bent frame

[supernaut]

I pulled my th350 and got it rebuilt. putting it back in has turned bad. The crossmember (the one that the adapter mounts to) bolt holes don't line up with the holes on the frame rail. I looked closer and just behind the rear shackle on the front leaf spring the frame is bent upwards, probably a good inch on the driver's side and just a nudge on the passenger. I figure the frame "settled" while i had the trans out for a week. I managed to solve the problem by using the hi-lift jack as a jaw spreader to widen the frame rails while i bolted the cross member up.

Of course now the adapter doesn't line up to the cross member when bolted to the trans.. Rather than the two cross member to adapter bolt holes being off side to side like on the frame they are off about front to back about 1/2 inch.

So i'm currently modifying the metal clad rubber mounts with a serrated kitchen knife and i have a date with my makita and drill bits in a bit here. . This Sucks. I'll probably get it together here in a few days, I'm moving next weekend, so i have to get it driveable for now.

After a few other things I plan on taking it to an auto body shop that does frame straightening and seeing if they can bend the rails back out to true, or close enough. I got wind that the original owner (i am told i am the 3rd) laid it on it's side on the pavement at some point. Maybe that is part of the reason the frame is bent. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? I haven't wheeled the truck before, but that is the plan after I finish fixing it up. I imagine with all the frame flexing involved with wheeling that others have experienced similar problems?

Anyone?



2" lift
33"x12.5 super swamps
'75 k5 blazer
350 engine
th350 trans
np203 tcase (holy crap was that thing heavy coming out...)
and some other stuff non essential to this problem

 

[MNorby]

mine was bent right in front of the front shakles and the frame pointed up. The truck was totalled shortly after I bought it and got rear ended. I spliced in a new section of rear frame at the front spring hanger on the rear end to fix the bulk of the frame prob and welded up the crack in front of the front shakles but recently the welds broke and the frame horns were pointing up more. I chained the truck down on a trailer front and back then put the porta-power under the bend and straightened it then welded the grack and ground smooth and plated with a peice of 1/4" 2" strap 12" long on each side. Still not perfect straight but tons better. Doesn't sound quite the same prob as yours but maybe you could straighten with a jack then plate it under stress.

 

[ryoken]

take it to a reputable body shop with a good frame machine... price might not be too bad if they can do it in a couple quick pulls... fun toy to play with..

 

[k5freak44]

take it to a reputable body shop with a good frame machine... price might not be too bad if they can do it in a couple quick pulls... fun toy to play with..

they are pretty fun, the one our shop at school has is a litte bigger then the one in that pic tho

 

[supernaut]

adapter mounted.

Thanks for the suggestions! I think i'll opt for a body shop with a frame rack for now. I would love to do the mods my self but my options are limited because of a lack of resources in the port a power, welding and trailer + chains realm.

I upgraded my one man modification machine with a hacksaw and the adapter is now bolted to the crossmember. After I get the frame straightened i'll try those pimpin' polyurethane mounts to replace my modified stock ones. I imagine that after the frame straightening I'll still be a bit off and thus returning the PU upgrades. oh well, i'll just replace my oil fouled stock ones with oe units and hacksaw them to death as well. I don't see any point in hacksawing the PU types when they cost about $50.00.

I fully expect crushing defeat pretty quick here. When i crank my Monstrously heavy np203 up into position and get the cross member under that, the frame rail bolt holes will probably be off like the front ones. Since that cross member has only 4 bolt holes on the bottom i hold out high hopes of drilling the frame rails out to accomodate for my new geometry. Soon i'll be almost done, just getting ready to bolt up the rear driveline and then I will know true pain. I'll bet that son of a bitch will be too god damn long now. Maybe that collapsing slip shaft design will soak up the excess; we'll see.

 

[blazinzuk]

Try tech schools that have a body program sometimes you can get stuff done for way cheap of course you are usually out of your rig for a couple of weeks

 

[K31Krazy]

Hmmmmm

Yup I just helped a bud O mine do the same damn thing.......freaky really......well if you can man handle the tranfer case like we did then you ROCK like a sock my friend . Ya know I think you are insane trying that stuff. now tomorrow I will be helping My other hommie put in his TC in his 84 crazy ass blazer with all sorts of lift and big ol rubber tires and grade 8 BOLTS alll around.... talk about insane yup . Oh well good times and lots of learning let me know how the new tranny works out maybe we can duel in the .25 mile talk to you all later and by the way this web site is pretty damn sweet.