Been a while... turning the K5 into a tow rig

[carpeonnel]

Haven't been on here in quite a while as I've gotten heavy into mudding ATVs (that and it's cheaper than breaking parts on my K5). I toyed with the notion of selling my K5 for a while and I've decided that I've done too much to my K5 to sell it after 10yrs of ownership, so now I'm gonna change a few things to make it tow better and wanted y'alls opinion. Plan is to fix the A/C, go thru all the window motors, redo seats, new dash, new carpet, andmake it comfortably tow up to 5K lbs without much issue

My stock TBI350 is getting tired and I've thought about buying like a long block 383 in the neighborhood of 300hp/400torque. I've also priced out some nice long block 350s with 300hp/340torque for about $500-600 less than that stroker. In y'alls opinion do you think the 350 would do the job equally as well for the less cash?

Second question: I will be getting rid of my 38s and dropping about 2-3 of lift and going to some 35-37in range tires to reduce some rotating mass, but who makes a solid 35-37in in all-terrainish type tire these days for a decent price?

Can't really change gear ratios as these 4.10s will have the motor wound up at 65mph since it has no overdrive and don't wanna go back to a 700r4 for towing

My K5 is still setup with 350TBI/SM465/205TS/HAD 1350 shafts/14b detroit and disc'd/d44/crossover steering/YJ shaft/etc...

If y'all have any more input or insight on some things to do to make it a reliable tow rig I would appreciate. CK5... best site on the net

 

[LT.]

Go for the 383 instead of the 350. Double check you cross-over steering linkage to make sure it will work with the lower lift. If I remember correctly there were a couple of different pitman arms for different lifts. 35's or 37's may be a little big still for towing the 5000 lbs you mentioned. Especially if you are on 15" wheels. There will be quite a bit of side wall that will still flex while loaded. If you are set on the tire size then see if you can find a load range D or E in a 17" wheel for less side wall flex. For an all terrain tire I like the traction of the BFG but I don't really care for the wear. You might be happier with a set of Toyo Open Country AT's. They will last longer but, in my opinion, they don't have as much traction as the BFG's. Toyo also makes load range D and E tires in the sizes you are looking for.

LT.

 

[carpeonnel]

yeah I was thinking about some 35s on 17in rims would do well. 5k would prob be max I'd ever tow as one of my riding buddies has a small camper that's around that weight. Most likely all I'll be towing is 2-3 large Arctic Cat wheelers on a trailer. But still 3 wheelers at 900lbs a piece + plus weight of trailer will prob be close to 4k if not more.

I'm pretty sure the pitman are will be fine as I still have a good bit of adjustment left in the joints but I'll double check that

 

[rjfguitar]

I'd rule out 37's and would be looking at a 16-18" wheel like mentioned. How much lift do you actually have or plan to have? I see you've changed the rear springs in your sig, but I'm not familiar at all with the 52/56 springs and shackle flips etc.... If you had stock 1/2ton springs I would recommend a 2.5" add-a-leaf to get some of your lift and it really helps stiffen up the rear suspension nicely, old stock 1/2ton springs can be pretty squishy.

I think a 350 is just fine, you're not trying to pull that much weight.

Remember that K5's don't make good tow rigs outside of your average bass boat or tent trailer. So don't get a trailer that is too long and make sure you load the trailer properly.

 

[carpeonnel]

Well I guess I have approx 7in of lift. Not real sure on amount of lift but if I lower it very much I have to cut my rear shaft down. The 56in rear springs I have are 3/4 7 leaf pack with an added leaf. So they're pretty stout. I also have a 2in block and a zero rate so plan is delete the 2in block out back and pull the add-a-leaf out of the 52in pack up front. Hopefully it'll sit level but might have to play with it a little.

Well my buddy's camper is the heaviest thing I might end up towing since he has the bigger trailer and a cummins so on far off rides plan is for him to tow (4) 4wheelers on his 20' dual axle trailer and I'll tow his 20' camper (I think it's 20. It's not all that big). But for the most part all I'll be towing is 1 or 2 wheelers on this side loading trailer

 

[zombie1969]

I got a turbo400 4.56 gears and 35s on 15s and pull a wood trl thats about 4k or more when loaded.I got a 6in lift 1/2 ton rear springs and an extra leaf.The slighty built 350 I have(guessing 350 hp) pulls ok but a 383 would be better.With the 4.10 gears you have Id rec 33s because I can still use a little more gear but dont want to tac to high on the hiway.

 

[dfl701]

how far do you have to tow? might look into a 6.2. its gonna get better mpg and its can handle a load like that no problem

 

[carpeonnel]

I got a turbo400 4.56 gears and 35s on 15s and pull a wood trl thats about 4k or more when loaded.I got a 6in lift 1/2 ton rear springs and an extra leaf.The slighty built 350 I have(guessing 350 hp) pulls ok but a 383 would be better.With the 4.10 gears you have Id rec 33s because I can still use a little more gear but dont want to tac to high on the hiway.

What kind of rpms are you turning right now with that setup? the 400 should be 1:1 just like my sm465 in top gear so just wondering. I know I'm turning about 2500ish on the hwy at 70ish right now with these 38s. I don't know if I can drop enough lift out for it to look normal with 33s lol, but I'm worried I'll be turning like 3200 RPMs at 65-70 with 33s. Doubt I'm gonna pay for new gears as I'd just put that money into a stronger motor.

Just checked a gear calculator and looks like with 35s I'll be turning about 2700 at 70mph with should be a decent rpm with a 383 I would think. I just don't want it to be strung out where I can't drive it on the interstate

 

[clandr1]

What about doing a diesel motor swap?

 

[4xcrazy]

My Burb has a 4" lift, 35" BFG AT's on 17" 2nd gen H2's, i have pulled some pretty decent weight with this truck in this setup, so much so, i had too much weight on the tongue at one point, actually giving me a "light feeling" on the steer tires, had to move the vehicle i was hauling back several inches on the trailer.

It pulled fine for being so heavy, i like the wheelbase for heavier towing as well. I DO have the 700r4 though, and mostly daily drive mine, but yeah, while towing that much weight, it was in 3rd the whole time (by choice) and at a slower, safer speed. It did fine.

My 35's and 4.10 gears actually do ok on the highway 65-70 mph, rpms are up around that 2500-2700 range (in 3rd) if i remember correctly, honestly though i know i need at least a 4.56 gear.

I recently moved across country, with a brand new roller 355 and brand new, completely rebuilt (not just clutches) transmission, the trailer i was pulling i would estimate to have weighed about your 4000lb claim, once i got here, i took the fuel receipts, gallons used, miles traveled and figured everything up, we drove at about 60 most of the way, i would guess a 53 mph average though, and got about a 12 mpg average outta this thing... and 17 outta the 1/2 ton 4.3 Silverado that was following pulling about a 2000lbs trailer, and the bed loaded with stuff, we were heavy as i also had stuff stacked on the roof of the burb including 2 spare 35" bgf's on H2 rims.

Personally, i think you'll be fine with a fresh 350, or even that 383 if that's what you like, your gearing should be fine, just not going to be like a big new Diesel truck when pulling and you need to accept that, and just go with the flow and do what the truck is capable of, and be patient.
these are just my opinions, from personal experience with a burb, on a setup close to what sounds like you want to swap to.