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Bent EZ Rides

blazerbones

blazerbones

1/2 ton status
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Mar 4, 2007
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Detroit... well almost
Hi all! Just got back from the sand dunes and a great time! While cruising the dunes during twilight I hit some humps/dips way too hard, overloading the front end and turning my front TuffCountryEZRides into a "W" shape:eek1:.

I hadn't moved my bumpstops down... so the springs could overtravel badly and permanently deform:doah:.

Anyway, since I loved the way they ride, i'd like to get a new set of TC EZRides and lower the bumpstops to try and protect them... but I'm thinking that I should get a stronger spring pack (HD?) as well due to the HEAVY burb + sand dunes combo. Based on previous experience, I'm sure I won't love the ride of HD springs.

Also, I'm going to be replacing the stock front bumper with a much heavier blazenoffroad bumper soon.

I'm looking for a recommendation which leaf spring direction I should go based on your guys experience.:ears::popcorn:
 
If you loved the ride and the travel of the springs I would get the same ones. Negative arching springs, especially if they bind due to too short of shackle will ruin them EVERY time...

Make sure your bumpstops are in the correct spot and that your shocks are up to the task of dampening the bumps for that heavy suburban. :waytogo:

Maybe even invest in some airbumps for the front for playing on the sand
 
Easy Rides even with a heavier front bumper, much heavier? I would have thought HDs but I have no experience with either. Just know if you go HD, you can always remove the little mightmouse spring on the bottom. That's the only difference between EZs and HDs.
 
Definately need to get the stops installed.

If your doing dunes and other stuff where there is a lot of motion at some speed involved the stops are a must have item.

The Burb has a fair amount of weight up on the front anyway and if you dive over a dune, its all coming down on the springs.

A Diesel up front or a Big block is going to make that landing even tougher on the springs.

My 89 K5 has the Rough country high arched springs and the stops were never dropped.

This is fine for a driver/look cool truck that does not see any serious bouncing.

You wont like the HD (stiff) springs much, especially out on the daily commute. :eek1:

Take a good look at the amount of travel that these springs can handle safely and then drop the stops.

If your not sure how much clearance to give between the stops and the axles, call the spring Mfg and ask them what they recommend.


Snowy
 
I have 4" TC EZRides in front. Once I put a Blazen Offroad bumper (125 lbs.) and a winch (90 lbs.) on it, the nose sat a little lower than it did before, like and inch almost. They ride good though. Never tried the HDs, but I would think they would ride okay as long as you had plenty of weight up front to tame them. There's a spring rate table under the Technical Articles on the CK5 home page that will give you an idea of how the two should compare as far as ride goes. Any Tuff Country springs are going to be better than Rough Country or Rancho as far as ride quality.
 
I'm going with the HD's... then take out the bottom leaf if needed. Good advice there guys.

I'll figure out what kind of funds I have for progressive bumpstops... not sure if I'll go airbumps yet or not, but that would be nice.

I'll post up when I get some results going.
 
ezoliver said:
Negative arching springs, especially if they bind due to too short of shackle will ruin them EVERY time...
Click to expand...
It's not the negative arching that causes the problem, but the binding can. After all, the spring steel doesn't "know" when it has transitioned from a positive to negative arch. It only knows how far it has moved from its set-point. What about all the stock front springs that are nearly flat? Oh no! First pothole and the spring is ruined.

To prevent the axle from traveling too far, just put on bigger tires and let the fenders do the work :whistle:
 
Blue85 said:
It's not the negative arching that causes the problem, but the binding can. After all, the spring steel doesn't "know" when it has transitioned from a positive to negative arch. It only knows how far it has moved from its set-point. What about all the stock front springs that are nearly flat? Oh no! First pothole and the spring is ruined.

To prevent the axle from traveling too far, just put on bigger tires and let the fenders do the work :whistle:
Click to expand...

I could have worded that better...

I was not talking about stock springs, I know they pretty much are designed for a negative arch upon deflection. I was talking about negative arching most normal lift springs (of 4" or more) will usually end in fail... I know it's the amount of travel that actually causes the problem of fatigue. Been there. Seen it many times.

Who the hell still runs stock springs on this board? :D
 
You'll be much happier with the 4" lift. I don't remember how these trucks rode when they were new, but when I got my truck it still had the stock negative arch two leaf spring packs on the front and didn't ride too good. Kept bottoming out and letting my feel every little bump. It rides better now since I put the 4" lift springs on.
 
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