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beginner help

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family-man

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williamsburg va
ok heres what i got: 87 blazer with 350 bored .30 over. 31x10.50x15 on it now. im trying to find out if i can go to 33's without lift. not trying to go mountain climbing or anything. beach driving, mostly road, possible minor off roading. anyother minor mods would be taken into consideration. also where do most get there tires from. not looking for super swampers or nothing just some good all terrain for a low price.
 
You can clear narrow 33's, on stock wheels, with very little to no trimming.

I would recommend narrow 33's, and zero rate add a leaf's front and rear. You'll need new ubolts also. For under $200, you'll have a little more room for those tires. http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero Rates.htm
or
http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=128

As far as tires, you can do well with used tires on craigslist if you are on a budget. Besides that, shop around locally. Sticking with 15" rims, or going to get different wheels? 15's are getting harder to find tires for.

Can't go wrong with a BFG AT.
 
family-man said:
probably should have mentioned it has new eagle alloys 15x8. so keeping those
Click to expand...

Any idea on backspacing? Hopefully, close to stock, or you will be more likely to clip your fender corners in the front when turning a larger tire.
 
In the front, you'll have to trim the front corner of the fender, and probably smash the rear corner flush against the firewall.

It will probably still rub, but not bad. I'm running 33x12.50's, and rub when during with teh zero rate setup, front/rear. But, 12.50's are wider, AND i'm running 16x10's.

You can always throw the 33's on there, see how bad it is, then add the zero rate's. Personally though, i'd add the zero rates, and go from there.
 
looks like the offspacing is -30mm that sound right? i think i may just leave it with the 31's. i have three kids and a short wife that need to be able to get in it. plus im on a tight budget for the next 8 months
 
family-man said:
looks like the offspacing is -30mm that sound right? i think i may just leave it with the 31's. i have three kids and a short wife that need to be able to get in it. plus im on a tight budget for the next 8 months
Click to expand...

i thought back spacing was measured in inches? i could be wrong i've never dealt with it tho since my truck came with a 4'' lift and i only run 33's.
 
I'm running 15x8 with 3.75" backspacing and 33x12.5 Trxus tires with no lift. It really didn't rub untill I removed the sway bar.

cellpic 5.jpg

cellpic 4.jpg
 
ok got some big questions for yall. first. upon acceleration the truck shakes from about 15-35? after that it will smooth out unless i really get on it. engine and trans were rebuilt bout 20k miles ago. second as i push the gas pedal i hear a whine from the the back. i know chevy is notorious for loud fuel pumps but not sure if it should be that loud. anybody have an idea?
 
Check the U-joints on the rear driveshaft. Does it clunk at all going into gear?

Rene
 
previous owner just replaced the rear u-joint. what should i check for. i guess maybe it clunks a little. oh one other thing i noticed was the steering shaft feels loose, i can move the steering wheel in a circle (not turning)
 
OK, I figured I'd start with the simple common stuff...

Have you pulled the cover off the rear diff yet? You're looking for any chunks in the gear lube. If no chunks, is the lube kind of silvery looking? That would indicate bearing failure.

How much play is in the steering? 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn?

For this you'll need a helper capable of turning the wheel back and forth. Chock the wheels (rear) and as your helper turns back and forth look at each part of the steering system. Start at the top and watch the steering shaft. Shouldn't be any movement other than rotational. Look at the steering box...it should be rigidly mounted to the frame. Now under the truck, drag link end at the pitman arm...should be no deflection, same for the drag link at the steering arm. Steering arm should be no movement on the knuckle.

Now look at the tie rod ends...again you're looking for a deflection movement and there should not be any.

Now watch the springs themselves. Any weird movement at the front hangers? How about at the rear hangers? It's common for hanger bolts to be sheared...

That ought to narrow things down for you. If not we'll go from there.

Rene
 
the play im talking about isnt turning play (which it does have a little) but more of up and down movement as well as side to side. also which problem are u refering to about the u joints.
 
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tRustyK5 said:
...
How much play is in the steering? 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn?...
Click to expand...

Rene, sounds like he's gonna need the steering column fix.

Here are some pics, but I can't find the full writeup... the post I linked doesn't go deep enough into the column (where you need to pull the pivot points...the fun part...).
 
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Yes, after some clarification it sounds like the wobbly column. :doah:

Rene
 
im gonna check the fluid but the whine seems to be only when i press the gas pedal. harder i press the higher pitch it seems to get. does that give any other ideas?
 
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