings thread
 
Last edited:
Too much grease can cause more heat. I pack the bearings themselves well and put a smear on everything else.

The torque, I thought you were supposed to hit a spec on the inner nut then back off 1/4 turn- to help set the bearings (make sure they're in place) then do the normal spin the wheel while tightening the nut and stop when the slack is up - kinda like pushrods.

Then you torque the locknut to make sure nothing moves.
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Too much grease can cause more heat. I pack the bearings themselves well and put a smear on everything else.

The torque, I thought you were supposed to hit a spec on the inner nut then back off 1/4 turn- to help set the bearings (make sure they're in place) then do the normal spin the wheel while tightening the nut and stop when the slack is up - kinda like pushrods.

Then you torque the locknut to make sure nothing moves.
Click to expand...
50 lb then back 1/4 turn.

That said, over powering the outer will strip the spindle
 
I just did spindle bearing, hub bearing, installed a different set of locking hubs etc. the whole works about a month ago.

You torques the inner nut to 50 lbs., back it off 1/4 turn then you put that washe with holes in it (lock washer?) on then the second (outer) nut gets torqued to 50 lbs. against the lock washer.
 
I let all of my junk sit in gas over night to break down all the grease the washed everything with warm water with dish soap, when I reassembled I only packed the bearing and applied grease to certain areas like some on the slindle. I didn't pack the hubs full of grease.

It drove fine but I didn't drive it much before I traded it either so I can't comment on the longevity of only greasing the bearings.

Maybe the new owner will call and ask me why the front end is acting weird...
 
Out of the '87 Manual:

Disassembly/reassembly:

Important
• Use an approved high-temperature front wheel
bearing grease. Refer to MAINTENANCE AND
LUBRICATION (SEC. 0B).
• Do not mix greases as mixing may change the
grease’s properties resulting in poor performance.
2. Apply a thin film of grease to the spindle at the outer
wheel bearing seat and at the inner wheel bearing
seat, shoulder, and seal seat.
3. Put a small quantity of grease inboard of each wheel
bearing cup, inside the rotor/hub (257).
4. Fill the wheel bearing (cone and roller assemblies) full
of grease.
• Use a cone-type grease packer that forces
grease into the bearing.
• If a cone-type grease packer is not available,
pack the wheel bearings by hand.
• If packing the wheel bearings by hand, work the
grease into the bearings between the rollers,
cones, and the cage.
NOTICE: Failure to completely pack the wheel
bearings (cones, rollers, and cage) with grease
will result in premature wheel bearing damage
and/or wear.
5. Inner wheel bearing (259) into the rotor/hub (257).
• Put an additional quantity of grease outboard of
this wheel bearing.
6. New seal (260).
• Use a flat plate to install the seal so it is flush
with the rotor/hub flange.
• Lubricate the seal lip with a thin layer of grease.
7. Rotor/hub (257).
• Do not damage the spindle threads.
8. Outer wheel bearing (253).
• Press on the spindle until the wheel bearing fully
seats against the rotor/hub outer race.
9. Adjusting nut (252).
10. Adjust the wheel bearing.
• Refer to “Wheel Bearing Adjustment,” in this
section.


Bearing adjustment:

Adjust
• Raise the vehicle and support it with safety stands.
1. Remove the locking hub assembly (249), lock nut
250), and the ring (251).
Tighten
• Adjusting nut (252) to 60 N m (50 ft. lbs.)
while rotating the hub/rotor in order to seat
the bearings.
2. Back off the adjusting nut (252) and retighten.
£ Tighten
• For Automatic Hubs, torque the adjusting nut
to 47 N m (35 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
• For Manual Hubs, torque the adjusting nut to
60 N m (50 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
3. Back off the adjusting nut (252).
• For Automatic hubs, back off 3/s of a turn
maximum.
• For Manual hubs, back off enough to free the
bearing.
4. Ring (251) and lock nut (252).
• Tang on the inside diameter of the ring must
pass onto the slot on the spindle (265).
• The hole in the ring must align with the pin on
the lock nut (250). Move the adjustment nut (252)
to align the pin.
Tighten
• Lock nut (250) to 217 N m (160 ft. lbs.)
minimum.
Measure
Endplay in the hub/rotor assembly. It should be set
between 0.025 to 0.254 mm (0.001 to 0.010-inch).
5. Locking hub assembly (249).
• Refer to FRONT AXLE (SEC. 4C).
6. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
 
dyeager535 said:
Out of the '87 Manual:

Disassembly/reassembly:

