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Beefing up 10 Bolts for 35's or 37's

handloader90

handloader90

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I want to run 35's or 37's on:
10 Bolt/10 Bolt or 10 Bolt/12 Bolt or D44/12 Bolt.

I currently have a D44/12 Bolt, but I want to pick up a spare set of axles to work on.

I know a D60/14BFF setup is the way to go, but I've looked high and low and haven't ran into exactly what I want. I can find the setups mentioned above a dime a dozen and for next to nothing

My trucks a daily driver and it won't be seeing rocks where I am, light bogging is the only thing I will do other than driving to and from work. I'm not very heavy on the throttle unless I'm passing someone.

What can I do to run one of those setups safely and not have to worry about breaking something every time I pull out of the driveway? I've read some threads on here about guys running 37's on 10 Bolts with success.

What gear ratio is going to be best for 35's
What gear ratio is going to be best for 37's

Run open, lockers in both, LSD in the rear???
 
Well I'm having a helluva time finding any 1 ton axles where I'm at. That's why I'm interested in beefing up some 1/2 Ton axles.

You mentioned D44/10 Bolt. Do you think that the best combo?
 
I wanna find a 14 bolt 6 lug in NC for $200 I'll be on my way to get it!!! I think 14 bolts are harder to find lately and decent price!
 
handloader90 said:
Well I'm having a helluva time finding any 1 ton axles where I'm at. That's why I'm interested in beefing up some 1/2 Ton axles.

You mentioned D44/10 Bolt. Do you think that the best combo?
Click to expand...

Think he meant a D44 or 10 bolt *front* and a 14-bolt rear, i.e. 3/4 ton combo. More of those available than the D60 setups.

If you get a 3/4 ton 4WD 14bff, it'll bolt right up (well, with a magic U-joint.)

The 1-ton 14bff is the same axle but would need the perches cut off & rewelded and the 2WD's have the shock mounts wrong.

Then the front, eh, you could put in chromoly axles (see below about $$), or just run as is. Note you will be changing to 8-lug and have to switch wheels.

Not a lot of strength in 6-lug / (1/2 ton) stuff and by the time you spend the (more than you think) money to upgrade 1/2-ton axles, you could have just gone big to begin with. A polished turd is still, basically, a turd.

-- A
 
He is saying D44 or 10 bolt for the front. 14 bolt for the rear. The tire sizes you are talking about you can make a set of 3/4 ton axles last a long time.
 
And to the rest of your questions: Gear ratio will depend on your transmission (TH350, TH700R4, or manual?)

Locker/whatever will depend on what axles you get. IMO the 14bff in the rear with the Detroit is stupid simple, ridiculously strong, do it once and forget it.

For the front, you have more options. Open might work well for you if you're not doing lots of technical rock crawling with one each front and rear wheel in the air. Past that it's almost more a matter of personal choice as to what type of traction aid.

-- A
 
As mentioned before I'm not finding anything in my area, 1 ton or 3/4 ton. There's a guy on CL selling a D60/14BFF for 3K or something like that and I don't have the funds for that setup.

I'm mainly interested on what I can do to make the 1/2 ton axles handle the large tires.
 
handloader90 said:
As mentioned before I'm not finding anything in my area, 1 ton or 3/4 ton. There's a guy on CL selling a D60/14BFF for 3K or something like that and I don't have the funds for that setup.

I'm mainly interested on what I can do to make the 1/2 ton axles handle the large tires.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's crazy money. You could at least re-do the outers on your front to 8-lug and do a 3/4 rear 14bff and call it good. Then you're just looking for a rear out of a mid-70's 3/4 Suburban or pickup, say, easier than finding a whole set that people think are made of gold.

Specifically to your question, you can do chromoly shafts and fancy hubs, and if anybody still makes them, a full-floating conversion in the rear.

The general wisdom is that 37"s will make the 1/2 ton axles cry, however, regardless, and you'll be out a bunch o' $$.

-- A
 
76zimmer said:
is this close to you?

http://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4472805583.html

http://evansville.craigslist.org/cto/4430180045.html
Click to expand...

The truck is around 1.5 hours away and the axles are around 2.5 hours away.

I would prefer to go ahead and get the 1 ton axles if I went ahead and upgrades axles.

This thread was just to test the waters and see if anybody is successfully running 1/2 tone axles with larger tires. It just seems like I could have a spare or two on hand in case something breaks and swap the spares under there and work on the broken ones.

I guess I'll keep my eyes peeled some more for some tons. I found a D70 SRW and a 14 BFF DRW at the junkyard yesterday or the day before. Don't want to go D70 cause of the aftermarket support and I'm not sure how hard it is to convert the 14BFF DRW over to SRW and if the width would match up to my truck.

The reason I'm asking this is because I'm searching for a frame rust free or light surface rust to sandblast and coat with Dupont Imron and do all ove my work on it and then throw the body on my truck onto it.
 
Is there a difference between the 3/4 ton and 1 ton 14BFF? Any visual means of identifying the differences?
 
handloader90 said:
Is there a difference between the 3/4 ton and 1 ton 14BFF? Any visual means of identifying the differences?
Click to expand...

No difference internally. A 14bff off a 1-ton is more likely to have numerically higher gearing (4.10:1 or 4.56:1) but that's not an absolute.

The spring perches are 42.5" center to center for 3/4, and 40.5" c-c for 1-ton.

-- A
 
Good! Thanks for the info!

I've got a lead on a set of CUCV axles D60/14BFF, the guys pretty close to me, he wants $1,400 and I don't have it right now, just moved across the country and the depleted my funds pretty good. I'm going to try and get something together and buy them.
 
I running a bone stock open 10 bolt up front. With 35 inch MTRs. The worst I've done is broke a hub lock going straight down a dirt road. And I have wheeled the crap out of it. From Moab to tuff truck races to XRRA courses.

So wheel it while you save up for the bigger axles.
 
It's not that 1/2 ton axles aren't strong enough for 35s, it's just that if/when they break, it's just not worth spending any money on 'em when parts to rebuild one would cost more than a 3/4 or 1 ton axle.

Having a spare set of axles is a sound strategy, but so is upgrading to stronger ones and not needing spares. FWIW, I had a helluva time finding my 1 ton axles too. I finally found a set of CUCV axles for the exact same price as what you mentioned , 1400.
 
Do you feel that the price justified the purchase? I understand that they're pretty much the best for our trucks, but man they just cost.
 
I don't regret it. 4.10-4.56 is about perfect for 35s and you get at least a rear locker with CUCV axles plus the massive strength difference. If you figured up changing gears and chromoly shafts etc for your 1/2 tons, you'll spend that much anyway. Based on what I found down here, 1400 is a fair price.

Just so you're aware though, you will have to relocate the spring perches and shock mounts on the rear.
 
It just depends on how you use your truck. Usually, regearing 1/2 ton axles will cost as much as a1 ton set with a decent gear ratio already in it. A 3/4 ton set should be barely more than a half ton set.
 
Not sure if this has really been stated clearly but the front axle a 10 bolt and a dana 44 are almost equal in strength. Either one of those front axles with good shafts should hold a front locker and 37s. It will not be unbreakable. Usually the cheapest option is 3/4 ton stuff. Other option if you want to stay 6 lug is a 14 bolt semifloat from a newer truck. All the shock mounts and perches need to be cut off and redone. This axle is also wider than a stock axle so turning radius will decrease slightly. I would not put a penny into your rear 10 bolt. Some have good luck with them. Its not worth the risk
 
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