bending tube for my cage, Progress update pics 1/14/08 post 20/21

[rdn2blazer]

I bent the 2nd hoop pictured first. You can see I matched the hard tops angle, on the angled portion of the hoop. I just didn't like the gap from the side it had. I will use it as the rear hoop at the back of the bed. Its a good hoop I just felt I wanted as much head room as I could get.

I bent the 2nd hoop up and lessened the angle to the top bend. You can see it comes closer to the radius in the hard tops radius. Is exactly what I wanted, came out perfect. Even put a 6 Deg bend on center of the top bar to match the arc of the hard top.

I will bring them down just enough to get padding on the bars, right now theres about 1/8th to 1/4 between the hard top and top of the 2 hoops. I was shooting for 63 1/2 in out side to out side, That gives me about a tight Thumbs width from the inner bed rail edge. Both are exactly 63 1/2. As I said only difference is the front one pictured has a wider top bar span then the one behind it for a bit more head room. Tomorrow I will be bending the door bars.

Is all 2" X .125 wall DOM USA Domestic tube.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Looks good so far. keep us updated as the progress continues.

 

[chevy wrangler]

nice job!
i wish i could do that

 

[reddog64]

make sure it's mounted to the frame if you want it to do more than just look good...

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

make sure it's mounted to the frame if you want it to do more than just look good...

That's not true at all.

 

[reddog64]

That's not true at all.

OK...

Let's test it on your ride...
cause i'm not about to roll mine down a hill with it bolted to the floor boards...

hmmm... 16 guage sheet metal...

3/8 inch frame...

 

[Randy92782]

How much would you charge to do mine???


Looks good man!!

 

[rdn2blazer]

make sure it's mounted to the frame if you want it to do more than just look good...

I am bolting to the body AND tying to the frame aswell.

 

[Hossbaby50]

That's not true at all.

I have to agree. Best case scenario is tied to both but for most people a good cage bolted to the body is more then they will ever need. My cage is currently only bolted to the body. I have an 8pt cage that will soon be a 10pt. Sure, most roll bars are marginal at best but a cage with decent design is MUCH safer then nothing.

Harley

 

[rdn2blazer]

I have to agree. Best case scenario is tied to both but for most people a good cage bolted to the body is more then they will ever need. My cage is currently only bolted to the body. I have an 8pt cage that will soon be a 10pt. Sure, most roll bars are marginal at best but a cage with decent design is MUCH safer then nothing.

Harley

yup Harley exactly right, besides Im not just bolting to the corigated bed floor or a single sheet metal thickness area. Im bolting to double or even tripple walled structure of the body. Also putting spacers under the mounting plates if I bolt to an area of corigated bed floor so it does not smash the corigated sheet metal flat.

Also using more then just the floor to mount to. using verticle wall and other structure aswell. Im confident my cage will be stout and well designed, and have lots of Triagulation. I tend to build overkill.

 

[RockinChevy]

I like how you are considering the extra headroom. I thought about this some time ago but ditched it because I didn't think it made sense, like it was a bit more frustration for the fabricator. But after seeing how your tubes are that close to the hard top, I see it's not that much more difficult anyhow. Just a bit more double checking the measurements.
I'm following all of the roll cage builds and stirring up ideas in my small brain to make mine work out right the first time. Because I don't want to go back just to cut and relocate this hoop, or move this dash bar further back so the sun doesn't reflect off the aluminum dash panel, etc.... I admire those who bend and weld, I have neither skill.
Keep up the good work, man!

 

[rdn2blazer]

I like how you are considering the extra headroom. I thought about this some time ago but ditched it because I didn't think it made sense, like it was a bit more frustration for the fabricator. But after seeing how your tubes are that close to the hard top, I see it's not that much more difficult anyhow. Just a bit more double checking the measurements.
I'm following all of the roll cage builds and stirring up ideas in my small brain to make mine work out right the first time. Because I don't want to go back just to cut and relocate this hoop, or move this dash bar further back so the sun doesn't reflect off the aluminum dash panel, etc.... I admire those who bend and weld, I have neither skill.
Keep up the good work, man!