Important
• Use an approved high-temperature front wheel
bearing grease. Refer to MAINTENANCE AND
LUBRICATION (SEC. 0B).
• Do not mix greases as mixing may change the
grease’s properties resulting in poor performance.
2. Apply a thin film of grease to the spindle at the outer
wheel bearing seat and at the inner wheel bearing
seat, shoulder, and seal seat.
3. Put a small quantity of grease inboard of each wheel
bearing cup, inside the rotor/hub (257).
4. Fill the wheel bearing (cone and roller assemblies) full
of grease.
• Use a cone-type grease packer that forces
grease into the bearing.
• If a cone-type grease packer is not available,
pack the wheel bearings by hand.
• If packing the wheel bearings by hand, work the
grease into the bearings between the rollers,
cones, and the cage.
NOTICE: Failure to completely pack the wheel
bearings (cones, rollers, and cage) with grease
will result in premature wheel bearing damage
and/or wear.
5. Inner wheel bearing (259) into the rotor/hub (257).
• Put an additional quantity of grease outboard of
this wheel bearing.
6. New seal (260).
• Use a flat plate to install the seal so it is flush
with the rotor/hub flange.
• Lubricate the seal lip with a thin layer of grease.
7. Rotor/hub (257).
• Do not damage the spindle threads.
8. Outer wheel bearing (253).
• Press on the spindle until the wheel bearing fully
seats against the rotor/hub outer race.
9. Adjusting nut (252).
10. Adjust the wheel bearing.
• Refer to “Wheel Bearing Adjustment,” in this
section.


Bearing adjustment:

Adjust
• Raise the vehicle and support it with safety stands.
1. Remove the locking hub assembly (249), lock nut
250), and the ring (251).
Tighten
• Adjusting nut (252) to 60 N m (50 ft. lbs.)
while rotating the hub/rotor in order to seat
the bearings.
2. Back off the adjusting nut (252) and retighten.
£ Tighten
• For Automatic Hubs, torque the adjusting nut
to 47 N m (35 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
• For Manual Hubs, torque the adjusting nut to
60 N m (50 ft. lbs.) while rotating the wheel.
3. Back off the adjusting nut (252).
• For Automatic hubs, back off 3/s of a turn
maximum.
• For Manual hubs, back off enough to free the
bearing.
4. Ring (251) and lock nut (252).
• Tang on the inside diameter of the ring must
pass onto the slot on the spindle (265).
• The hole in the ring must align with the pin on
the lock nut (250). Move the adjustment nut (252)
to align the pin.
Tighten
• Lock nut (250) to 217 N m (160 ft. lbs.)
minimum.
Measure
Endplay in the hub/rotor assembly. It should be set
between 0.025 to 0.254 mm (0.001 to 0.010-inch).
5. Locking hub assembly (249).
• Refer to FRONT AXLE (SEC. 4C).
6. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
Click to expand...

It's not truck wheel bearings but I checked the bearings on two horse trailers last year that traveled multi thousands of miles a year and all four wheels on each trailer wiggled because the bearings were so loose. I snugged them up but was amazed at the miles they had gone like that. They each ran a nice warm temp every time I checked them on the road too, even being so loose.

Point being I think a bearing that is ever so slightly too loose is better that too tight. You don't want end play but past that you probably don't want much tighter.
 
I've always tightened the inner nut while spinning the rotor (or tire),then back it off until I feel some play,and turn the nut in just enough to eliminate all end play,then assemble the lock ring and outer nut..

Sometimes after awhile I'll notice the bearings had a little noticeable slack next time I have it jacked up to change a tire,etc,and have to readjust them...
I'd rather have a slight amount of looseness than too tight,since bearings likely expand after they heat up during normal driving..but too loose will pound them out in a hurry too,as well as cause sloppy steering and handling..

My friend who has been a mechanic at his own tire shop for almost 20 years has done hundreds of wheel bearings,and he tells me he always just "tightened the inner nut snug by hand as tight as he can" on 4x4's like ours,after doing the spinning & torquing to seat new races in--he claims he's never had a comeback as far as burnt up bearings or other issues..:dunno:..
 
I just did the 14 bolt on my '95 and discovered a new to me spindle nut. It is one nut that keys to the spindle.
So my normal procedure wouldn't work. ( the same as most of you have posted)
So I started looking around and found several sources that said torque it to 50 for final, and if it won't hit the key, go tighter! That source was bulavista's bible.
So I am confused..... I have seen this exact procedure for big trucks and trailers though.

What do you all say! Sorry if this is too far off topic.
 
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