Thanks man. I still need to bring it down about 1/4 to 1/2 in for roll cage padding but thats it. If the pad squishes a bit from the top contacting it thats fine. I want max head room. You just have to be a bit more careful and really figure out your bend so you maximize the space and get the bends right. I have Bend-Tech softwear but Im not using it, I have not calibrated the software yet. I just want to do some calculations and start bending, not sit at the computer drawing a bunch of crap up.

I started my door bars today but have no pics yet.

 

[83k5blzrbob]

Looks Great!

Keep up the good work and keep us posted on the progress.

Bob

 

[4X4HIGH]

OK...

Let's test it on your ride...
cause i'm not about to roll mine down a hill with it bolted to the floor boards...

hmmm... 16 guage sheet metal...

3/8 inch frame...

Let me know when you find ANY vehicle with a frame that is 3/8" thick. That will be the heaviest vehicle ever. I'll bet that GM frames are no more than 3/16" thick, probably between 1/8"-3/16".

 

[reddog64]

Smart man, it makes a big difference...

It does look very good, excellent math skills are needed to properly bend pipe...
and patience...

Keep it up, your be proud to say you did it on your own!

 

[reddog64]

Let me know when you find ANY vehicle with a frame that is 3/8" thick. That will be the heaviest vehicle ever. I'll bet that GM frames are no more than 3/16" thick, probably between 1/8"-3/16".

And where is your cage mounted to? You have a nice looking exo cage...

frame or sheet metal?

I guessed on the frame thickness... either way it's alot stronger than sheet metal.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

OK...

Let's test it on your ride...
cause i'm not about to roll mine down a hill with it bolted to the floor boards...

hmmm... 16 guage sheet metal...

3/8 inch frame...

Yeah, the sheetmetal is thinner than the frame. The idea is to distribute the load which is why cages that are bolted to the body have plates at each attachment point. If its designed right, the body won't fail.


For the record all of my tube is welded to the frame but mines more of a chassis than just a cage.

 

[reddog64]

I'm sure a functional cage can be build that is attatched to the body. I would just feel safer knowing that more than a thin piece of metal is supportign the weight of my truck when it flops up side down...

I give him props for building his own cage, I personally know i will take mine some where and build it with someone who has done it before, mainly cause i lack a place to do it.

Yeah i dont see you daily driving yours that much...

Looks good, keep it up!

 

[4X4HIGH]

And where is your cage mounted to? You have a nice looking exo cage...

frame or sheet metal?

I guessed on the frame thickness... either way it's alot stronger than sheet metal.

I don't have a cage or an exo cage. Once i pay some bills off i'll be buying the JD2 bender and then i'll build a cage. When i do it will bolt to the sheet metal with mounting plates and also be attached to the frame.

 

[rdn2blazer]

Made some progress this past weekend. I am running two top front to back stringers. I think the span from front hoop to the back hoop is kinda long for a single tube, so having two stringers tied to each other will give alot of extra strength. I like the flat top look when the stringer tube is located at the top of the bend radius, but then it looks narrow from a top view. This also allows the bend of the hoop to "catch" on things. With a side tube added at the lower hoop bend radius the cage should ramp of rock walls, trees, what not. atleast that my theory .

Before anyone says "you need triangulation" Im nowhere near done. This is just the start. Where the top of the "A" Triangulation is I will put a tube to the top most stringer, then I will put an "X" and a "+" in the Rectangle over head. I have gusset to add to. Then I will work on the front part of the cage, Door bars, dash area, seat frames for the driver/passenger, rear seats.

I have two MasterCraft Rubicons for Driver/Pass seats and two Corbeau Baja SS Ultra's for the rear seats. Even though my wheel wells are widened (One with green paint is done, need to do the other Black well) My two Baja SS's fit between the wheel wells.

On to the pics.